Nestled in the arid landscape of the Jicarilla Mountains, White Oaks, New Mexico, rose from humble beginnings to become one of the territory’s most vibrant and notorious gold mining boomtowns. This captivating settlement, rich with the tales of prospectors, lawmen, and outlaws, etched its legacy into the rugged terrain of New Mexico history, becoming a quintessential example of the Old West’s rapid expansion and eventual decline. Before the influx of prospectors, the area was a hunting ground for Indigenous tribes, including the Piros and the formidable Apache, who were later displaced. The first European explorers, part of Don Juan de Oñate’s expedition in the late 1500s, dubbed this challenging land Malpais, or “badland.”
Centuries passed with sparse settlement until the discovery of glittering gold ignited a transformative era. The initial find is credited to John Wilson, a rumored escapee from a Texas prison, who shared his momentous discovery with friends Jack Winters and Harry Baxter. Wilson, seemingly indifferent to the allure of gold, soon departed, leaving the lucrative claims to his enthusiastic partners. As news of the gold strike spread like wildfire, a tent city rapidly materialized, marking the birth of a new mining camp. It was named White Oaks, after a small, picturesque stream adorned with white oak trees that meandered near the burgeoning community. By 1880, a post office was established, and the temporary tents and crude shacks began to yield to more permanent structures. This boomtown experienced explosive growth, swiftly supporting over 50 diverse businesses, including four newspapers, two hotels, three churches, a sawmill, a bank, an opera house, livery stables, and a significant number of the omnipresent saloons and gambling houses.
The Fortunes of Miners and the Legend of Madam Varnish
Prospectors Winters and Baxter secured their initial wealth by staking two significant claims: the Homestake Mine and the South Homestake Mine, situated on what became known as Baxter Mountain. Both men eventually sold their claims for an impressive $300,000 each, solidifying their place in White Oaks history. Like many boomtowns of its era, White Oaks was fertile ground for legends and colorful characters. Among the most memorable was Belle La Mar, famously known as “Madam Varnish.” Arriving from Missouri, La Mar quickly captivated the mining camp, which was “hungry” for the sight of women. She established the Little Casino Saloon, where she expertly dealt faro, roulette, and poker. Her skill at separating miners from their hard-earned gold quickly earned her the moniker “Madam Varnish,” as patrons quipped she was as “slick as varnish.” Despite the numerous losses sustained by miners at her establishment, the Little Casino reigned as the premier saloon in town. Other popular havens for miners included the Star Saloon and Opera House, offering a blend of entertainment and vice.
Billy the Kid’s Turbulent Visits to White Oaks
During its early, boisterous years, White Oaks often found itself frequented by the notorious outlaw, Billy the Kid. Although Billy’s primary haunt was Lincoln, located approximately 40 miles east, the Kid was known to associate with other roughnecks in the thriving mining camp, drawn by its abundance of saloons, gambling parlors, and prostitutes. Following the conclusion of the infamous Lincoln County War, Billy and his gang of “Rustlers” frequently targeted cattle in the White Oaks vicinity. After one particularly brazen attempted theft, the outraged citizens of White Oaks rallied, formed a posse, and pursued the gang. Despite a tense gunfight, the elusive thieves managed to escape, leaving the townspeople incensed.
Undeterred by the citizens’ clear message that their presence would not be tolerated, three of the outlaws, including Billy the Kid, Dave Rudabaugh, and Billy Wilson, boldly returned to White Oaks the very next evening. In a defiant display, Rudabaugh fired a shot at Deputy Sheriff James Redman merely “for fun.” The shot missed its mark, prompting Redman to seek cover. He was swiftly joined by a crowd of over 30 determined men who confronted the outlaws, successfully driving them out of town. The posse then tracked the rustlers to a ranch some 40 miles away, where another violent gunfight erupted, tragically resulting in the death of an innocent bystander. Once again, the outlaws escaped justice, leading to a reward being placed on Billy the Kid’s head, further solidifying his legend.
Mining Fortunes, Tragedies, and Enduring Structures
The settlement’s rapid growth necessitated the establishment of a vital stage line, connecting White Oaks to key destinations such as Fort Stanton, San Antonio, Roswell, and other New Mexico locales. By 1885, the more unruly elements had largely departed, and White Oaks transitioned into a community predominantly composed of law-abiding citizens. Tragedy, however, was no stranger to the mining town. In July 1891, a devastating fire at the South Homestake Mine claimed the lives of two miners. Despite this setback, mining operations persevered, and both Homestake mines continued to prosper for another five years.
By 1890, the town’s population had swelled to over 2,000. However, around the same time, the Homestake Mines began to show signs of depletion. Fortunately, White Oaks was saved from imminent decline by the development of another significant mine, the “Old Abe.” This new operation proved immensely profitable, employing a large workforce and boosting the town’s population to approximately 2,500. A memorable architectural landmark of this era is the two-story Victorian brick home built in 1893 by Watt Hoyle, one of the Old Abe Mine owners, for his fiancée. When she ultimately decided not to join him in White Oaks, the unfinished mansion, with its stately gables and sharply-pitched roof, earned the nickname “Hoyle’s Folly.” Despite local legends suggesting Hoyle leaped to his death from heartbreak, he actually lived in the house with his older brother and sister-in-law before selling it in the 1890s and relocating to Denver.
In March 1895, further tragedy struck when a fire in the Old Abe Mine claimed the lives of eight men. Yet, the mine continued to operate until shortly after the turn of the century, when dwindling deposits rendered it less profitable. A critical problem with the timbers in the shaft ultimately led to its permanent closure. The Old Abe Mine stood as the largest operation, employing around 40 workers and yielding a remarkable 45 to 50 tons of gold ore daily. Other notable mining operations in the area included the Robert E. Lee, the Smuggler, the Rita, Lady Godiva, Little Mack, Silver Cliff, and Miners Cabin. In total, the mines of White Oaks collectively produced an estimated $20 million in gold and other valuable minerals, a testament to its immense historical significance.
The Decline and Enduring Legacy of White Oaks
The prosperity of White Oaks was inextricably linked to its precious mineral wealth. As these resources became depleted, and with the railroad bypass in favor of nearby Carrizozo, the town experienced a dramatic decline. By 1910, the population had dwindled to merely 200 residents. Though significantly reduced in size, White Oaks persevered as a small trading center until the 1950s. Today, White Oaks stands as a captivating living ghost town, home to only a handful of residents. Nevertheless, many of its historic buildings remain, offering a tangible connection to its storied past. Visitors can still admire structures such as the Brown Store, the elegant Hoyle House, the 1895 brick schoolhouse, and numerous old residences, some of which were undergoing renovation as recently as 2008. White Oaks is conveniently located 12 miles northeast of Carrizozo, New Mexico, making it an accessible destination for those eager to explore its unique history. An unpaved but well-maintained forest road winds northwest out of White Oaks, leading visitors on a scenic route to the nearby ghost towns of Jicarilla and Ancho, further enhancing the journey through New Mexico’s captivating past.
The story of White Oaks, New Mexico, is a poignant reminder of the boom and bust cycles that shaped the American West. From its initial gold strike to its encounters with legendary figures like Billy the Kid, and its eventual transformation into a quiet, historic community, White Oaks offers a compelling glimpse into a bygone era. Its preserved buildings and lingering spirit invite modern visitors to step back in time and imagine the vibrant, challenging life of a true Old West boomtown.
