Nestled on the serene south bank of the majestic Columbia River, just seven miles from its expansive mouth, lies the historic site of **Fort Astoria**, Oregon. This pivotal location served as the primary fur trading post for John Jacob Astor’s ambitious Pacific Fur Company, marking a significant chapter in the early American expansion into the Pacific Northwest. Its establishment represented a bold strategic move, not only for commerce but also for asserting American presence on a continent still largely unclaimed and unexplored.
John Jacob Astor, a German immigrant who rose to become one of America’s wealthiest men, harbored an extraordinary vision: to establish a transcontinental fur trading empire. He aimed to control the lucrative fur trade from the Great Lakes all the way to the Pacific Ocean, and then extend it across the Pacific to China. To achieve this monumental goal, Astor established the Pacific Fur Company in 1810 as a subsidiary of his already powerful American Fur Company. This new venture was specifically tasked with building a network of commercial stations along the Pacific Coast.
The Ambitious Astor Expedition: Charting a Course to the Pacific
Astor’s plan was audacious. He sought to create a supply chain and trading network that would span vast distances, requiring a dual approach to reach the remote Pacific Coast. He shrewdly recruited experienced partners and employees from his formidable rival, the Montreal-based North West Company, including seasoned figures like Donald Mackenzie, Alexander MacKay, and Duncan McDougall. These individuals brought invaluable knowledge of the fur trade, wilderness survival, and relations with Native American tribes, even if their loyalties were sometimes divided.
The Astor Expedition, launched in 1810, was designed to establish the very first permanent U.S. settlement on the Pacific coast. This grand undertaking involved two major detachments. One, a maritime contingent of Pacific Fur Company staff, embarked on a perilous voyage aboard the ship *Tonquin*. Their mission was to round Cape Horn, navigate the treacherous waters of the Pacific, and reach the mouth of the Columbia River by sea, laden with supplies and trade goods.
The *Tonquin*, under the command of Captain Jonathan Thorn, was a small, ill-fated vessel. After enduring a long and difficult journey, the ship finally surveyed the mouth of the Columbia River. On April 12, 1811, 33 men disembarked to begin the arduous task of establishing a settlement. Their landing marked a symbolic moment, signifying America’s westward ambition reaching the very edge of the continent.
Simultaneously, another party of Astor’s employees embarked on an overland journey from St. Louis, Missouri. This expedition was to follow a route similar to the legendary Lewis and Clark Expedition, facing immense challenges including harsh wilderness, unforgiving weather, and interactions with various Native American groups. The ultimate goal was for both parties to converge at the designated site on the Columbia River, ensuring a robust and well-supplied outpost.
Building a Foothold: The Birth of Fort Astoria
By May 1811, despite the formidable challenges of establishing a remote settlement, the dedicated company employees had successfully begun construction of Fort Astoria. The fort was strategically positioned on the south bank of the Columbia River, a location chosen for its access to both riverine trade routes and the rich natural resources of the surrounding region. It was built with sturdy bark-covered logs, forming an enclosed stockade designed to offer defense against potential threats, with guns strategically mounted along its perimeter.
This pioneering settlement was constructed on the traditional lands of the Clatsop and Chinook peoples, who had long inhabited the lower Columbia River region. The establishment of **Fort Astoria** thus initiated a complex period of trade, cooperation, and occasional tension between the indigenous populations and the arriving American settlers. It holds immense historical significance as the *first American-owned settlement* on the Pacific coast of North America, laying a crucial claim for the young United States.
A notable encounter occurred in 1811 when David Thompson, a renowned explorer and cartographer for the North West Company, became the first European to navigate the entire length of the Columbia River. He reached the partially constructed Fort Astoria, arriving approximately two months after the Pacific Fur Company’s ship, the *Tonquin*. Thompson’s presence underscored the intense rivalry between British and American interests in controlling the lucrative fur trade of the Pacific Northwest.
When the overland party finally joined their maritime counterparts in February 1812, the fort had grown substantially. The industrious Pacific Fur Company laborers had constructed a trading store, a blacksmith’s shop essential for repairs and tool making, a comfortable house for the partners, and a secure storage shed for the valuable pelts acquired through trapping or trade with the local Native Americans. Cannons were arranged around the perimeter, serving as a deterrent and a symbol of the fort’s strategic importance. Beyond its role as a trading hub, Fort Astoria functioned as an administrative center, overseeing a network of satellite forts like Fort Okanogan, which extended Astor’s influence deeper into the interior.
Life within the fort was structured by a strict corporate hierarchy, reflecting the diverse backgrounds and roles of its inhabitants. At the apex were the fur-trading partners of the Pacific Fur Company, seasoned entrepreneurs and leaders. Below them were the clerks, who managed records and trade. Further down the ladder were skilled craftsmen, essential for the fort’s self-sufficiency, followed by the intrepid hunters and, finally, the numerous laborers who performed the daily manual tasks of maintaining the outpost and handling the furs. This diverse community, often composed of Americans, French Canadians, Native Americans, and later, Hawaiians, created a unique cultural melting pot on the frontier.
From American Outpost to British Stronghold: The War of 1812 and Fort George
The burgeoning American enterprise at Fort Astoria faced an existential threat with the outbreak of the War of 1812. The conflict severed vital supply lines and exposed the fort’s extreme isolation from any military protection or support from the United States. Recognizing the untenable position of his distant outpost, John Jacob Astor made the difficult decision to sell the assets of the Pacific Fur Company.
In a strategic move that solidified British control over the regional fur trade, the Montreal-based North West Company acquired Fort Astoria in 1813. The fort was promptly renamed **Fort George**, in honor of King George III. Under its new ownership, it became the headquarters for the North West Company’s most western operations, focusing primarily on the rich fur-bearing territories along the Columbia River and its tributaries. This transaction dramatically shifted the balance of power in the Pacific Northwest.
Under the North West Company’s stewardship, Fort George underwent significant expansion and fortification. Its original footprint, which measured 150 by 150 feet, was enlarged to a more substantial 190 by 210 feet. A massive 170-foot-long warehouse was constructed to accommodate the ever-increasing volume of furs and trade goods. The fort’s defenses were also greatly enhanced, featuring an impressive arsenal that included six 6-pound cannons, four 4-pound cannons, two 6-pound mortars, and seven swivels, making it a formidable presence on the river.
The North West Company also invested in expanding agricultural fields around the fort, aiming for greater self-sufficiency. By 1817, the personnel stationed at Fort George had swelled to 150 individuals, the majority of whom were French Canadian voyageurs, essential for their trapping and transportation skills. Notably, the workforce also included approximately 30 Hawaiian laborers, known as Kanakas, who played a crucial role in various tasks at the fort. At this time, the North West Company faced virtually no competition for the land-based fur trade in the region, and Fort George solidified its position as an essential port of call for the wider Maritime Fur Trade, connecting the interior to global markets.
The geopolitical landscape of the Pacific Northwest remained complex. The Treaty of 1818, signed between the United States and Great Britain, established a unique period of joint U.S.-British occupation of the territory west of the continental divide all the way to the Pacific Ocean. This agreement allowed both nations to operate and claim land, creating a shared but often competitive environment. Around this time, Fort George maintained a staff of about 50 employees, with over half still being Hawaiian Kanakas, highlighting the diverse and international nature of the fur trade workforce.
The Hudson’s Bay Company Era and Shifting Fortunes
Further consolidation of British power came in 1821 when the venerable Hudson’s Bay Company absorbed its rival, the North West Company. As a result, **Fort George** was incorporated into the vast collection of Hudson’s Bay Company posts. It continued to serve as the primary post of the Columbia Department, overseeing a wide array of trading activities throughout the region, for several years.
However, the Hudson’s Bay Company, under the astute leadership of Governor George Simpson, began to re-evaluate the strategic location of its operations. Fort George, while historically significant, had certain drawbacks. Simpson sought a more central location with better agricultural land and less vulnerability to potential military threats. This led to the planned opening of Fort Vancouver in 1825, situated further up the Columbia River. Upon its completion, Fort Vancouver became the new, better-located headquarters for the Columbia Department, and Fort George was consequently abandoned as a major trading post. For a period, neighboring native villagers began to reside there seasonally, reclaiming parts of the former fort for their own uses.
The abandonment was not permanent, however. The growing presence of American naval merchants and traders on the Columbia River necessitated the reopening of Fort George in 1829. The Hudson’s Bay Company realized it needed a presence at the mouth of the river to monitor and engage with American commercial activities. The process of reopening and rebuilding was challenging; the dilapidated condition of the site required extensive repairs, forcing the sole clerk assigned to the post to live in a tent during the harsh winter months.
Despite these difficulties, the fort was gradually rebuilt, albeit on a more modest scale. The new structure measured approximately 20 feet wide by 60 feet long, accompanied by two minor buildings and a small warehouse. It transitioned from a grand administrative hub to a specialized outpost, primarily utilized as a fishery station and a smaller outer depot focused on trade with local Native American communities on the lower river. Its importance was further underscored after the sinking of two Hudson’s Bay Company ships—the *William* and the *Ann*—at the mouth of the Columbia. This tragedy highlighted the need for a permanent trading post to guide ships safely inland, ensuring the continuity of trade and supply. From 1830 onwards, the company continuously maintained a presence at the location, albeit in a reduced capacity.
Throughout the 1830s and 1840s, Fort George served a vital, albeit secondary, role for the Hudson’s Bay Company. In 1833, the post typically had a small staff of about four members, including an English clerk, a Scottish field manager, and two Hawaiians. A succession of managing officers oversaw its operations. The company’s growing salmon-harvesting operations became a central focus, particularly around the rich fisheries near Fort George. The abundant salmon was crucial for feeding company employees across its vast network and was also a valuable export commodity, primarily shipped to markets in the Kingdom of Hawaii, illustrating the global reach of the fur trade economy.
Decline, American Influx, and Enduring Legacy
The dwindling military significance and the fort’s transformation into a more modest trading outpost were eloquently captured by Captain Edward Belcher of the visiting *HMS Sulphur* in 1838. He described the post as merely
