Tucked away just eight miles west of Rolla, Missouri, lies Arlington Road, Missouri, a segment of the legendary Route 66. This dead-end pathway, though seemingly insignificant today, was once a vital artery for Phelps County and a bustling stop along the iconic Mother Road. Travelers venturing down this short three-mile stretch are rewarded with poignant glimpses into the past, encountering the crumbling remains of historic establishments like John’s Modern Cabins and the quiet desolation of the ghost town of Arlington itself.
For westbound travelers on I-44, the journey to this historical pocket begins by taking Exit #176. Crossing south over the interstate and turning right onto Arlington Outer Road leads to a gravel path after about half a mile, transitioning onto a short, preserved section of old Route 66 pavement. This is where Vernell’s Motel and John’s Modern Cabins once offered respite and services to weary travelers.
The Legacy of Roadside Motels on Arlington Road
Vernell’s Motel: From Tourist Court to Bygone Era
The story of Vernell’s Motel begins in the 1930s with E.P. Gasser’s Tourist Court. Initially, it comprised six simple cabins, a filling station, and a novelty shop, which later expanded to sell groceries and cold sodas. This modest establishment served as a crucial stop for early Route 66 adventurers.
A significant transition occurred in 1952 when E.P. Gasser’s nephew, Fred Gasser, and his wife, Vernelle, took over the property, renaming it Vernell’s Motel. Under their stewardship, the motel flourished, expanding to 12 units, an office, a unique petting zoo, and a popular restaurant. This eatery enticed visitors with a menu of steaks, fried chicken, shrimp, and classic comfort food. However, progress soon brought challenges; in 1957, the widening of Route 66 to four lanes necessitated the demolition of the restaurant and filling station, and the motel itself had to be relocated a few feet north. Following these changes, the Gassers sold the property and moved to Rolla, continuing their hospitality legacy with the Colonial Village motel.
Even after being bypassed by I-44, the motel saw a brief resurgence under new owner Ed Goodridge. He marketed a nostalgic escape, free from modern distractions, offering warm beds, hot showers, and the chance to reconnect with nature. Though the old tourist court and its distinctive sign persist, Vernell’s Motel is now closed, a silent testament to a bygone era.
John’s Modern Cabins: A Hub of Activity and Notoriety
Just a short half-mile further along this historic stretch of original Route 66 pavement, one encounters the evocative remains of John’s Modern Cabins. This place started in 1931 as Bill and Bess’s Place, established by Bill and Beatrice Bayliss. It was a rustic motor court featuring six log cabins and a lively beer and dance hall, known for its spirited music, dancing, and copious drinking. The establishment gained a darker notoriety in 1935 when a tragic shooting occurred within its dancehall.
As competition intensified in the 1940s, particularly with the establishment of nearby Fort Leonard Wood in 1940, the Bayliss’ sold their property. After changing hands multiple times, John and Lillian Dausch acquired the site in 1951, renaming it John’s Modern Cabins. John Dausch quickly earned the moniker “Sunday John” due to his audacious practice of selling beer seven days a week, a clear defiance of the local ordinances of the time.
Similar to Vernell’s, the widening of Route 66 in 1957 forced the Dausches to relocate their business a few feet north. They moved several cabins and constructed new ones from concrete, though the original dancehall was abandoned. They also built a larger log cabin for their residence and a separate building for a laundry room and snack bar, adapting to the evolving demands of highway travel.
By 1965, the construction of Interstate 44 definitively bypassed this section of Route 66, cutting off easy access to both John’s Modern Cabins and Vernell’s Motel. This significant infrastructure change led to a drastic decline in business. Compounding their struggles, Lillian Dausch fell ill and passed away. John Dausch, in declining health himself, ultimately closed the establishment, though he continued to reside there until his death in 1971. Over the years, the cabins fell into severe disrepair, only to be saved from demolition decades later by Route 66 preservationists. Despite these efforts, the abandoned site continues its slow deterioration today, its faded neon sign atop a cabin ironically proclaiming its name, while two old outhouses stand resiliently amidst the ruins.
Beyond the Cabins: The Totem Pole Tourist Camp
Continuing southwest along the Arlington Road, Missouri stretch, travelers pass a solitary building that once belonged to the Totem Pole Tourist Camp. Established in 1933 by Harry Cochran, this complex once boasted a novelty shop, a cafe, a filling station, six cabins, and a shower house, all presided over by a distinctive totem pole. When Route 66 was realigned in 1952, only six of these original buildings remained, further illustrating the dynamic and often transient nature of roadside businesses.
Arlington: The Ghost Town on Little Piney Creek
Further along the old road, after approximately another mile, lies the former town of Arlington. Nestled near the confluence of Little Piney Creek and the Gasconade River, this picturesque spot within the Ozark Plateau has always been a magnet for visitors drawn to its fishing and water activities.
Railroad Days and the Birth of a Town
The origins of Arlington as a settlement are deeply intertwined with railroad expansion. In 1860, the Southwest Branch of the Pacific Railroad began extending its line towards the mouth of the Little Piney River. Construction reached Rolla by December 1860, and the roadbed to Arlington was partially completed before winter weather and the looming Civil War halted further progress. During the conflict, the area was frequently manned by troops from the 5th Missouri State Militia Cavalry.
The war took a heavy toll on the Southwest Branch, leading to its bankruptcy following wartime traffic and damages from Price’s Raid. In late 1866, the railroad was sold to a group of investors led by John C. Fremont, the celebrated explorer and former Union commander. A new company, South West Pacific, was formed, and construction resumed with renewed vigor.
Tracks were laid to the Little Piney River, and in 1867, Thomas Harrison of Virginia platted the townsite. With the railroad’s arrival and plans for a bridge over the Gasconade River, Arlington experienced a rapid boom. Within weeks of its platting, descriptions noted
