New Orleans, a city steeped in rich history and unique traditions, is famously known for its distinctive above-ground burial sites, often referred to as the Cities of the Dead. These sprawling necropolises are not merely resting places; they are intricate labyrinths of ornate tombs and mausoleums, each telling a silent story of the past. Among these, St. Louis Cemetery #1 stands as the oldest and perhaps most iconic, captivating visitors with its haunting beauty and myriad ghostly tales.
Established by a Spanish royal decree on August 14, 1789, St. Louis Cemetery #1 holds a prominent place in New Orleans’ history. The need for a new burial ground arose as the city’s older St. Peter Cemetery became full, and urban development encroached upon its boundaries. City administrators, concerned about the spread of contagion, sought a new site far from the population center. A low-lying, swampy plot on St. Louis Street was chosen, not for its ideal elevation, but because higher ground was simply too costly. This challenging terrain ultimately necessitated the city’s unique above-ground burial tradition.
The Unique Architecture of New Orleans’ Above-Ground Burials
Upon its initial development, St. Louis Cemetery #1 was meticulously divided into sections to accommodate Catholics, non-Catholics, and enslaved individuals. Early burials, however, appear to have been somewhat haphazard, contributing to the maze-like quality of its paths and tombs today. Despite spanning just one square block, this historic cemetery is the final resting place for thousands, housing over 700 tombs and the remains of more than 100,000 individuals. It remains an active burial site, with several interments occurring each year, and is proudly listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The prevalence of above-ground vaults in New Orleans is a direct consequence of its high groundwater levels. Traditional in-ground burials were impractical, as coffins would often float to the surface during heavy rains. Following the Spanish custom of using vaults, the tombs in St. Louis Cemetery #1 range from humble to extraordinarily grand. The perimeter walls themselves are ingeniously constructed from economical vaults stacked atop one another, while many wealthier families commissioned ornate crypts that resemble miniature houses, complete with intricate ironwork. Mark Twain, captivated by their appearance, famously dubbed these cemeteries the “Cities of the Dead.” Though time has left its mark on these structures, with chipped stone, crumbling facades, and broken pathways, their age and deterioration only enhance their evocative and haunting beauty.
Due to a rise in vandalism, public access to St. Louis Cemetery #1 was restricted in March 2015. Today, visitors can still explore these sacred grounds, but only when accompanied by authorized tour guides and companies, ensuring the preservation of this irreplaceable historical treasure.
Whispers from Beyond: The Hauntings of St. Louis Cemetery #1
Considered one of the most haunted cemeteries in the United States, St. Louis Cemetery #1 has been a nexus of paranormal activity for over two centuries. Reports of spectral encounters are frequent and varied, contributing to the cemetery’s enduring mystique.
Marie Laveau, The Voodoo Queen of New Orleans
Among the most celebrated and frequently encountered spirits in the Cities of the Dead is Marie Laveau, the legendary Voodoo Queen of New Orleans. Born on September 10, 1801, as a free Creole woman of color, Marie Laveau was the illegitimate daughter of a free man of color and a Creole mother. Historical accounts suggest that both her mother and grandmother were also practitioners of Voodoo. As an adult, Marie blended her deep Catholic faith with African religious traditions and culture, practicing fortune-telling, occult rituals, Voodoo, and utilizing herbal remedies. Her remarkable successes quickly spread throughout the city, solidifying her reputation as the undisputed Voodoo Queen. She lived a long life, passing away on June 15, 1881. Intriguingly, many claimed to have seen her in the days following her reported death.
More than 130 years later, sightings of Marie Laveau persist. Her misty apparition is often seen traversing the cemetery pathways, typically adorned in her iconic red and white turban and vibrantly colored attire. Many who attempt to follow her report that she simply vanishes into thin air. Some even claim to hear her muttering an ancient New Orleans Santeria Voodoo curse as she walks, with the malediction occasionally heard outside the cemetery grounds. Other accounts describe her ghost emerging directly from her tomb, sometimes appearing to be in a foul mood as she storms along the paths. Beyond the cemetery, Laveau has been spotted in various locations throughout the French Quarter, most frequently on the street where she once lived. Non-believers or those who scoff at her legacy have reported experiencing unexplained scratches, pinches, or even being shoved to the ground. Additional reports include feelings of being touched, sudden unexplainable illness, and disembodied voices emanating from within her tomb.
Laveau’s tomb itself remains a powerful magnet for tourists and devotees alike. Visitors frequently leave offerings such as candles, flowers, Voodoo dolls, and beads, hoping to receive her blessings. Even more bizarre are the persistent rumors that her soul sometimes manifests as a large, shiny black Voodoo cat with fiery red eyes. Legend advises those who encounter this feline to cross themselves three times and retreat backward, rather than turning away abruptly, lest they incur a curse. Another tale speaks of Zombi, the Voodoo Queen’s large snake familiar, said to have been placed in her coffin and entombed with her. Today, Zombi is believed to guard her tomb, occasionally seen slithering around or basking in the sun atop the crypt. Furthermore, strange stories describe ghostly nude Voodoo practitioners performing rituals, with Marie Laveau herself, dressed entirely in white, presiding over them.
Henry Vignes, The Lost Sailor
Another prominent spirit said to haunt this old cemetery is that of Henry Vignes, a 19th-century sailor. Vignes was a wanderer of the seas, but New Orleans held his roots, as his family possessed a tomb in St. Louis Cemetery #1. Before embarking on his final voyage, he entrusted important papers, including those pertaining to his family tomb, to his boarding-house owner. Tragically, she betrayed his trust, selling his tomb in his absence. Before he could seek justice, Vignes fell ill and died, penniless. He was consequently buried in an unmarked grave within the pauper’s section of St. Louis Cemetery #1.
Over a century later, Henry Vignes is said to be still searching for his family tomb. He is frequently seen walking the burial ground, described as a tall man with blue eyes, wearing a white shirt. Though he appears disheveled and lost, he is often seen in a full, solid form, seeming very much alive. Reports detail him approaching visitors, asking if they know the location of the Vignes tomb. Sometimes, this spirit will tap the living on the shoulder and inquire, “Do you know anything about this Tomb here?” Another account suggests he occasionally appears at funerals, asking mourners if there is any room for him in their tomb. However, his most common and poignant statement is “I need to rest!” His image has reportedly been captured on camera, and his voice on Electronic Voice Phenomena (EVP) recordings.
Alphonse, The Friendly Wanderer
Yet another lost ghost encountered in the cemetery is Alphonse, a spirit who, like Henry Vignes, appears disoriented. He is known to approach visitors in a friendly manner, asking for help to find his way home. Alphonse has also been observed gathering flowers from other graves and respectfully placing them on his own tomb. There is speculation that he may have been murdered or betrayed by someone from the Pinead family, as he reportedly warns visitors to steer clear of their tomb. Despite often appearing with a smile, this restless and lost soul is said to frequently begin to cry just before he vanishes.
More Restless Souls and Ethereal Companions
These are but a few of the hundreds of spirits said to haunt the Cities of the Dead. Reports abound of phantom figures, including uniformed soldiers, victims of yellow fever, and other apparitions that appear both day and night. Interestingly, the burial ground is also home to a number of unearthly dogs and cats, believed to have once belonged to a former caretaker. These spectral pets are often seen lurking near St. Louis No. 2 cemetery, where their owner was interred.
Ancient Rituals and Enduring Mysteries
Visitors to the cemetery often wonder about the presence of fine china dishware and ornate silverware scattered throughout the graveyard. This intriguing detail is part of an ancient practice known as the “Dumb Supper” – a Wiccan ritual where a mock table setting is prepared for the departed, along with a visitor seeking answers from their lost loved one. These settings may also include real food, wine glasses, bottles of wine or liquor, and other personal items, creating a poignant tableau of remembrance and connection.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of New Orleans’ Cities of the Dead
The Cities of the Dead in New Orleans are far more than mere cemeteries; they are living museums, vital repositories of history, culture, and folklore. St. Louis Cemetery #1, with its distinctive above-ground architecture and a pantheon of spectral residents like Marie Laveau, Henry Vignes, and Alphonse, offers a compelling glimpse into the city’s unique relationship with death and remembrance. Its historical significance, combined with the chilling tales of its resident spirits and the ancient rituals practiced within its walls, ensures its place as an iconic, authoritative landmark. The enduring allure of these hallowed grounds continues to draw visitors from around the globe, eager to explore its intricate beauty, unravel its mysteries, and perhaps, encounter a whisper from the past. The atmosphere of these remarkable burial sites is truly unforgettable, marking them as an essential experience for anyone seeking to understand the soul of New Orleans.
