As travelers journey southwest from the quieter agricultural expanses of southern Illinois, they soon encounter a subtle transition, signaling their approach to the sprawling metropolitan shadow of St. Louis. Here, nestled on the very outskirts of this major city, lies Mitchell, Illinois, a small community that holds significant historical markers of the legendary Mother Road. Mitchell, Illinois, despite its modest size, served as a crucial waypoint for both early pioneers and later, the countless adventurers traversing the iconic Route 66, offering a glimpse into a bygone era where infrastructure and enterprise shaped the landscape.
The Genesis of Mitchell: A Railroad Town
Before becoming a familiar name along Route 66, the area around Mitchell was primarily settled by diligent German farmers. These pioneers, including notable figures like James Gillham and Andrew Emmert, toiled the land, cultivating wheat, oats, corn, potatoes, and hay, establishing a foundation of agricultural prosperity in southwestern Illinois. However, the true catalyst for the community’s establishment arrived with the ambitious vision of two Chicago brothers.
In 1870, John Jay and William H. Mitchell ventured to this region with the intention of establishing a vast cattle ranch. They acquired an impressive 4,000 acres, only to discover much of it was swampy and ill-suited for their initial plans. Undeterred, the Mitchell brothers embarked on an ambitious land-draining project, transforming the challenging terrain into viable ranchland. This spirit of innovation and perseverance would come to define the area.
Their entrepreneurial endeavors coincided with the Chicago & Alton Railroad’s plans to construct tracks connecting Alton to East St. Louis. Recognizing the immense potential, John Mitchell became a fervent advocate for the railway’s construction, successfully lobbying for a stop in the area. This led to the establishment of “Mitchell Station,” a name proudly bearing his family’s legacy. The brothers further solidified the community’s future by laying out a townsite, generously donating land for two essential institutions: a Presbyterian Church and the St. Elizabeth Catholic Church, along with a vital one-room schoolhouse, ensuring spiritual and educational foundations for the growing populace.
Over the ensuing decades, Mitchell, Illinois, burgeoned into a bustling rail transportation hub. Additional railroad companies, including the Wabash, laid their tracks through the town, reinforcing its strategic importance. By 1882, historical accounts of Madison County depict Mitchell as a thriving microcosm of commerce, featuring two general stores (operated by Hinze & Krueger and Henry Reinemann), a blacksmith shop and grocery owned by Henry Quinn, and a meat market run by A. Rapp. The establishment of a post office, with Robert Krueger as its first postmaster, further cemented Mitchell’s identity as a developing community. Dr. D. E. Smalley was another pivotal early settler, providing essential medical services.
The turn of the 20th century saw even more railroad companies establishing operations and building rail yards in the Mitchell area. This industrial boom attracted a significant influx of workers, many migrating from Kentucky and Tennessee, seeking employment opportunities. To accommodate this burgeoning workforce, two boardinghouses, run by Mrs. Whyer and Mrs. Netheringham, emerged, alongside a growing array of local businesses. During this vibrant era, the community boasted multiple grocery stores, a saloon, another blacksmith shop, two hotels, a garage, and several restaurants, all catering to the needs of its residents and the transient rail workers. Mitchell’s prosperity was undeniably linked to the ceaseless rhythm of the trains.
Route 66: The Mother Road’s Embrace
The creation of Route 66 brought a new wave of vitality and notoriety to Mitchell. The legendary highway ran directly through the heart of the community, fostering the growth of even more businesses eager to cater to the burgeoning automobile culture. Despite its increasing commercial activity, Mitchell remained an unincorporated town, a characteristic it retains to this day, currently home to approximately 1,200 residents. Its modern intersection of Interstate 270 and Illinois Route 203 highlights its enduring connection to historical transportation routes, with Route 203 forming part of the original U.S. Highway 66 alignment.
The Infamous Luna Café
Among the most iconic establishments to grace Route 66 in Mitchell was the Luna Café, originally constructed in 1924. More than just a dining spot, the Luna Café became steeped in local lore and legend. It was widely rumored to house a clandestine gambling operation in its basement, and, more notoriously, provided “ladies of ill-repute” on its upper floors. Local legend famously suggests that if the cherry in the martini glass on the café’s distinctive neon sign was illuminated, these upstairs services were available for business. This establishment was also said to have been a frequent haunt for notorious figures such as Al Capone and other mobsters, adding to its mystique and slightly illicit charm. At one point, the Luna Café was considered a “fine dining establishment,” with prices so prohibitive that only the most affluent citizens could afford its fare.
The original building was crowned with an enormous neon moon sign, a dazzling beacon for travelers. Sadly, this iconic sign was removed and destroyed during a re-roofing project, a loss lamented by many preservationists. However, through the dedicated efforts of organizations like the Friends of the Mother Road, the neon moon sign has been meticulously restored, once again shining brightly and evoking the café’s rich, colorful past. After nearly nine decades, the Luna Café continues to operate, albeit with a changed character. Today, it serves as more of a working person’s establishment, a beloved local spot that also warmly welcomes a new generation of Route 66 enthusiasts and travelers seeking a taste of authentic Americana.
Before reaching the Luna Café, travelers along the old Route 66 would have passed the Bel-Air Drive-In. This classic roadside attraction, a staple of mid-20th-century American leisure, unfortunately met its demise in 2018, making way for a modern gas station. The stretch also featured several other old motels, silent witnesses to countless journeys along the Mother Road, each with its own stories of weary travelers and fleeting dreams.
Beyond Mitchell: Diverging Paths to St. Louis
As travelers departed Mitchell, old Route 66 presented them with a choice of alignments to reach the vibrant city of St. Louis, Missouri. Each path offered a distinct experience, reflecting the evolving infrastructure and urban sprawl of the era.
City 66: Through Urban Heartlands
One alignment, commonly referred to as City 66, guided travelers directly into the central districts of St. Louis. This route meandered through several industrial and urban communities, including Granite City, Madison, and Venice. While historically significant, this particular alignment today passes through parts of East St. Louis that are widely considered less safe and can be confusing to navigate, prompting a cautionary note for modern travelers. It’s a stark reminder of the social and economic changes that have impacted urban corridors since the heyday of Route 66.
The Beltline Route and the Chain of Rocks Bridge
The alternative, known as the Beltline Route, offered a more scenic and, for a time, a highly significant crossing of the Mississippi River via the historic Chain of Rocks Bridge. Constructed in 1929, this engineering marvel was financed through tolls and quickly became an integral part of the Route 66 journey. Its distinctive “S” curve at the middle was designed to make navigation easier for boats through the treacherous Chain of Rocks rapids below, while also providing a unique driving experience for motorists.
However, progress often brings change. In 1967, a new, more modern bridge was constructed as part of Interstate 270, effectively rendering the old Chain of Rocks Bridge obsolete for vehicular traffic. For over three decades, the majestic structure sat abandoned, a silent sentinel over the Mississippi, slowly succumbing to the elements and neglect. Fortunately, a remarkable restoration project breathed new life into the bridge. Today, it has been repurposed as the world’s longest strolling and biking bridge, offering breathtaking views and a unique recreational opportunity. For modern Route 66 enthusiasts following the original path, the Mother Road now dead-ends at the Chain of Rocks Bridge on the Illinois side, requiring a backtrack to the new I-270 overpass to continue the journey into Missouri.
Once across the Mississippi, travelers can reconnect with the spirit of Route 66 by exiting into downtown St. Louis and proceeding along Tucker Boulevard. This path ensures that visitors do not miss some of St. Louis’s most iconic and fascinating sites. These include the awe-inspiring Gateway Arch, a symbol of westward expansion; the grandeur of the historic Union Station, a testament to the golden age of rail travel; and of course, the beloved Route 66 icon, Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, a mandatory stop for any Mother Road pilgrim. From here, the journey seamlessly continues into the welcoming suburbs of Missouri, inviting exploration of the “Show-Me State’s” diverse offerings.
Conclusion: Mitchell’s Enduring Legacy on the Mother Road
Mitchell, Illinois, represents a microcosm of American development, transitioning from fertile farmlands and a pivotal railroad town to an essential stop on the legendary Route 66. Its story, rich with entrepreneurial spirit, rail expansion, and the vibrant, sometimes notorious, roadside culture of the Mother Road, speaks to the dynamic nature of historical communities. While some of its iconic landmarks, like the Bel-Air Drive-In, have faded into memory, others, like the resilient Luna Café and the repurposed Chain of Rocks Bridge, stand as powerful reminders of its enduring legacy. For those traveling the remnants of America’s Main Street, Mitchell remains a vital point of connection, offering not just a geographical passage but a deep dive into the historical tapestry of Illinois and the unforgettable journey of Route 66. It serves as a testament to the ever-changing landscape of American travel, reminding us that every small town along the way has a significant story to tell.
