Embark on a journey back to the 19th century and explore the Santa Fe Trail’s lesser-known but vital passage through Oklahoma. While brief, this historic 46-mile stretch of the Cimarron Route through modern Cimarron County played a crucial role in connecting Missouri to Santa Fe, shaping the destiny of the American West. This perilous path, though shorter, presented unique challenges from scarce water to the constant threat of Native American encounters, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the souls of those who traversed it.
Oklahoma’s Segment of the Santa Fe Trail
The Santa Fe Trail primarily followed two major branches, with only the Cimarron Route crossing into Oklahoma’s panhandle. This route, established by William Becknell in 1822, quickly became the preferred path for approximately 75% of trail traffic due to its shorter distance, cutting travel time by ten days. However, its efficiency came at a cost, demanding resilience against the harsh, semi-arid plains and the ever-present danger of raids by tribes like the Kiowa, Ute, Comanche, and Apache, who also utilized the trail for trade.
An alternate path, the Aubry Cutoff, also touched Oklahoma. Starting near Fort Aubrey in Kansas, it crossed the Arkansas and Cimarron Rivers before rejoining the main trail near Cold Spring Campground, northwest of Boise City. This cutoff, developed by Francis X. Aubry in 1850, offered a better-watered, though slightly longer, alternative to the dreaded “Jornada.”
The Perilous Jornada: A Test of Endurance
The journey to the next reliable water source, often 50 to 60 miles from the Arkansas River to the Cimarron River, was known as the Jornada. This stretch was feared for its poor grass, scant water, and the high risk of Indian attacks, often necessitating U.S. Army escorts. Wagon trains, sometimes four to six vehicles abreast, cut deep ruts into the earth, some of which are still visible today, especially after an unusually heavy rainfall in 1834 cemented their tracks.
Key Historic Sites Along the Oklahoma Trail
As travelers pushed through Oklahoma, several points became critical for survival, rest, and defense.
Willow Bar Crossing
Located on the Cimarron River, Willow Bar Crossing was a significant campsite marked by willow trees and a sandbar. It was here, in July 1831, that a wagon train faced an attack from an estimated 100 warriors. Though no casualties were reported, such skirmishes became common, highlighting the dangers pioneers faced. Today, no physical evidence of the crossing remains, with the river having reclaimed its historic features.
Wolf Mountain
A prominent landmark between Willow Bar and Upper Spring, Wolf Mountain served as another popular, yet vulnerable, camping spot. A marker at the site commemorates a devastating attack by Ute Indians, where approximately 20 wagons were burned. Artifacts like charred wagon parts and iron-rimmed wheels were later uncovered, painting a vivid picture of the trail’s brutal history.
Upper Flag Spring
This beautiful setting, nestled beside a rocky hill and a pond, offered a reliable source of fresh water and a crucial campsite. Upper Flag Spring marked the point where the trail departed the immediate course of the Cimarron River, and like many other points, it too experienced its share of conflicts.
Cold Spring and Autograph Rock
A year-round water source protected by high cliffs, Cold Spring Creek was an invaluable oasis. It became a highly favored camping spot, and the nearby sandstone bluffs, known as Autograph Rock, bear witness to countless travelers who carved their names between 1850 and 1865. These inscriptions, left by soldiers, teamsters, and gold seekers, offer a tangible link to the past. Visitors can still arrange visits to Autograph Rock, a privately owned site, through the Cimarron Heritage Center.
Camp Nichols
The only military establishment on the Santa Fe Trail in Oklahoma, Camp Nichols was founded by Colonel Kit Carson in 1865. Occupied for just a few months, its troops protected travelers on both the Cimarron and Aubry cutoffs. Though the site is now private and inaccessible, impressive wagon ruts can still be observed nearby, a half-mile south of the fort’s ruins.
Cedar Spring and Carrizozo Creek
Serving as the water source for Camp Nichols and trail travelers, Cedar Spring is near the fort site. The canyon walls of Carrizozo Creek also hold carved names, including those from the Penrose Expedition, famously caught in a blizzard here in 1868.
Conclusion
The Oklahoma segment of the Santa Fe Trail, though small, was a crucible where pioneers, traders, and Native Americans intersected, leaving behind a rich tapestry of struggle and survival. Today, the enduring remoteness and untouched landscapes of Cimarron County provide a unique opportunity for modern adventurers to connect with the past, to walk the same ground, and to feel the echoes of the historic journey that forged a nation. These preserved sites offer a powerful reminder of the trail’s challenges and the unwavering spirit of those who braved its path until the railroad’s arrival in the 1870s.
