Prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking grandeur and profound history of Rocky Mountain National Park, a true jewel of north-central Colorado. Spanning 415 square miles of unparalleled natural beauty, this iconic park invites visitors to explore spectacular mountains, ancient forests, and abundant wildlife. From the soaring heights of over 100 peaks exceeding 11,000 feet, including the formidable 14,259-foot Longs Peak, to the engineering marvel of Trail Ridge Road – North America’s highest continuously paved highway – Rocky Mountain National Park offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of the American West.
Ancient Footprints and Early Explorers
The story of Rocky Mountain National Park begins long before its official designation, with evidence of human presence dating back approximately 11,000 years. As the vast glaciers receded from the Rocky Mountains, Paleo-Indians ventured into these lands, initially hunting mammoths and later adapting to hunt bison, elk, and bighorn sheep as the climate evolved. The Ute Indians were among the first modern peoples to inhabit portions of the park, utilizing its fertile valleys during summer and seeking lower elevations to escape the harsh winter conditions. The Arapaho also held significant cultural ties to this majestic region.
The early 1800s saw the arrival of European-American explorers and mountain men. Figures such as Louis Vasquez and Andrew Sublette frequented the area, engaging in fur trapping and trade with indigenous tribes. In 1820, Stephen H. Long led the first official expedition, bestowing his name upon the prominent Longs Peak, though his party deliberately avoided the most rugged terrain of the future park. Subsequent expeditions, including those led by General Henry Dodge in 1835 and John C. Fremont in 1842, further documented the region.
Pioneering Spirit: Joel Estes and the Birth of Estes Park
One of the earliest permanent American settlers was Joel Estes, whose pioneering spirit led to the naming of Estes Park. In 1859, while following an old Indian trail from Fort Lupton, Estes and his son Milton discovered the verdant valley that would become their home. “The very place I have been seeking. Here, I will make my home,” he declared, captivated by the scenery. By 1860, he had laid out claims, and by 1863, his family settled year-round, encouraged by the Homestead Act of 1862, which spurred further settlement in the area.
Gold Fever and Fading Mining Dreams
The allure of the 1859 Pikes Peak gold rush drew prospectors across Colorado, with some venturing into what is now Rocky Mountain National Park. While mines like the Eugenia on Longs Peak yielded little, the western slope of the Continental Divide offered a glimmer of hope. In 1879, Joe Shipler discovered silver on a mountain now bearing his name, attracting financiers from Fort Collins who established Lulu City. Named after a financier’s daughter, Lulu City boasted 40 cabins and several businesses by 1881, even spawning a nearby “Dutchtown” due to cultural conflicts. However, the low-quality silver and high operating costs soon made mining unprofitable. By 1885, Lulu City was largely abandoned, though Joe Shipler stubbornly continued his solitary pursuit for three more decades.
Scientific Expeditions and Famous Climbers
The late 19th century also brought significant scientific exploration. In 1869, the Hayden and Powell expeditions of the United States Geological Survey traversed the region. Ferdinand Vandeveer Hayden surveyed overland from Denver, while John Wesley Powell aimed to map the Colorado River from its headwaters. Both parties achieved ascents of Longs Peak. Powell’s climb gained public attention through the reporting of William Byers of the Rocky Mountain News, who championed the area’s beauty. Notably, Anna Dickinson, part of Hayden’s party, became the first Euro-American woman to summit Longs Peak. Later, Englishwoman Isabella Bird’s climb of Longs Peak, along with her reputed romance with the colorful local character “Rocky Mountain Jim” Nugent, added to the lore of Estes Park. Nugent was famously at odds with dude rancher Griff Evans, who had acquired Joel Estes’ former homestead. During the 1870s, as interest grew, the region attracted visitors from across America and abroad. However, efforts by wealthy Irishman Thomas Whyndham-Quin, the fourth Earl of Dunraven, to acquire vast tracts for a private hunting paradise were ultimately thwarted by local protests, ensuring much of the land remained accessible.
The Grand Ditch and Water Management
As settlement expanded, the scarcity of water became a pressing concern. Beginning in 1890, the ambitious Grand Ditch project was initiated to divert water from the Never Summer Range’s streams and creeks for eastern plains farmers near Greeley and Fort Collins. This 14.3-mile-long ditch carried water over the Continental Divide at La Poudre Pass (10,175 feet), channeling it into the Cache La Poudre River. Construction continued until 1936, a testament to early efforts to manage the challenging mountain environment.
From Ranches to Resorts: The Rise of Tourism
The turn of the 20th century marked a significant shift in the region’s economy. Landowners realized the greater profitability of catering to “dudes” (tourists) rather than livestock. Abner Sprague, who first surveyed the Estes Valley in 1868, established a successful lodge in Moraine Park by the late 1870s. Alongside his wife, Alberta, Sprague offered lodging and guided excursions, eventually selling his share to his wife’s cousin, James Stead, and establishing a new lodge in Glacier Basin. Here, he dammed a creek to create a fish pond, now known as Sprague Lake, a popular destination for anglers and visitors alike, though Sprague’s original buildings no longer stand.
The Stanley Hotel and Elite Escapes
The crisp Colorado air, believed to offer relief for respiratory illnesses, drew many to the mountains. Among them was Freelan O. Stanley, whose enchantment with the area led him to finance a new road from Loveland and construct the magnificent Stanley Hotel. His innovative Stanley Steamer automobiles became integral to tourism, with the Estes Park Transportation Company ferrying visitors and freight from train stations. In the early 1900s, visiting Estes Park was largely an elite activity. Beyond the Stanley Hotel, numerous other lodges like the Elkhorn, Baldpate, Moraine Park Lodge, and Horseshoe Inn dotted the landscape. Moraine Park even functioned as a small town with its own post office and various services, highlighting the burgeoning tourist industry.
Enos Mills: The Father of Rocky Mountain National Park
The vision for preserving this natural wonder truly gained momentum through the tireless efforts of Enos Mills. Arriving from Kansas in 1884 at age 16, a sickly Mills found his health and purpose amidst the Longs Peak area. He climbed Longs Peak over 250 times and, inspired by naturalist John Muir, became a prolific writer and vocal activist for conservation. His 14 books celebrated the Longs Peak area, and his Longs Peak Inn, established in 1901, welcomed “city folk” to experience the rustic beauty. Mills joined other lodge owners and preservationists in lobbying Congress, championing the idea of a national park, a movement that had been building since the “closing of the Frontier” in the 1890s.
The Birth of a National Treasure
After years of dedicated advocacy by Enos Mills and various organizations, overcoming opposition from mining, logging, and agricultural interests, President Woodrow Wilson officially signed the Rocky Mountain National Park Act on January 26, 1915. This landmark legislation protected the lands from further settlement and hunting, forever preserving its natural splendor for future generations. As Enos Mills presciently stated:
