Journey into the heart of southwest Colorado, where US Highway 550, stretching between Durango and Ouray high in the majestic San Juan Mountains, is famously known as the Million Dollar Highway. This iconic stretch of road is not merely a path but an unforgettable experience, consistently lauded as one of the top ten scenic highways in the United States, drawing adventurers and sightseers alike to its dramatic vistas and challenging curves.
The 70-mile Million Dollar Highway mesmerizes visitors with breathtaking panoramas of the San Juan Mountain Range and the imposing Uncompahgre Gorge. Along its winding course, travelers discover numerous opportunities for exploration, including historic Victorian-era mining towns, remnants of the past in ghost towns, thrilling narrow-gauge railway rides, extensive hiking trails, and exhilarating jeep excursions over America’s highest backcountry roads. However, this magnificent route demands utmost attention from drivers, as its twisting two-lane layout is replete with hairpin turns and exposed sections devoid of guardrails, making it a truly adventurous drive.
The San Juan Skyway: A Grander Scenic Loop
The Million Dollar Highway forms a crucial segment of the broader 235-mile San Juan Skyway. This comprehensive loop extends west from Durango to Mancos and Cortez, then turns northeast through Dolores and Telluride, before continuing to Ridgeway and finally circling back to Ouray, where it converges with the celebrated Million Dollar Highway. The integration of this segment into such a grand scenic byway underscores its significance as both a travel artery and a destination in itself.
Journeying from Durango to Silverton
Starting from Durango, US 550 embarks on a 48-mile northbound journey towards Silverton, closely paralleling the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The route takes travelers past Trimble Springs, a series of hot springs that have welcomed visitors since the late 19th century. Further north, the highway winds along the Animas River, traversing the picturesque Hermosa Valley and delving into the vast expanse of the San Juan National Forest, where Haviland Lake and Electra Lake provide serene interruptions to the rugged landscape.
As the road ascends, drivers are treated to views of Engineer Mountain and Twilight Peak before conquering Coal Bank Pass, which reaches an elevation of 10,660 feet. The ascent continues to Molas Pass, standing at an impressive 10,899 feet, offering panoramic views of Molas Lake, the Animas River Gorge, and the towering Snowdon Peak. Following these high mountain passes, the highway gently descends into Silverton, a town rich in history with numerous preserved historic buildings and opportunities for mine tours at sites like the Old Hundred Gold Mine and the Mayflower Mill.
The Treacherous and Beautiful Stretch to Ouray
Beyond Silverton, the highway progresses another 23 miles to Ouray, climbing through the Mineral Creek Valley before reaching Red Mountain Pass at 11,075 feet. Along this ascent, the ruins of the Longfellow Mine serve as historical markers. The summit of Red Mountain Pass provides several pull-outs where the extensive mining ruins of the once-rich Red Mountain District can be observed. The road then embarks on a gradual descent of approximately 2,000 feet, hugging the stunning, steep canyon walls of the Uncompahgre Gorge. This segment is particularly notable for its absence of guardrails, adding to its legendary status as a thrilling drive.
Numerous historical mining sites pepper the landscape along this stretch, offering glimpses into the area’s booming past. Before arriving in Ouray, Lookout Point offers a magnificent vista of the town, often dubbed the “Little Switzerland of America.” Ouray itself is a charming destination, characterized by its single main street, absence of traffic lights, three waterfalls, four hot springs, and the renowned Ouray Ice Park, providing a tranquil contrast to the dramatic journey.
The Enduring Mystery: How the Million Dollar Highway Got its Name
The highway’s captivating nickname, the Million Dollar Highway, primarily refers to its most storied 12-mile section of tight, winding road that navigates from the summit of Red Mountain Pass through the treacherous Uncompahgre Gorge south of Ouray. The origin of this evocative name is steeped in local lore, with several theories vying for recognition.
One popular legend suggests the roadbed was constructed from an astounding million dollars’ worth of gold and silver-filled tailings from the surrounding mines, lending a literal interpretation to its valuable designation. Another tale recounts a wealthy woman’s remark after traversing the road, purportedly exclaiming, “I would not travel that road again for a million dollars!” A third, more direct, explanation posits that the land for the road was simply purchased for an exorbitant sum of one million dollars.
However, the most widely accepted origin story traces the name to a planning meeting in 1921. During discussions to rebuild the highway, a gentleman reviewing the contracts noted that their cumulative cost closely approximated $1,000,000. In subsequent conversations, he began to refer to the route as “…this million-dollar highway…,” and the memorable moniker ultimately endured.
A Legacy Forged in Rock: The Pioneers of the Highway
The foundation of the Million Dollar Highway’s most challenging section began with the Ouray and San Juan Wagon Road Company in 1880. Their ambitious goal was to construct a road from Ouray across the seemingly impassable cliffs to Red Mountain Pass, aiming to access the lucrative Red Mountain Mining District. Despite initial progress, the company faced financial collapse by 1882.
It was Otto Mears, famously known as the “Pathfinder of the San Juans” for his extensive road-building endeavors in the region, who stepped in. Mears acquired a 54% interest in the toll road company and deployed a larger, more skilled construction crew. His teams, at a staggering cost of $40,000 per mile, blasted 8.5 miles of road from solid rock. He further extended the route along Red Mountain Creek, over Red Mountain Pass, down Mineral Creek, and into Silverton, completing this remarkable feat by 1883. The narrow track then operated as a vital freight and stage line.
Mears sought to recoup his considerable investment by implementing tolls: $5 for a team and wagon, $2.50 for a trail wagon, and $1 for saddle animals. He strategically narrowed the road at Bear Creek Falls, approximately three miles south of Ouray, ensuring travelers could not bypass his toll bridge. His gatehouse there even served as a small store, offering “whiskies and fine cigars” to weary travelers. However, the dominance of Mears’ private enterprise was short-lived, as local merchants and miners, who had contributed to the road’s completion, soon pushed back. By 1887, San Juan County and the State assumed control of road maintenance, marking the end of Mears’ monopoly over Red Mountain Pass.
From Railroads to Automobiles: The Road’s Modernization
Otto Mears, ever the visionary, continued his efforts to connect the Red Mountain Mining District, this time via the Silverton Railroad. By November 1888, the line reached Ironton, and by September 1889, it extended to its terminus in Albany, roughly eight miles south of Ouray. The terrain above Ironton, however, proved too steep for the railroad, preventing a direct rail link to Ouray, and plans for an electric cog railway never materialized due to financial constraints. Nonetheless, the Silverton Railroad played a crucial role, connecting the mining towns of the Red Mountain District to the bustling city of Silverton and facilitating the shipment of ore to smelters in Durango and Pueblo.
A new era dawned with the advent of the automobile. In a historic journey in 1910, Ouray doctor L.G. Crosby and his companions made the unprecedented six-mile trip from Ouray to Ironton in a new Model T for a house call. This feat garnered immediate acclaim, with Dr. Crosby and his passengers hailed as heroes. Contemporary accounts described it as “one of the most exhilarating, thrilling, unusual, and stirring automobile trips that could be taken or imagined.”
As the mines gradually played out, the Silverton Railroad scaled back services and was ultimately abandoned in 1921. Mears’ original toll road, however, continued to operate until the early 1920s when it was rebuilt and integrated into US Highway 550.
The Highway We Know Today: Challenges and Enduring Appeal
In 1924, the Colorado Department of Highways undertook significant improvements, upgrading Mears’ work to accommodate modern automobile travel. While many changes were implemented, Mears’ incredible 200-foot-long, 17-foot-wide Ouray Tunnel remarkably retained its original integrity and remains intact today. Although Mears’ initial course outside Ouray was much narrower and closer to the Uncompahgre River than the current US 550, the modern highway still adheres to Mears’ original shelf above Bear Creek Falls.
By 1930, the State Highways map depicted US 550 as a patchwork of graded and surfaced road. With the introduction of advanced snow-clearing machinery, the state achieved another milestone in 1935 by opening the road year-round for the first time. The enduring question for many travelers concerns the absence of guardrails in certain sections. Archival photos reveal that early versions of the road utilized large earthen blocks as guardrails. However, these proved impractical for snowplows, which annually contend with up to 300 inches of snow in the San Juans. Today, guardrails are present only where the road width permits, underscoring the formidable natural challenges of maintaining this mountain passage.
Conclusion: An Unforgettable Drive
Today, US 550 continues to draw an average of 2,300 vehicles daily. Travelers are captivated by the stunning alpine panoramas, the chance to spot wildlife, and the haunting beauty of ghost towns scattered along this historic path. The Million Dollar Highway remains a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance against the formidable forces of nature, offering an unparalleled driving experience that is as historically rich as it is visually spectacular. It is a route that truly earns its name, not just for its cost, but for the priceless memories and breathtaking views it offers to all who dare to traverse its legendary curves. Prepare for an adventure of a lifetime along this iconic Colorado byway.
