The historic Santa Fe Trail, a monumental artery of commerce and migration, carved its path through the heart of Morris County, Kansas, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and its communities. This vital route, stretching from Missouri to Santa Fe, New Mexico, played a pivotal role in the expansion of the American West, with Morris County serving as a crucial waypoint for countless travelers seeking fortune and new horizons along the Santa Fe Trail.
Entering Morris County approximately a mile beyond Agnes City in Lyon County, the trail then proceeded about seven miles east of what would become Council Grove. From there, it continued its southward trajectory for roughly six miles before converging upon one of the trail’s most significant stopping points.
Council Grove: A Pivotal Outfitting Hub on the Santa Fe Trail
Council Grove emerged as the most noted stopping place between the Missouri River and Santa Fe, New Mexico. It was here, amidst the critical mile-wide grove of hardwood timber, that travelers made their final preparations before embarking on the challenging 624 miles of mostly treeless plains. The community’s strategic location meant it was the last significant chance for traders, freighters, and gold seekers to obtain essential supplies and provisions.
Caravans would form in Council Grove, a process involving the election of officers and the establishment of strict rules for travel across the frontier. During the trail’s busiest years, Council Grove was a scene of early morning commotion—dust filling the air as wagons bound for Santa Fe rattled and jockeyed for position to form a formidable train. Wagonmasters’ shouts of “Catch up!” to their teamsters were soon followed by “Stretch out!” as the long procession began its westward journey. Council Grove’s Main Street, straddling both sides of the Neosho River, still marks the historic course of the Santa Fe Trail through the town.
“The warmest description will scarcely convey to the untraveled readers even a faint picture of this very beautiful grove…A crystal stream meanders over its pebbly bottom while the sun blazes upon the surrounding desert. We sat…fished, bathed, read, sang, talked of home, and of the strange country we were about to visit, of the wild travel we had yet to encounter.”
— Matt Field, Council Grove, 1839
The Seth Hays Barn: A Testament to Early Council Grove Enterprise
About one mile east of Council Grove, north of the Morris County Fairgrounds off U.S. 56, stands an old stone barn built in 1871 by Council Grove founder Seth Hays. This robust 76-foot-long native stone structure was originally used by Hays to house his livestock. Later, from 1889 to 1945, it became an integral part of the Morris County Poor Farm, serving a different, yet equally vital, community role. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this historic barn faced the threat of collapse until significant repairs were undertaken in the 1990s. Today, gatherings and re-enactments of Santa Fe Trail rendezvous are held here in June, bringing history to life.
The Historic Council Oak Treaty Site
Located on U.S. Highway 56 (East Main Street), near North 4th Street, is the site of the old Council Oak. This venerable tree earned its name from a significant council held beneath its branches on August 10, 1825. This pivotal meeting, attended by three U.S. commissioners and the chiefs of the Great and Little Osage Indians, resulted in a treaty that granted Americans and Hispanics free passage along the Santa Fe Trail through Osage territory. In exchange for this crucial right-of-way, the Osage received an $800 payment, alongside ribbons, tobacco, calico, and other goods from the U.S. Commissioners. This treaty also authorized the marking of a road from the western frontier of Missouri to New Mexico. Though a storm eventually destroyed the original tree, its revered stump remains preserved under a protective canopy, accompanied by an outdoor exhibit detailing its profound historical significance.
The Post Office Oak and Its Unique Role
Also situated on East Main Street is the Post Office Oak and Museum, preserving another unique aspect of trail communication. From 1825 to 1847, an old bur oak tree here served as the unofficial post office for travelers on the Santa Fe Trail. A natural hollow in its base acted as a cache where mail and messages could be left, informing others of trail conditions, dangers, or successful passages. This 300-year-old oak died in 1990, but its trunk stands as a powerful reminder of this ingenious system. The adjacent stone house, built in 1864 as a residence with a brewery in its basement, now functions as a museum operated by the Morris County Historical Society, further enriching the historical experience.
The Neosho River Crossing: A Trail Challenge
River crossings on the Santa Fe Trail presented significant hazards. The combination of ornery livestock, soft river bottoms, and the immense weight of 2-3 ton wagons made easing across and struggling up the opposite bank a tricky and often perilous business. The ideal crossing featured shallow water, a firm rock bed, and gentle slopes. This natural rock bed site on the Neosho River, just north of where U.S. Highway 56 (Main Street) crosses today, was one of the best documented along the entire path. Though steep banks and high water could still pose difficulties, ripples in the stream indicated a flat, hard rock streambed that made crossings more manageable. During the trail era, the riverbanks sloped more gently to the water’s edge than they do now. A Riverwalk Park and an outdoor exhibit on the east side mark this historically vital location.
“The creek bank, which is short and steep, made some little detention in the crossing of the wagons; they had to double teams several times. It is amusing to hear the shouting of the wagoners to their animals, whooping and hallowing; the cracking of whips almost deafening.”
— Second Lieutenant William D. Whipple, 1852
Seth Hays Home: Residence of Council Grove’s Founder
Seth M. Hays, a shrewd, colorful, and highly successful trader, rancher, tavern owner, and publisher, played an instrumental role in the founding and development of Council Grove. A grandson of Daniel Boone and cousin of Kit Carson, Hays arrived in Council Grove in 1847 to trade with the Kanza/Kaw Indians. His various businesses proved incredibly lucrative. In 1867, he built his elaborate brick home, which was quite grand for Council Grove at the time. His black maid and former slave, “Aunt Sally,” lived in the basement, caring for Hays and his adopted daughter until her passing in 1872. Hays witnessed profound changes during his 25 years as a community leader, including the relocation of the Kanza/Kaw Indians, the growth of the settlement into a town, and Kansas’s evolution into a territory and eventual statehood. He lived in this home until his death in 1874. This preserved residence, located on Wood Street near Hall Street (two blocks south of Main Street), is one of the few trail homes in the area maintained in its original condition and is now operated as a museum by the Morris County Historical Society. Other historic properties belonging to Seth Hays include the Historic Barn east of Council Grove and the renowned Hays House Restaurant.
The Enduring Legacy of Hays House Restaurant
The Hays House Restaurant, located at 112 West Main Street, also owes its origins to Seth Hays. He initially built a log house on this site, where he conducted trade with the Native Americans, exchanging guns, blankets, flour, and tinware. In 1857, Hays replaced the log structure with a larger building, originally known as the Frame Store. This versatile establishment served the citizens as a trading post, restaurant, hotel, courthouse, post office, printing office, meeting and social hall, and even an early, bustling form of dinner theater. Notably, in October 1858, the first term of court in Morris County was held within Hays’ Frame Store, with the jury deliberating under the shade of a tree in the yard.
Business at the Frame Store was exceptionally lively. In just four days in 1860, the Kaw Indians alone spent an astounding $15,000 here and at the rival Conn Store across the street. The Santa Fe Trail trade became increasingly lucrative, with Hays’ former partner, G.M. Simcock, estimating that by 1863, $40 million in freight was hauled through the town in ox- and mule-drawn wagons. Beyond supplies, the Hays House offered crucial meals and rooms to weary traders enduring the arduous eight-week trip between New Mexico and Missouri. Its early patrons included legendary figures such as Jesse James and General George Armstrong Custer. Later remodeled, the Hays House Restaurant is today celebrated as the oldest continuously operated restaurant west of the Mississippi River. Its interior boasts numerous historical artifacts, including artwork, arrowheads, American Indian relics, and a notable crystal collection, complemented by an outdoor exhibit in front of the building.
“Those who have occasion to stop at Council Grove, on the Santa Fe Road, will do well to ‘put up’ with Charles A. Gilkey [Hays’ hotel clerk] … mine host of the Hayes House. [They] … cannot help feeling quite at home.”
— Kansas Press, July 11, 1859
The Pioneer/Conn Store: A Rival Trading Powerhouse
Built in 1858 by local merchant Malcolm Conn, the Conn Store stood as one of Council Grove’s two most important trading posts during the vibrant Santa Fe Trail era. It initially catered to the Kanza/Kaw Indians and Santa Fe Trail travelers, later extending its services to local settlers. As one of the oldest buildings still standing in Council Grove, the Conn Store provided essential accommodations, meals, and stables for freighters, in addition to its bustling retail operations. Directly rivaling Seth Hays’ successful outfitting firm across the street, the Conn Store’s business was consistently brisk. In 1864 alone, Conn reportedly sold an impressive $24,000 in merchandise in a single month. The building has undergone additions and remodels over the years, but the distinct light-colored stone on its west side clearly defines the outline of the original, historically significant store, a true relic of the Santa Fe Trail era.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Santa Fe Trail in Morris County
The enduring presence of these historical sites ensures that the rich legacy of the Santa Fe Trail in Morris County, Kansas, continues to resonate today. From the bustling trade of Council Grove to the quiet determination of pioneers forging their way west, Morris County stands as a vibrant testament to an era of profound transformation. These preserved landmarks offer a tangible connection to the past, allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of traders, Native Americans, and adventurers. Exploring these sites provides a deeper appreciation for the arduous journey and the vibrant history that shaped the American frontier, reminding us of the pivotal role this Kansas county played in the epic story of the Santa Fe Trail.
