Nestled in Grant County, Kansas, Wagon Bed Spring, also known historically as Lower Spring or Lower Cimarron Spring, emerged as an indispensable lifeline along the treacherous Cimarron Cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail. This historic watering hole was celebrated by countless travelers as the first dependable source of fresh water after enduring the grueling 60-mile “Jornada” – a desert journey without water – that separated it from the Arkansas River in present-day Gray County. For centuries, Wagon Bed Spring played a crucial role in the movement of people and goods across the unforgiving plains.
Long before the first American traders ventured onto the Santa Fe Trail in 1821, this vital spring was a significant site for the area’s Native American populations. Archaeological findings, including Indian burials and turquoise beads, reveal extensive trade networks between the Plains and Pueblo Indians, highlighting the spring’s ancient importance. Evidence also points to Spanish expeditions from the 16th to 18th centuries stopping here, with fragments of metal horse bridle decorations and spur pieces having been discovered in the vicinity, underscoring its long-standing strategic value.
Early Documentation and the Perilous Jornada
The earliest documented account of the spring came from Joseph C. Brown, a civil engineer part of a government survey expedition from 1825 to 1827. Brown meticulously described it: “The spring is at the west edge of a marsh green with bull rushes. The marsh is north of the creek and near it. The spring is constant, but the creek is sometimes dry until you ascend it ten or twelve miles, where it will be found running.” This detailed description was a crucial guide for those navigating the harsh landscape.
The Santa Fe Trail traversed Grant County, heading southwesterly, crossing the North Fork of the Cimarron River before finally reaching the anticipated Lower Springs, later officially dubbed Wagon Bed Spring. The Jornada was a notorious section, often proving fatal for both men and animals during dry seasons, as wagon trains frequently ran out of water. The spring itself was not always easy to locate, adding to the travelers’ anxieties. For many miles, the trail snaked across flat prairie devoid of distinct landmarks, making navigation difficult. Mirages were common, often misleading weary travelers in a landscape where every direction seemed identical. Despite the frequent Indian attacks that plagued this segment, many resilient pioneers preferred the Cimarron Cutoff for its shorter, faster route compared to the Mountain Route of the Santa Fe Trail. The oasis also supported immense herds of buffalo and other prairie animals, providing much-needed fresh game for sustenance.
Tragedy and Encounters: Tales from the Trail
The Ill-Fated Journey of Jedediah Strong Smith
In 1831, the renowned fur trader and explorer Jedediah Strong Smith embarked on a fateful journey along the Santa Fe Trail. Having previously sold his stake in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, Smith, driven by an insatiable wanderlust, ventured into the Santa Fe fur trade with new partners. Leaving St. Louis, Missouri, in April 1831 with 74 men and 22 wagons, his caravan reached the Jornada by May. After three days without water, the party was desperate. Smith, accompanied by fellow mountain man Thomas Fitzpatrick, rode ahead in search of the spring. The two separated, and Smith was never seen alive again.
The caravan pressed on, hoping Smith would eventually rejoin them. Upon their arrival in Santa Fe, they encountered a Mexican merchant selling some of Smith’s personal effects. The merchant recounted that Smith had been ambushed and killed by 15-20 Comanche Indians near Wagon Bed Spring. His body, however, was never recovered, leaving his exact resting place a mystery.
Josiah Gregg’s Miraculous Encounter
Explorer and author Josiah Gregg, in his seminal work Commerce of the Prairies (first published in 1844), documented several incidents at or near the spring, including a memorable encounter with Native Americans. During Gregg’s initial trip across the Jornada, his party, largely unfamiliar with the trail, struggled to locate Lower Spring and became lost. To compound their predicament, they soon found themselves surrounded by Indians. Determined, they marched in military formation directly towards the Native Americans, accompanied by the rhythm of a drum and the melody of a fife. Surprisingly, the Indians did not attack; instead, they appeared amused and delighted. They subsequently guided the traders to the spring before escorting them safely onward, a testament to the unpredictable nature of frontier interactions.
The Mormon Battalion’s Arduous March
In September 1846, more than 500 soldiers of the Mormon Battalion established camp at Lower Cimarron Springs. These soldiers, members of the Church of Latter-Day Saints, had volunteered to serve in the Mexican-American War, pledging their military earnings to support the establishment of their church in Utah. Many had endured a grueling march on foot from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, before continuing towards California. Private Henry Standage of the Battalion vividly described this leg of the journey, writing: “We traveled this day across one of the most dreary deserts that ever man saw, suffering much from the intense heat of the sun and for want of water.”
A Bloody Battle and Military Presence
Years later, a group of traders arrived at the spring to discover it occupied by Arapaho warriors. To their astonishment, the Arapaho welcomed them into their camp, which was strewn with the bodies of fallen warriors. The Arapaho recounted a fierce battle with the Pawnee tribe ten days prior, which had resulted in the deaths of over 70 Pawnee warriors. The Arapaho insisted the traders camp with them on the battleground to partake in their victory celebrations, a stark glimpse into the tribal conflicts of the era.
However, such friendly encounters with Plains tribes were rare. 1864 proved to be the bloodiest year for Indian attacks along the Santa Fe Trail, with approximately 15 men killed near the spring within a two-week period. In response, General James H. Carleton, Commander of the Department of New Mexico, dispatched troops to the region that summer, stationing Major Joseph Updegraff and 100 men at the spring for sixty days. Over time, thousands of lead balls and empty cartridges discovered near the spring bore witness to the sustained military presence, as well as the activities of traders and buffalo hunters who frequently made the spring their temporary headquarters.
The Legacy and Modern Status of Wagon Bed Spring
The distinctive name Wagon Bed Spring originated later in the Santa Fe Trail’s history. To improve access to clean water, a wagon box was ingeniously set into the ground, allowing fresh, clear water to filter up through its bottom, effectively separating the water from sand and soil. This practical innovation cemented its enduring name.
Following the cessation of active travel along the Santa Fe Trail, extensive irrigation in the surrounding area led to the eventual drying up of the spring. Today, its precise original location remains somewhat uncertain, and little physical evidence endures of this once-famed camping spot. Nevertheless, discernible remnants of the old trail’s wheel ruts can still be observed nearby, a poignant reminder of its historic past.
The site received its first official recognition in 1906 when the Daughters of the American Revolution erected a marker. In 1961, the National Park Service further affirmed its significance by designating Wagon Bed Spring a National Historic Landmark. More recently, the Wagon Bed Spring Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail Association has established a detailed display near what is believed to be the original Lower Springs location, ensuring its history is preserved for future generations.
Wagon Bed Spring is situated on the north bank of the Cimarron River, approximately 11 and a half miles south of Ulysses, Kansas, and about half a mile west of U.S. Highway 25. The former townsite of Zionville also once stood in this vicinity.
The Enduring Legend of the Comanche Warrior
Beyond its rich historical tapestry, Wagon Bed Spring is also shrouded in an intriguing Native American legend. The story speaks of the ghost of a Comanche warrior who reputedly appears to guide visitors to a hidden treasure of gold. However, like many spectral tales, this one comes with specific conditions: the warrior is said to manifest only at midnight on a full moon, and some versions stipulate that the visitor must be entirely alone. One account tells of a skeptical visitor who fulfilled these conditions, only for the warrior to fail to appear. Disgusted, he returned to his truck. As he began to drive away, he glanced in his rearview mirror and was astonished to see a warrior leaping from a horse directly into the bed of his pickup. Yet, upon turning around, nothing was there. Whether one chooses to believe it or not, such tales add to the mystique and allure of this extraordinary historical landmark.
