Perched high above the vast New Mexico landscape, Johnson Mesa stands as a testament to the pioneering spirit that once thrived in the American West. This elevated plateau, a land of stark beauty and rich history, offers a glimpse into a bygone era where hardy settlers carved out a life against formidable odds. Exploring Johnson Mesa today reveals not just stunning vistas but also the poignant echoes of a vibrant community that once flourished on its expansive plains.
Located approximately 16 miles east of Raton, New Mexico, along the winding New Mexico Highway 72, Johnson Mesa is a significant stretch of the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway. As the road ascends through coal-bearing canyons, often presenting travelers with unexpected wildlife sightings of deer, turkey, and bear, it eventually opens up to breathtaking panoramic views of the lower elevations. This dramatic ascent culminates in the arrival upon an immense, high-altitude plain, an almost 100-square-mile expanse known as Johnson Mesa.
The Geography and Early Pioneers of Johnson Mesa
Geographically, Johnson Mesa is an impressive formation, stretching approximately 14 miles from east to west and varying between 2 to 6 miles in width from north to south. This elevated, grassy plateau majestically sits about 2,000 feet above the valley floor, creating a unique microclimate and landscape. The very name of this remarkable land pays homage to its first recorded white settler, Elijah “Lige” Johnson.
Around 1882, Lige Johnson established a ranch within what became known as Johnson Park, an area situated below the south rim of the mesa that served as the earliest accessible route to the plateau. It was here that he began pasturing cattle, laying the groundwork for future settlement and inadvertently lending his name to both the park and the sprawling mesa above. Johnson’s pioneering efforts underscored the potential of this high-altitude grazing land, attracting others to consider its possibilities.
The Rise and Flourishing Community of Bell
The true settlement of the mesa began in earnest around 1887, when Marion Bell, a railroad construction worker, led a contingent of fellow workers and miners to the mesa top. Seeking a more stable and predictable life away from the transient nature of railroad work and the fluctuating demands of mining, these families filed for homesteads and embarked on a new chapter as farmers. The community they established, originally known for its agricultural prowess, cultivated a diverse array of crops including potatoes, oats, grain, vegetables, and hay, eventually expanding into cattle ranching, which capitalized on the mesa’s abundant grasslands.
Interestingly, some of the miners who had migrated from the Blossburg mining camp near Raton attempted to maintain both occupations. The Blossburg Mine was known for its intermittent operations and occasional labor disputes, leading to temporary closures. In a testament to the ingenuity of the era, carrier pigeons were utilized to convey messages from Blossburg up to the mesa, notifying miners when their labor was required once more in the Raton Valley. This dual livelihood speaks to the resilience and adaptability of the early settlers on Johnson Mesa.
The growing settlement on the mesa was formally named Bell, in honor of Marion Bell. Its development accelerated with the establishment of a post office in 1891, operating out of a small general store that served as a central hub for the burgeoning community. As more families arrived, it was not uncommon for every 160 acres of land to be inhabited, illustrating a dense, thriving population for such a remote area. The spiritual heart of the community was cemented with the construction of the St. John’s Methodist Episcopal Church in 1899, a landmark that still stands today.
Life on Johnson Mesa was characterized by a strong sense of community and celebration. At its peak, the area boasted five scattered schools, ensuring that education was accessible to the children of the homesteaders. Residents came together annually on August 14th to commemorate the dedication of the church, a significant social event. Additionally, the Fourth of July was a day of lively festivities, featuring horse races, foot races, and thrilling rodeos. Summer evenings were often filled with music and laughter, as weekly dances were held at a dedicated pavilion atop a large hay barn, fostering a vibrant social fabric.
By approximately 1900, the town of Bell reached its zenith, with a recorded population of 487 residents, embodying the hopes and dreams of those who sought a new life on the high plains of New Mexico. The vision of a self-sufficient farming and ranching community on Johnson Mesa had, for a time, become a prosperous reality.
Challenges, Decline, and the Echoes of a Vanished Era
Despite its initial prosperity and the sheer determination of its inhabitants, life on Johnson Mesa was inherently challenging. The severe winters proved to be a constant battle, frequently rendering residents snowbound for weeks on end, isolating them from the outside world. While the warmer months brought an abundance of grass, water resources were often scarce, posing a continuous struggle for both farming and ranching operations. These persistent difficulties, particularly the harsh, prolonged cold seasons, eventually compelled many farmers to abandon their endeavors.
The initial signs of decline became evident by 1910, when the population of Bell had decreased to 335. This downward trend was further exacerbated by a series of devastating events. The global 1918 flu epidemic took a heavy toll, and the ongoing arduous farming conditions continued to chip away at the community’s resilience. By 1920, the population had dwindled significantly to approximately 215 residents. The exodus continued steadily, and by 1933, a poignant symbol of Bell’s fading life, its post office, was permanently closed.
Today, the once-thriving town of Bell is largely a ghost of its former self. All that visibly remain of the old settlement are a few deserted farm buildings, the stoic St. John Methodist Episcopal Church, and the silent, enduring cemetery. These remnants stand as solemn markers of a community that, despite its earnest efforts and periods of prosperity, ultimately succumbed to the unforgiving realities of its remote and challenging environment. The high plains that once bustled with life are now primarily used for seasonal cattle grazing, a quiet continuation of one of the mesa’s original purposes.
Johnson Mesa Today: A Journey Through History and Scenery
For modern visitors, Johnson Mesa remains an incredibly compelling destination, offering both a journey through history and spectacular natural beauty. It continues to be an integral part of the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, inviting travelers to immerse themselves in its tranquil, expansive landscape. The drive eastward on Highway 72 past the remnants of Bell leads to the charming town of Folsom, located approximately 19 miles further. The descent from the mesa provides truly breathtaking vistas, showcasing the dramatic geological features of the region.
Exploring the historical sites, such as the old church and cemetery, offers a profound connection to the past, allowing one to reflect on the lives of those who once called this isolated plateau home. The serene emptiness of the mesa today contrasts sharply with its vibrant past, making it a powerful testament to the ebb and flow of human settlement in the American West. Johnson Mesa is more than just a geographical feature; it is a living, breathing historical archive, silently narrating tales of ambition, struggle, and resilience.
Conclusion: The Enduring Spirit of Johnson Mesa
From its naming after pioneer Elijah Johnson to the rise and eventual decline of the Bell settlement, Johnson Mesa embodies a compelling chapter in New Mexico’s rich history. It serves as a vivid reminder of the challenges and triumphs faced by those who sought to tame the wild frontiers. The quiet beauty of its high plains, dotted with the solemn vestiges of a once-thriving community, continues to captivate those who venture along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway. As visitors traverse this historic land, they not only witness stunning landscapes but also connect with the enduring spirit of human endeavor against the backdrop of an awe-inspiring natural world. The legacy of Johnson Mesa, though often overlooked, remains a powerful narrative of resilience and the relentless pursuit of opportunity in a demanding environment.
