The Santa Fe Trail in Pawnee County, Kansas, represents a crucial segment of America’s historic westward expansion, presenting early travelers with significant choices and formidable natural challenges. This vital corridor of the Santa Fe Trail, traversing the heart of present-day Pawnee County, compelled pioneers to navigate between the resource-rich “Wet Route” and the more direct, albeit water-scarce, “Dry Route.”
This section of the Santa Fe Trail in Pawnee County extended southwest from the iconic Pawnee Rock at Ash Creek Crossing towards Fort Dodge, serving as a critical artery for trade and migration. Near the modern-day city of Larned, the trail diverged into three primary paths, with various branches connecting to key destinations like Dodge City, Kansas. These routes included the “Wet Route” (also known as the River Road Crossing) on the southern edge of contemporary Larned, a distinct “Dry Route” crossing on the western boundary of the present Larned State Hospital grounds, and a third, presumably later-established stage line crossing, situated approximately half a mile east of what is now the Fort Larned National Historic Site.
The Wet Route in Pawnee County
The Wet Route, renowned for its ample grazing and reliable water sources crucial for large numbers of livestock, closely followed the winding course of the Arkansas River. From Larned, this path mirrored U.S. Highway 56 southwest towards present-day Kinsley, Kansas, and continued along the Arkansas River to Dodge City. Beyond Dodge City, it became known as the “Mountain Route,” stretching westward towards Bent’s Fort in Colorado. This route was often preferred by large wagon trains seeking sustenance for their teams.
The initial significant stop along the Wet Route was Ash Creek Crossing, located about five miles southwest of Pawnee Rock. Although not particularly difficult to traverse, this crossing naturally evolved into a favored campsite for weary trail travelers. Its historical significance was later obscured when, in 1947, a local farmer filled in the crossing to expand his agricultural land.
Approximately six miles further along the trail, pioneers arrived at Sibley’s Camp, near modern-day Larned, Kansas. This historic site is where George Sibley’s United States Survey team established camp on August 31, 1825, during their pivotal Santa Fe Trail Survey Expedition. Today, the campsite’s legacy is preserved at 502 West 2nd Street.
Continuing along the north bank of the Arkansas River, travelers faced one of the most arduous obstacles: the Pawnee Fork Crossing. Situated near the present-day U.S. Highway 56 bridge over the Pawnee River, the original site has been altered by railroad and highway construction. However, the remnants of its steep banks still bear witness to its formidable nature. Historically, the east bank soared 20-30 feet above the water, while the west bank, though less precipitous, still demanded additional men and teams to assist wagons in their ascent, highlighting the extreme effort required to traverse this section of the Santa Fe Trail.
The Wet Route extended to Coon Creek Crossing, located about 1 ½ miles west of Garfield, Kansas, on the north side of U.S. Highway 56, east of the Coon Creek Bridge. This crossing presented its own challenges, sometimes proving difficult and often being a site of hostile Native American activity, as evidenced by nearby battle sites. Remarkably, wagon ruts from this era are still discernible on the creek’s north bank.
Beyond Coon Creek Bridge, about four miles further, was Plain Camp. This site, now marked for its historical significance, was aptly named for its lack of distinguishing natural features, serving as a simple, unassuming stop along the arduous journey. It is situated approximately half a mile south of its modern marker.
Roughly 9 ½ miles southwest of Garfield lies the site of “Love’s Defeat.” In June 1847, Lieutenant John Love led Company B from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, along the Santa Fe Trail when they were ambushed by Comanche warriors. The attack tragically resulted in the deaths of six soldiers and injuries to another six. The location of this significant battle is commemorated by the Wet/Dry Routes Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail, marked on the south side of U.S. Highway 56, just past the old railroad bed. From this point, the Wet Route continued its course into present-day Edwards County, Kansas.
The Dry Route in Pawnee County
The Original Dry Route diverged from the Wet Route approximately 3.5 miles southwest of the Pawnee Fork Crossing, near the southwest corner of Larned, Kansas, on US 56. This path traversed a dry ridge to the north of Garfield and Kinsley, leading to another Coon Creek Crossing, before continuing north of present-day Offerle, Kansas, towards Dodge City. A later, alternative Dry Route originated southwest of Pawnee Rock and passed north of contemporary Larned, reaching the western edge of the current Larned State Hospital grounds before converging towards Dodge City. This route, though shorter, necessitated careful water management.
The Dry Route followed the north side of the Pawnee River, passing what is today the Santa Fe Trail Center. Located two miles west of Larned on the south side of Kansas Highway 156, this institution stands as a unique museum, library, and educational hub dedicated to interpreting the history and cultural blend along the Santa Fe Trail. It meticulously preserves artifacts and manuscripts, offering interpretive exhibits, educational programs, and comprehensive resource materials. The outdoor portion of the museum provides a tangible glimpse into frontier life with its reconstructed sod house, schoolhouse, and dugout.
The trail continued to the Fort Larned National Historic Site, situated six miles west of Larned on Kansas Highway 156. Active from 1859 to 1878, Fort Larned was one of the most critical military installations guarding the Santa Fe Trail. Nine of its original ten stone buildings still stand today, with the tenth being faithfully reconstructed in 1988. This site is celebrated as one of the best-preserved frontier military posts in the American West and along the entire Santa Fe Trail. One building now functions as a museum, interpretive center, and administrative office. Additional Santa Fe Trail wagon ruts are preserved in a detached area five miles south of the Fort, offering a profound connection to the past.
The Pawnee Fork Crossing on the Dry Route, found on the western edge of the Larned State Hospital grounds, remains visible and accessible via a small bridge. This crossing, too, could be challenging at times, leading to the establishment of a vital campsite. By 1859, a mail and stage station operated here, influencing the initial establishment of Fort Larned closer to this crossing before its relocation to the current military post site. This area was clearly a nexus of activity.
Just west of this crossing stood Boyd’s Ranch, a trading post located just outside the Fort Larned Military Reservation. This strategic location allowed it to offer various forms of “off-post entertainment,” including liquor, gambling, and services from prostitutes. It is widely believed that a significant portion of the trail traffic utilized the Dry Route crossing precisely because of the amenities offered at Boyd’s Ranch. The route then continued through Pawnee County, passing the Rock Hollow Campsite, named for a nearby distinctive sandstone outcropping, before extending into Edwards County.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Santa Fe Trail in Pawnee County
The journey along the Santa Fe Trail in Pawnee County, Kansas, whether by the Wet or Dry Route, was a demanding endeavor that shaped the landscape and history of the American frontier. From the critical decisions travelers faced at its forks to the challenges of river crossings and the ever-present threat of conflict, Pawnee County played an indispensable role in the narrative of westward expansion. Today, sites like the Santa Fe Trail Center and the remarkably preserved Fort Larned National Historic Site stand as powerful reminders of the courage, commerce, and cultural exchange that defined this legendary pathway. These historical treasures continue to tell the stories of those who traversed the challenging terrain, leaving an indelible mark on the history of Kansas and the nation.
