The historic site of Lees Ferry, nestled on the majestic Colorado River within Coconino County, Arizona, stands as a testament to centuries of human endeavor and natural grandeur. This pivotal location, now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, holds deep historical significance, particularly as a vital crossing point named after Mormon leader John D. Lee, who established a crucial ferry service for settlers.
Ancient Roots: Native American Heritage at Lees Ferry
Long before European arrival, the area around Lees Ferry was a vibrant hub for various Native American communities, with evidence of human occupation dating back approximately 11,500 years. These early inhabitants included the Anasazi, Paiute, and Navajo peoples, who recognized this unique location as one of the very few points across hundreds of miles where easy access to the Colorado River was possible from both banks. This inherent geographical advantage made it an indispensable site for trade, travel, and settlement for millennia.
The Domínguez-Escalante Expedition and the Quest for a River Crossing
The first recorded European encounter with the area occurred in the 18th century with the Domínguez-Escalante expedition. Tasked with discovering an overland route between Spanish settlements in New Mexico and California, the party found themselves in what is now southern Utah, low on supplies and needing to cross the formidable Colorado River. Their Native American guides pointed them to two potential fords: one at the future site of Lees Ferry and another upstream in Glen Canyon.
Upon reaching Lees Ferry in October 1776, the explorers quickly determined the river was too wide and deep for a safe crossing. This forced them to journey more than 40 miles upstream to the second ford, where they successfully navigated the river nearly two weeks later, eventually returning to Santa Fe on January 2, 1777.
Mormon Pioneers and Early Conflict
Decades later, in March 1864, Mormon pioneer Jacob Hamblin achieved the first successful European crossing at the confluence of the Paria River and the Colorado. Using a raft, Hamblin and his 15 men, along with their supplies and horses, traversed the river at the very point that would become Lees Ferry. Hamblin’s mission was twofold: to warn the Navajo people in northern Arizona against raiding Mormon settlements in Utah and to facilitate Mormon expansion into lands they considered “unsettled,” driven by the principles of Manifest Destiny, despite the extensive history of native occupation.
The escalating tensions between Native Americans and Mormon settlers, particularly with Paiute raids on Anglo settlements, led the Mormons to establish defensive outposts. During the winter of 1869-1870, guards were stationed at the Ute Ford/Crossing of the Fathers and at “Pahreah Crossing,” which later evolved into the strategic site of Lees Ferry.
John D. Lee and the Establishment of the Ferry Service
A pivotal moment arrived in September 1870 when Jacob Hamblin guided a significant expedition, including Major John Wesley Powell, Mormon church president Brigham Young, and Mormon leader John D. Lee. This meeting led to the critical decision to send John D. Lee to establish a permanent ferry crossing. Lee’s assignment also served another, more controversial purpose: it provided him with a measure of seclusion following his involvement in the infamous Mountain Meadows Massacre. Lee, excommunicated and made a scapegoat for the brutal murder of 120 eastern emigrants, found refuge in the remoteness of the ferry site, a situation the Church of Latter-Day Saints quietly tolerated.
John D. Lee arrived at the remote location with two of his wives and children, founding a small, isolated settlement they christened Lonely Dell. Here, he diligently constructed stone and wooden homes, alongside a crucial dam and irrigation system to support farming. The Mormon Church provided essential lumber and manpower, culminating in the launch of the first dedicated ferryboat at Lees Ferry on January 11, 1873. This vessel marked the beginning of a long line of boats that would brave the often-treacherous and unpredictable waters of the Colorado River at this vital crossing.
Growth, Gold, and the Ferry’s Evolution
Despite the initial lack of developed approach roads, wagonloads of colonists soon began arriving, eager to be ferried across the Colorado River to establish new lives in Mormon settlements throughout Arizona. The resurgence of tensions between Mormons and the Navajo in 1874 prompted the construction of a defensive fort, which later transformed into a trading post, then a residence, school, and mess hall. The Lees Ferry Fort stands today as one of the few original historic buildings still intact at the site.
In 1877, John D. Lee faced trial for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. As the only Mormon held accountable for the involvement of over 50 men, he was found guilty and executed by firing squad on March 28, 1877.
Following Lee’s execution, the operation of the ferry passed to his capable wife, Emma Lee. For several years, she skillfully managed both the ferry service and the ranch. Recognizing the increasing importance of Lees Ferry as a crucial link between their Utah and Arizona settlements, the Mormon Church purchased the ferry rights from Emma Lee for $3,000 in 1879. Warren Marshall Johnson and his plural families were then dispatched to oversee the operations. In 1896, Jim Emett took control, significantly improving safety by installing a cable across the Colorado River to prevent boats from being swept downstream during periods of high water. During this era, a series of gold strikes in southern Utah, beginning in 1889, further attracted prospectors and settlers to Lees Ferry and its surrounding region.
The End of an Era: From Ferry to Bridge
The ferry continued its essential service into the late 1920s, playing a critical role in transporting materials for the construction of a bridge intended to span the river. However, this pivotal period was marred by tragedy. In June 1928, the ferryboat capsized, resulting in the drowning of three men and the loss of a Ford Model T. This devastating accident marked the end of the ferry’s operational history; it was never replaced. Just seven months later, the first Navajo Bridge was successfully completed approximately four miles downstream, permanently altering the crossing dynamics of the Colorado River.
Lees Ferry Today: A Gateway to Adventure and History
Today, the site of Lees Ferry remains a significant and accessible destination, renowned as a premier fishing and boat launching point within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. It serves as the primary starting location for exhilarating whitewater rafting trips through the incomparable Grand Canyon. Notably, it is the only place within Glen Canyon where visitors can drive directly to the Colorado River, a remarkable distinction along more than 700 miles of rugged canyon country.
Upstream from the modern launch ramp, visitors can explore the original ferry crossing site and several well-preserved historic buildings. Of particular interest are the remains of Charles H. Spencer’s ambitious gold extraction efforts from the clay hills in 1910. Two stone buildings, a steam boiler, and the haunting remnants of a sunken paddlewheel steamboat bear witness to his endeavors. A scenic two-mile round trip trail traverses mixed terrain, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in this rich history.
Accessing Lees Ferry is straightforward: it is located 42 miles from Page, Arizona, via Hwy 89 South and Hwy 89A West. The Lees Ferry Junction and Park Entrance are situated in Marble Canyon, just west of the Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center. A well-maintained paved road extends five miles to the ferry area, where amenities such as a campground, dump station, and public launch ramp are available, making it a convenient and compelling destination for history buffs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
From its ancient origins as a Native American crossing to its role as a critical Mormon pioneer ferry and a site of tragic gold rush dreams, Lees Ferry represents a crucible of American Western history. It is a place where monumental geological forces meet human perseverance, conflict, and innovation. Today, as a beloved gateway to the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry continues to beckon adventurers and historians, offering a tangible connection to the rugged spirit that shaped this extraordinary landscape and the enduring legacy of those who traversed its waters.
