Nestled in the breathtaking San Juan Mountains, Henson, Colorado, stands today as a poignant testament to the region’s intense mining era. This captivating ghost town, located just 3.5 miles west of Lake City along the scenic Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway, whispers tales of fortune, struggle, and a vibrant past. The story of Henson, Colorado, is inextricably linked to the legendary Ute-Ulay Mine, a powerhouse that fueled both dreams and disputes in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
The roots of Henson trace back to 1871, when prospectors Joel Mullen, Albert Mead, and Henry Henson first unearthed valuable minerals in the area. This discovery followed closely on the heels of the 1869 Brunot Treaty, which facilitated the removal of the Ute Indians from the San Juan Mountains and opened the pristine lands to an influx of eager settlers and prospectors. Two years later, in 1874, Mullen, Mead, Henry Henson, and Charles Godwin formally staked their claims, with the most significant mine named Ute-Ulay, a phonetic homage to how the Ute Indians pronounced the name of their esteemed leader, Chief Ouray. These Ute-Ulay claims along Henson Creek marked the very first registered mining claims in Hinsdale County, setting the stage for a dramatic boom.
The Crooke Brothers Era and Early Challenges
Despite their initial success, the original owners of the Ute-Ulay claims lacked the substantial financing required for extensive development. Consequently, in the summer of 1876, they sold their interest to the London-based Crooke Mining and Smelting Company for a considerable sum of $125,000. Led by brothers John J. and Lewis Crooke, the company, often referred to as the Crooke Brothers, also held significant mining properties in Summitville and Lake City. Under their stewardship, the Ute-Ulay mine began serious production, acting as a powerful catalyst for the growth of nearby Lake City, which saw its population swell to 1,000 by November 1876.
Further enhancing the region’s accessibility, the famed ‘Pathfinder of the San Juan,’ Otto Mears, completed a vital toll road through the area in 1877, connecting Lake City with Silverton and Ouray. By 1878, Crooke Mining had established essential infrastructure around the Ute-Ulay complex, including miners’ quarters, a shaft, ore houses, and a concentrating mill. It was around this burgeoning complex that the settlement, aptly named Henson in honor of one of its discoverers, began to take shape. The town of Henson was formally platted in 1880 on the north side of Henson Creek, primarily housing workers from the Ute-Ulay and Hidden Treasure mines. Notably, Henson was never officially incorporated.
However, the early years were not without significant hurdles. Although new concentration works were built in 1882, the absence of a railroad presented a severe and costly transportation problem. A dam was constructed on Henson Creek around this time to meet the site’s escalating energy demands. The Henson post office opened in May 1883, only to close a year later in April 1884, following a temporary shutdown of the mine. That winter, Henson Creek froze solid, crippling the Ute-Ulay’s energy supply. The mill ceased operations, and the Crooke brothers defaulted on their mortgage, plunging Lake City into a full-scale economic depression.
Resurgence, Railroads, and a Flourishing Community
The struggling site found new life when it was sold to the Lake City Mining Company, which invested heavily in the Ute-Ulay complex over the next three years. In 1887, the Ute-Ulay mine recommenced shipping ore, but persistent low ore prices and exorbitant shipping costs rendered it unprofitable. A true turning point arrived with the extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to Lake City, finally connecting Henson and other area mining towns to broader markets, ushering in an era of newfound prosperity.
Despite this broader improvement, the Lake City Mining Company eventually defaulted on its mortgage in 1890. Production, however, continued under a new British entity, Ute and Ulay Mines, Ltd. During this period, a new 118-foot hydroelectric dam was constructed on Henson Creek to provide power for the bustling mill. The early 1890s saw Henson, Colorado, truly flourish, boasting a population of approximately 300 residents. The vibrant town featured three saloons, a school, a barbershop, several grocery stores, and a local branch of the Western Federation of Miners, a powerful labor union that attracted many San Juan miners. The post office was happily re-established in November 1892, reflecting the town’s resurgence.
The financial landscape shifted dramatically in 1893 when the U.S. Government demonetized silver, forcing the Ute-Ulay to halt production in early August. Facing dire financial straits, the owners leased the mines to the Ute and Ulay Mines Leasing Company, and production soon resumed. During this challenging time, the area’s population and economy remarkably continued to grow, sustained by the diverse array of valuable minerals produced by local mines.
The “Little Rome” and the 1899 Miners’ Strike
In a final attempt to secure profitability, Ute and Ulay Mines, Ltd. acquired the Hidden Treasure Mine, situated just uphill from the Ute-Ulay site, in February 1896. This effort proved insufficient, leading to the mine’s lease to the Auric Mining Company of Leadville, Colorado. The operation of such extensive mines required a substantial workforce, attracting relatively cheap labor in the form of immigrants from across Europe, including England, Ireland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Germany, and Italy. This influx transformed Henson into a remarkably diverse community.
Many Italian immigrants, having previously worked on railroad construction, settled in the area to work in the mines. They formed one of the largest foreign groups, establishing a distinct community south of Henson Creek known as “Little Rome,” where they even published their own newspaper, La Verita. These Italian workers were prominent members of the Western Federation of Miners (WFM) and actively championed unionization efforts within the mines. However, the Auric Mining Company, familiar with WFM disputes from their Leadville operations, showed little tolerance for collective labor demands.
Tensions reached a boiling point when Samuel Nicholson, a key figure in the Auric Mining Company, mandated that all single men working at the Ute-Ulay and Hidden Treasure Mines must reside in company-owned boarding houses. Nicholson attributed much of the prevailing lawlessness and frequent shootings in Henson to single men, and generally viewed WFM members as contributing to this disorder. This declaration ignited fierce anger among union members, as it meant higher rents, often deplorable living conditions, and longer commutes for many single men.
On March 14, 1899, approximately 100 heavily armed miners, predominantly Italian, initiated a strike. They effectively blocked entrances to both the Ute-Ulay and Hidden Treasure Mines, actively intimidating other miners attempting to report for work. Prior to the strike, the protestors had covertly acquired numerous firearms, and suspiciously, the Lake City Armory had been robbed of 50 rifles and thousands of rounds of ammunition. Faced with an armed standoff and an empty armory, the Lake City sheriff urgently wired Governor Charles Thomas for assistance. The governor responded swiftly, dispatching six companies of the state militia to Lake City. Accompanying the 326 troops was Joseph Cuneo, the Italian consul, who successfully negotiated with the striking miners.
The strike concluded peacefully after two days, without bloodshed. However, all striking miners were promptly fired and ordered to vacate Hinsdale County. Single men were given one week to leave, while those with families were allotted six weeks. Subsequent advertisements for replacement workers explicitly stated that “Italians need not apply.” Despite this contentious labor dispute, the Ute-Ulay and Hidden Treasure Mines continued to be profitable, leading the Auric Mining Company to purchase them outright in 1901.
Decline, Abandonment, and Modern Preservation
The early 20th century marked the beginning of the end for Henson, Colorado, and its once-dominant mines. Although other mines on Henson Creek maintained some level of production, the Ute-Ulay Mine had consistently been the most significant, generating an astonishing $12 million in gold, silver, lead, copper, and zinc between 1891 and 1903 alone. By 1910, Henson’s population had dwindled to 100 inhabitants, and its post office permanently closed in November 1913.
Over the subsequent decades, the mines changed hands and were leased multiple times, with intermittent mining operations continuing until the 1960s. The mill itself saw use as late as 1983. During these years, considerable improvements were made to the site, including the construction of a new mill by 1930. The railroad, which had brought such prosperity, faced its own decline. After a significant drop in mining activity in the mid-1920s, the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad’s Lake City branch began losing money. Efforts to abandon the line in 1931 were met with strong protests, but the Public Utilities Commission eventually allowed the cessation of service. The last train departed Lake City on May 25, 1933. The Ute-Ulay Mine owners briefly attempted to operate the line as the San Cristobal Railroad using a ‘galloping goose’ (a flange-wheeled automobile) but abandoned the venture in 1935, and the rails were sold for scrap. The mines experienced a final burst of activity during World War II, producing at their peak to support the war effort.
A significant environmental incident occurred in 1973 when the dam on Henson Creek broke, releasing metallics and chemicals into the water, resulting in the deaths of hundreds of fish for 14 miles downstream. In 1983, the site was sold for the last time to LKA Minerals of Lake City, which, although performing no new mining, processed ore from other area mines for a brief period. A comprehensive $1.2 million cleanup and reclamation project was undertaken in 2009, and in 2013, LKA Minerals transferred 12 acres surrounding the Ute-Ulay site to Hinsdale County.
Henson Today: A Historic Legacy Preserved
Today, the Ute-Ulay mining complex is proudly listed on the National Register of Historic Places, recognized as one of Colorado’s most impeccably preserved historic mining communities. Visitors to this captivating site can embark on self-guided walking tours of the 12-acre property, offering a unique glimpse into the past.
The tours showcase a remarkable array of structures dating back to the late 1800s, when 250-300 miners toiled in the rich silver veins of the Ute-Ulay mines. Notable surviving buildings include several headframes, hoists, an assay lab, a powerhouse, and various mill buildings. Residential cabins, a blacksmith shop, a boarding house, a distinctive red-cedar water tank, and an assayer’s office further bring the history of Henson, Colorado, to life. The enduring remains of Henson and the Ute-Ulay mine and milling complex are easily accessible, located on the north side of Henson Creek, a mere 3.5 miles west of Lake City, Colorado.
The enduring legacy of Henson, Colorado, serves as a powerful reminder of the relentless pursuit of mineral wealth that shaped the American West. From its humble beginnings to its bustling peak and eventual decline, Henson encapsulates the triumphs, struggles, and human stories that defined a pivotal era. As visitors wander through its preserved structures, they connect with a tangible piece of history, appreciating the resilience and diverse tapestry of the communities that once thrived in these rugged mountains. Henson remains a vital historical landmark, inviting all to explore its rich past and appreciate its quiet, enduring presence.
