Journey into the stark, beautiful landscape of California’s most iconic desert as we explore the captivating Death Valley Ghost Towns and mines. These desolate yet historically rich sites offer a window into a bygone era of intrepid prospectors, arduous labor, and boom-and-bust cycles. From borax operations to precious metal mines, the ghost towns of Death Valley tell a compelling story of human resilience and ambition against nature’s extremes.
The Enduring Legacy of Borax Mining
The history of Death Valley ghost towns is inextricably linked to the region’s rich borax deposits. Borax mining was a brutal yet profitable endeavor, attracting thousands to this remote corner of California.
Amargosa Borax Works
Located on the west side of Death Valley, the Amargosa Borax Works served as a crucial summer processing facility, complementing the larger Harmony Borax Works. When intense summer heat made operations at Harmony untenable, workers and equipment shifted to Amargosa, ensuring year-round production. Active for four years, until 1888, this site relied on the iconic 20-mule teams to transport its valuable borax to the nearest railroad. Today, visitors can find the faint remnants of two adobe walls, pieces of the mill foundation, and an informational sign along State Road 127, about five miles south of Shoshone.
Eagle Borax Works
Another significant, though short-lived, borax venture was the Eagle Borax Works. Established in 1881 by Frenchman Isadore Daunet, this small-scale operation managed to ship an impressive 260,000 pounds of borax between 1882 and 1883. However, the unforgiving summer temperatures and fierce competition proved too challenging, leading to its closure in 1884. The failure of such enterprises highlights the immense difficulties faced by early miners in this harsh environment.
Boom and Bust: Gold and Silver Mining Settlements
Beyond borax, the lure of gold and silver drew countless prospectors, creating numerous ephemeral settlements that now stand as historic ghost towns.
Ashford Mine and Mill
Also known as the Golden Treasure Mine, the Ashford Mine was established in 1907. Though never a major producer, this gold mining operation in southern Death Valley offers a challenging yet rewarding hike. An arduous 1.25-mile trek up an 1,100-foot canyon leads to standing buildings, an ore chute, other mining remains, and spectacular views of the valley. The ruins of Ashford Mill itself are remarkably situated 3,500 feet below the Death Valley floor, a testament to the extreme conditions miners faced.
Ballarat
A quintessential ghost town today, Ballarat was founded in 1896 as a vital supply hub for the mines of the Panamint Range. Its fortunes were tied to the Radcliffe Mine in Pleasant Canyon, which produced 15,000 tons of gold ore between 1898 and 1903. While largely deserted, Ballarat still hosts a handful of full-time residents, alongside crumbling walls, foundations, and old miners’ cabins, painting a vivid picture of its past.
Cerro Gordo, California
Nestled high in the Inyo Mountains, the Cerro Gordo Mines were extraordinarily rich, yielding high-grade silver, lead, and zinc from 1866 until 1957. The immense production here directly led to the establishment of towns like Swansea and Keeler, and the development of crucial transportation networks below, including steamboat ports on Owens Lake. Cerro Gordo stands as one of the most significant mining districts in California’s history, a true cornerstone of the region’s mineral wealth.
Chrysopolis
Meaning “City of Gold” in Greek, Chrysopolis was founded in 1863 on the east bank of the Owens River. It flourished briefly as one of the earliest towns in the Owens Valley, even operating a post office from 1866-67. However, its isolation and persistent conflicts with indigenous populations led to its abandonment before Fort Independence was established. While a prospecting craze at the turn of the century revived interest in the mining district, the town itself never returned. Today, only loose stone walls and mine tunnels remain, with an inaccessible mill site on the west side of the Owens River. The old townsite is located about 18 miles north of Independence, California, via US-395 and Aberdeen Station Road.
Clair Camp
Situated up Pleasant Canyon from Ballarat, Clair Camp emerged near Henry Ratcliff’s Never Give Up Mine and the Montgomery brothers’ World Beater Mine, both active by 1896. Initially a small camp at Post Office Springs, it grew into a bustling settlement with a blacksmith and assay office. When these mines employed around 200 men, Ballarat was established to accommodate the growing population. After the Ratcliff Mine suspended operations in 1905, W.D. Clair bought it in 1930, successfully extracting another $60,000 in gold ore from the tailings, thus renaming the site Clair Camp. Remnants include the mill site and living quarters, with tram towers and cables leading to the mine still visible, though unfortunately, the site has suffered from vandalism.
Coso Junction (Coso, Oasis)
The Coso Springs area saw its first rush in March 1860 when Dr. Darwin French’s expedition, searching for the Lost Gunsight Mine, instead discovered rich silver and gold ore. M.H. Farley and others quickly formed the Coso Gold and Silver Mining Company. By June, 500 men had stormed the area, with some mines assaying over $2,000 per ton in silver. The Coso Mining District was plagued by conflicts with local indigenous groups who cherished the hot springs, eventually leading to abandonment by white miners. Mexicans reorganized the district in 1868, with sporadic production into the 1890s. A mercury mining flurry occurred in the 1930s. Today, nothing remains of the settlement, and Coso Hot Springs lies within the United States Naval Weapons Center at China Lake.
Unique Settlements and Infrastructure
Not all sites were purely mining camps; some served as crucial support infrastructure or had unique historical significance.
Arrastre Spring
More renowned for its historic petroglyphs than its mining past, Arrastre Spring lies within the Gold Hill Mining District. This site offers a glimpse into the ancient human history of the region, predating the mining boom.
Barker Ranch
Infamously known as the hideout for Charles Manson and his followers, Barker Ranch is located in a remote, rock-filled valley in the Panamint Range. In October 1969, law enforcement officers, while investigating vandalism in Death Valley National Park, serendipitously apprehended Manson and his group here. A 2009 fire destroyed most of the main cabin, leaving only its cement and rock foundations. A small guest house remains, but access to this historically grim site requires a four-wheel drive due to rugged, sandy roads, about twenty miles from the nearest paved route.
Bend City
One of the earliest townsites on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, Bend City was established in April 1860 within the Russ Mining District, on a large bend of the Owens River. It was notable for having the first bridge across the Owens River. However, its brief existence was cut short by the devastating 1872 Lone Pine earthquake, which not only destroyed the settlement but also diverted the river’s course. No traces of Bend City remain near modern-day Kearsarge.
Beveridge
An isolated mining camp high in the Inyo Mountain Range, Beveridge Canyon saw mining activity from the 1860s to the 1930s. Despite its extreme remoteness at over 5,500 feet elevation, it even had a post office from 1881-1882. Accessible only by a challenging backpacking trip on the Beveridge Canyon Trail, the site holds remains of small mining equipment, operations, and partial rock structures, recommended for experienced hikers only.
Cartago
Unlike many fully abandoned sites, Cartago, on the west side of Owens Lake, remains a partially populated community today. Formerly known by various names, it began as a steamboat port in the 1870s for shipping wood and ore. Bullion from Cerro Gordo was ferried across Owens Lake on steamers like the Bessie Brado to Cartago, where Remi Nadeau’s 14-mule teams then hauled it to Los Angeles. The town’s enduring presence highlights its historical significance as a transportation nexus.
Cottonwood Charcoal Kilns
Essential to the success of the Cerro Gordo mines, the Cottonwood Charcoal Kilns demonstrate the vast support infrastructure required for mining. Built by Colonel Sherman Stevens in June 1873, these kilns processed lumber from a sawmill high in the Sierras, producing charcoal vital for M. W. Belshaw’s furnaces at Cerro Gordo. This charcoal was transported via Owens Lake on steamers like the Bessie Brady or Mollies Stevens, then hauled up the steep Yellow Grade Road. Today, two well-preserved kilns stand near the west shore of Owens Lake, protected by fencing, located 14.4 miles south of Lone Pine on U.S. Highway 395.
Darwin, California
Once the largest city in Inyo County, Darwin, though now a semi-ghost town, holds a significant place on the western outskirts of Death Valley. Its beginnings trace back to an 1860 prospecting expedition led by Dr. E. Darwin French, who was searching for the fabled Lost Gunsight Mine but instead found “Silver Mountain.” Darwin’s rich deposits made it a bustling center during its heyday.
Death Valley Junction, California
Originally named Amargosa (meaning “bitter water” in Paiute), Death Valley Junction started as a borax mining community. Today, this tiny Mojave Desert settlement, home to fewer than a half-dozen people, preserves historical buildings like the Amargosa Hotel and Opera House, which continue to host visitors, offering a unique blend of history and hospitality amidst the desolation.
Dolomite, California
The southern Inyo Mountain range is home to Dolomite, a site where high-quality dolomitic limestone was discovered in 1862. Development began in earnest with the construction of the Carson & Colorado Railroad in 1883. Drew Haven Dunn filed a mining claim two years later, leading to the opening of the Inyo Marble Company quarry. Named after the minerals mined there, the settlement grew around this industry. Today, F.W. Aggregates continues operations, mining the largest dolomite marble deposit in the United States, used for terrazzo, roofing, landscaping, and chemicals. While a few old buildings remain off California State Route 136, the property is private and marked “no trespassing.”
Dublin Gulch, California
In Shoshone, Dublin Gulch features fascinating cave-dwellings carved into clay cliffs, utilized during Death Valley’s mining boom in the early 1900s. Due to shortages of building materials and money, miners ingeniously created dugouts, some complete with chimneys, doors, split levels, and even garages, offering warmth in winter and coolness in summer. Famous figures like Shorty Harris and the Ashford brothers are said to have used these unique homes. A graveyard also marks the site, located just off Highway 127 and Highway 178 towards Pahrump.
Dunmovin, California
South of Olancha, along California’s Scenic Highway 395, Dunmovin was initially Cowan’s Station, named after homesteader James Cowan in the early 1900s. It served as a freight station for silver ingots from the Cerro Gordo Mines en route to Los Angeles. When the Los Angeles Department of Water & Power abandoned a pipeline after completing their aqueduct in 1913, Cowan’s partner, Charles King, claimed it. Charles and Hilda King bought out Cowan in 1936, renaming it Dunmovin’. A post office briefly operated from 1938-1941, and the town once boasted a roadside service station, store, tourist cabins, and a cafe. Though businesses are now closed and the site is abandoned, it once played a vital role serving travelers on the main route between Los Angeles and Reno.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of Death Valley’s Past
The Death Valley ghost towns and mines stand as powerful reminders of California’s rugged frontier spirit and the relentless pursuit of fortune. Each crumbling structure, each abandoned mine shaft, whispers tales of boom and bust, of human toil against an unforgiving landscape. While many sites are reduced to mere foundations or scattered artifacts, their historical significance remains immense, drawing visitors who seek to connect with this dramatic past. Exploring these sites offers a unique opportunity to step back in time, appreciating the sheer determination of those who once called this challenging desert home, and understanding the profound impact of their efforts on California’s development. Always remember to visit these historic ruins respectfully, preserving them for future generations.
