The Black Canyon of the Gunnison in west-central Colorado stands as a geological marvel, renowned for its dramatic, sheer black walls that plunge up to 2,700 feet into a narrow gorge. This spectacular landscape, carved over millions of years by the relentless Gunnison River below, combines startling depths, a remarkably narrow opening, and imposing sheer walls in a way truly unique among North American canyons. Long before European explorers arrived, the Tabaquache Ute Indian bands recognized the profound significance of this impressive geographic feature.
Early Exploration and the Challenges of the Wilderness
The first Europeans to approach Colorado’s vast mountains and valleys were Spanish explorers in 1765, led by Juan Rivera, seeking a passage to the California coast. While they bypassed the immediate canyon area, their presence marked the beginning of European awareness in the region. Decades later, in the early 1800s, fur trappers traversed the surrounding wilderness, but the canyon itself remained largely unexplored officially for another 50 years.
A pivotal moment in the canyon’s documented history came in 1853 when Captain John W. Gunnison led an expedition searching for a viable transcontinental railroad route. Confronted by the exceptionally rugged terrain, Gunnison famously deemed the area unsuitable for a railroad and continued his journey into Utah. Tragically, he and most of his group were killed by a band of Paiute on October 26, 1853, underscoring the dangers of the untamed frontier.
The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad: Conquering the Impossible
For many years, subsequent explorers echoed Gunnison’s assessment, believing that constructing a railroad through the canyon was an insurmountable task. However, the discovery of rich mineral deposits on Colorado’s western slopes reignited interest and urgency. By the early 1880s, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad embarked on an ambitious westward expansion across Colorado, setting their sights on the seemingly impossible challenge of carving a narrow-gauge railroad line through the hard rock walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
This engineering feat, previously dismissed as unachievable, required immense effort and blasting. Yet, triumphantly, in August 1882, the first Denver & Rio Grande train emerged from the canyon, arriving at the construction camp at the terminus of the tracks on Cimarron Creek. This marked a monumental achievement in American railroading history.
Cimarron: A Thriving Railroad Town and Kipling’s Account
The construction camp, initially a collection of tents known as Cimarron, rapidly transformed into a bustling railroad town by the end of that year. It boasted a roundhouse, station facilities, various businesses, numerous saloons, and a population exceeding 300 people. Cimarron became a vital hub for the Denver and Rio Grande.
The awe-inspiring journey through the canyon captivated even seasoned travelers. Author Rudyard Kipling, after riding the train through the gorge in 1889, eloquently described his experience: “We entered a gorge, remote from the sun, where the rocks were two thousand feet sheer, and where a rock-splintered river roared and howled ten feet below a track which seemed to have been built on the simple principle of dropping miscellaneous dirt into the river and pinning a few rails a-top. There was a glory, a wonder, and a mystery about the mad ride, which I felt keenly… until I had to offer prayers for the safety of the train.” His words perfectly capture the raw power and perilous beauty of the route.
For the next 67 years, engineers navigating the Black Canyon faced constant peril, particularly during winter. Avalanches and rockfalls were frequent, making every journey a gamble against nature. Despite these dangers and the continuous need for repairs, the Denver and Rio Grande leveraged its Black Canyon of the Gunnison route as the cornerstone of its “Scenic Line of the World” passenger promotions, even featuring the iconic Curecanti Needle on its emblem.
From Mining Hub to Tourist Destination to National Park
While the railroad’s primary purpose was to transport vast quantities of mine ore, it also initiated scenic excursions by the turn of the century. A subsidiary, the “Rio Grande Hotel Company,” established the “Black Canyon Hotel and Eating House,” which quickly gained a reputation for its exceptional hospitality. However, as mining operations declined in the area, Cimarron’s population dwindled. The town transitioned to serve local cattlemen, who used the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad to ship their livestock to market. This, too, eventually changed as trucks became the preferred method of transport, leaving Cimarron’s rail yards and corrals empty.
The last train to run from Gunnison to Cimarron through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison was a scenic excursion in 1949, marking the end of an era. Shortly thereafter, the rails, ties, and corrals were removed. The depot, roundhouse, hotel, saloons, ice plant, and individual homes of old Cimarron gradually disappeared.
Today, the National Park Service maintains a visitor center, campground, and picnic area where the original townsite of Cimarron once stood. An exhibit of authentic railroad cars, including the genuine Engine 278, a coal tender, a boxcar, and a caboose, interprets those bygone railroad days. A short drive north of Cimarron reveals the remains of the last standing D & RG Narrow Gauge Trestle crossing the Cimarron River, a relic listed on the National Register of Historic Places, perpetually reminding visitors of the incredible engineering that tamed this wild landscape.
The steep canyon was initially designated a National Monument on March 2, 1933. Recognizing its exceptional natural and historical value, its status was elevated to a National Park on October 21, 1999, with an additional 10,000 acres of wilderness added to its protected boundaries.
Visiting the Black Canyon of the Gunnison Today
Within the park’s 14 miles, visitors are treated to dramatic vistas of the craggy canyon walls and breathtaking glimpses of the swift river coursing more than 2,000 feet below. The park supports a diverse array of wildlife, including elk, bears, deer, wild turkeys, bighorn sheep, and hundreds of bird species, offering ample opportunities for observation and photography. Beyond sightseeing, the park provides an array of activities such as hiking and biking trails, cross-country skiing during winter, fishing in the river, camping, and horseback riding.
The primary access point for visitors is the scenic drive along the South Rim, located approximately 15 miles east of Montrose, Colorado, accessible via U.S. Highway 50 and Colorado Highway 347. The North Rim offers a more remote experience but is typically closed during the winter months, situated about 11 miles south of Crawford, Colorado, via CO Highway 92 and North Rim Road. For the adventurous, the river itself can be reached via steep, unmaintained trails, though these require significant physical exertion, with descents taking approximately four hours and ascents six.
Conclusion: An Enduring Natural Wonder
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison remains a testament to both the raw power of nature and the enduring spirit of human endeavor. From its ancient geological formation and the early Native American and Spanish encounters to the audacious engineering of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad and its eventual designation as a National Park, the canyon’s story is rich with history and drama. Today, it offers a profound experience for those seeking to witness one of North America’s most spectacular and awe-inspiring natural wonders, preserving its unique beauty and legacy for generations to come. This magnificent landscape continues to captivate all who venture to its precipitous edges.
