The historic Santa Fe Trail in Ford County, Kansas, played a pivotal role in westward expansion and trade, serving as a vital artery for commerce and migration. Both the Wet and Dry Routes of the legendary Santa Fe Trail continued their paths through Ford County, Kansas, converging before extending westward along the north side of the Arkansas River. These routes were essential for travelers, traders, and military personnel navigating the challenging landscapes of the American frontier. The county’s unique geography, with the winding Arkansas River and vast plains, shaped the experiences of countless individuals traversing this historic pathway, leading them through significant landmarks and settlements like Dodge City, and past the vital military outposts established to protect them.
The Wet Route, often referred to as the Mountain Branch, meticulously traced the north bank of the Arkansas River. Meanwhile, the Dry Route, or Cimarron Branch, entered Ford County approximately eight miles to the north of the river, eventually merging with its wetter counterpart. Near the modern-day site of Dodge City, these two major branches unified, continuing their journey past significant points such as “The Caches” and the eventual branching point of the rigorous Cimarron Route, which notoriously lacked water.
The Wet Route (Mountain Branch) in Ford County
As the Wet Route proceeded into Ford County, one of its earliest and most intriguing stops was the “Black Pool,” situated about four miles east of the present-day community of Ford. This natural spring earned its distinctive name because its waters appear dark when observed from above, a phenomenon attributed to an underlying shelf of shale. The Black Pool was more than just a water source; it served as a significant landmark where numerous inscriptions were left by passing travelers on the rock ledge above the pool. Well-preserved trail ruts, a testament to the heavy traffic of wagons and livestock, are still visible nearby, offering a tangible connection to the past. Today, the Black Pool can be accessed by traveling one mile north on Kansas 154, crossing the Arkansas River, then 3.5 miles east on the first gravel road, and finally 0.5 mile south into a pasture.
Further along the Wet Route, travelers reached the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas River, also known as the Point of Inception. This strategic location marked the divergence where the Wet Route of the Santa Fe Trail branched off to ford Mulberry Creek, initiating what was known as the Cimarron Route toward Santa Fe. The Cimarron Route was infamous for traversing the Cimarron Desert, or La Jornada (the Journey), a stretch of land notorious for its extreme scarcity of water. Consequently, the Lower Crossing saw reduced usage after the 1830s due to the perils of the Cimarron Route. This historically significant crossing is located near where Kansas Highway 154 now spans the river, approximately one mile north of Ford, Kansas.
Continuing toward what would become Fort Dodge and later Dodge City, the trail passed Jackson’s Island on the Arkansas River. Despite its name, Jackson’s Island was not an island but rather a peninsula densely covered with timber on the river’s south side. This natural feature evolved into a well-known and frequented campsite for weary travelers and caravans. One notable historical event occurred here in 1843, a confrontation between Captain Philip St. George Cooke’s dragoons and Colonel Jacob Snively’s forces from the Republic of Texas. Snively and his men had ventured north with the intention of raiding Mexican Caravans along the Santa Fe Trail, but Cooke and his troops successfully disarmed them, asserting American authority along the trade route.
The journey on the Wet Route then led directly to Fort Dodge, a crucial military outpost established in April 1865. Its primary mission was to provide protection for the Santa Fe Trail, a task that became increasingly vital as settlement pushed westward and conflicts with Native American tribes escalated. The site of Fort Dodge had previously been utilized as a popular campsite by trail travelers due to its strategic location at the point where the wet and dry routes of the Santa Fe Trail rejoined. A stage station initially operated here but was later destroyed by Indian raids, highlighting the persistent dangers of the frontier. Fort Dodge troops tirelessly protected stagecoaches, mail deliveries, and the construction crews building the nascent railroad lines. The fort was eventually decommissioned in 1872 and subsequently transformed into the Kansas Soldiers Home, which continues its operations to this day. Although many of its original structures have undergone remodeling, they still offer a compelling glimpse into army life along the historic Santa Fe Trail.
The Dry Route (Cimarron Branch) in Ford County
The Dry Route, or Cimarron Branch, upon entering Ford County, traversed a different set of landmarks. One such point was the Arroyo Blanco campsite, characterized by a gully streaked with alkali deposits. In Spanish, “Arroyo Blanco” aptly translates to “White Ravine,” describing the unique appearance of the landscape. The route then meandered onward to the Little Little Coon Creek Crossing, where multiple well-defined ruts, carved by countless wagons, can still be observed in the area. During the heyday of the trail, this stream was known simply as Little Coon Creek, though today’s main channel is designated Big Coon Creek. The crossing was specifically utilized on the Post-1859 Dry Route and served as a crucial campsite for the stagecoach companies operating along the trail. Eventually, the Dry Route converged with the Wet Route at the Lower Crossing of the Arkansas River, unifying the two main arteries of the Santa Fe Trail within Ford County.
Combined Wet-Dry Route and Key Landmarks
After the Wet and Dry Routes merged, the path continued toward Dodge City, passing by the site of Fort Mann, which was established in April 1847. This post was deemed necessary by the U.S. Army to serve as a midway point between Fort Leavenworth and Santa Fe, providing essential services such as wagon repair and animal replacement. Although not classified as a formal military post, Fort Mann was strategically defensible and occasionally occupied by regular troops when circumstances demanded. It was abandoned in 1848, having served its temporary purpose. The remnants of the old Fort Mann site are located approximately one mile west of Dodge City, accessible via U.S. Highway 50.
Just about another mile further west from Fort Mann lay the site of Fort Atkinson. Established in 1850, Fort Atkinson’s primary objectives were to control Native American tribes and protect the vital Santa Fe Trail in Ford County. In 1851, a newly constructed fort on the site was officially designated as Fort Atkinson, making it the first fully garrisoned fort erected directly along the Santa Fe Trail. Despite its ambitious mission to safeguard the trail from frequent Indian raids, the fort ultimately proved unsuccessful, largely due to inadequate buildings and the considerable difficulty and expense associated with supplying it in such a remote frontier location. Consequently, Fort Atkinson was abandoned in October 1854. Its historical site is situated approximately two miles west of Dodge City on U.S. Highway 50.
Northwest of Fort Atkinson was a unique landmark known as “The Caches.” This site served as a hiding place where the Baird/Chambers party famously stored trade goods in 1823, burying them in pits to conceal them from both natural elements and potential raiders. Such caches were a common, albeit risky, practice for traders along the trail, underscoring the dangers and logistical challenges of frontier commerce.
About three miles west of Dodge City was another significant landmark known as Point of Rocks, a favored lookout point along the Santa Fe Trail. Historically, four distinct outcroppings constituted the Points of Rock, offering panoramic views of the surrounding terrain and the trail below. In 1915, a marker was erected about five miles west of Dodge City at what was considered the highest point, High Rock. However, this particular point was regrettably destroyed during highway construction in 1981. Today, the remaining outcroppings are marked with a historical plaque situated three miles west of Dodge City on U.S. Highway 50, on the north side of the road, preserving a piece of this essential trail history.
Finally, nine miles west of Dodge City, visitors can discover an exceptionally well-preserved set of trail ruts on the north side of Highway 50. These parallel ruts, deeply etched into the landscape by countless wagons, offer a profound visual connection to the past. The site is owned and meticulously managed by the Boot Hill Museum, which graciously permits visitors to walk to the site and experience this tangible piece of history firsthand. The Kansas Highway Department has further enhanced accessibility by providing a convenient turnout and a dedicated parking area, ensuring that these irreplaceable traces of the Santa Fe Trail remain accessible for future generations.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Santa Fe Trail in Ford County
The journey of the Santa Fe Trail in Ford County, Kansas, represents a remarkable chapter in American history, embodying the spirit of westward expansion, arduous trade, and the ever-present challenges of the frontier. From the distinct paths of the Wet and Dry Routes to their eventual convergence, and the establishment of vital outposts like Fort Dodge, Fort Mann, and Fort Atkinson, Ford County was a critical nexus for travelers. The natural landmarks like the Black Pool and Point of Rocks, alongside the enduring trail ruts, serve as silent witnesses to the millions of footsteps and wagon wheels that traversed this historic ground. Today, the preserved remnants and historical sites across Ford County offer invaluable insights into the daily lives, struggles, and triumphs of those who journeyed along the Santa Fe Trail, ensuring that its profound legacy continues to inspire and educate future generations about the enduring spirit of American enterprise and exploration.
