Just two miles north of Taos, New Mexico, stands the remarkable Taos Pueblo, an architectural marvel and one of the longest continually inhabited communities in the United States. This ancient site offers a profound glimpse into centuries of uninterrupted Indigenous culture, with evidence of human presence in the Taos Valley dating back to 3,000 B.C.
The Enduring Architecture and Traditional Lifestyle
The iconic structures of Taos Pueblo were constructed by the Northern Tiwa tribe, primarily between 1000 and 1450 A.D. These multi-storied buildings, some reaching five stories high, are crafted entirely from adobe—a robust blend of earth, straw, and water, formed into sun-dried bricks or poured into molds to create walls several feet thick. The roofs are built with wooden poles laid side-by-side and covered with packed earth, supported by large timbers carefully hauled from the surrounding mountain forests. The Pueblo’s exterior has been meticulously maintained throughout the centuries by continuous re-plastering with thick layers of mud, ensuring its timeless appearance.
Historically, the adobe structures had no ground-level doors or windows, requiring entry to be gained from the top via ladders. This design served as a defensive measure against external threats. While modernizations have introduced doors and windows for convenience, the core architectural integrity and traditional aesthetic remain. Remarkably, the community within the historic Pueblo walls intentionally foregoes modern utilities like plumbing and electricity, preserving a lifestyle deeply connected to ancient ways. Hlaauma, the Pueblo on the north side of Red Willow Creek, is particularly renowned as one of the most photographed multi-storied Pueblo structures in the Western Hemisphere, with homes typically featuring two rooms: one for living and sleeping, and another for cooking and dining.
Red Willow Creek: The Lifeblood of the Pueblo
Bisecting the heart of the community is Red Willow Creek, a vital water source that originates high in the Sangre de Cristo Range at the tribe’s sacred Blue Lake. This serene stream flows gently through the Pueblo before transforming into a whitewater river and eventually merging with the Rio Grande. For millennia, the creek has provided essential water for drinking, cooking, bathing, and religious ceremonies. Its swift currents prevent it from freezing completely in winter, though a thick layer of ice often forms, which is easily broken to access the fresh water beneath. This continuous flow underscores the intimate relationship between the Pueblo and its natural environment.
A History of Encounters and Resilience
The first Europeans to document the existence of the Taos Pueblo were Captain Hernando de Alvarado and a detachment of Spanish soldiers in 1540, sent by Francisco Vasquez de Coronado to explore what is now northeast New Mexico. The name “Taos” itself is believed to derive from a Spanish interpretation of the Tiwa word “təo,” meaning “village.”
Spanish colonization efforts intensified with the arrival of Don Juan de Oñate Salazar in 1598, who assigned Fray Francisco de Zamora to minister to the Taos and Picuris Pueblos. Around 1619, the first Spanish-Franciscan mission, San Geronimo de Taos, was constructed using Indigenous labor. The strategic location of the Taos Pueblo, with its established trading networks, mission presence, and abundant natural resources, quickly attracted Spanish settlers. However, the authoritarian methods of the newcomers and their forceful imposition of religion created significant friction, leading to profound resistance.
The Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and Subsequent Conflicts
The growing tensions culminated in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, a meticulously planned uprising spearheaded by several Pueblo communities, with Taos Pueblo as a central organizing point. In August 1680, more than 8,000 Pueblo warriors launched a coordinated assault, resulting in the deaths of 21 Franciscan friars and over 400 Spaniards, effectively driving some 1,000 settlers out of the region. During this historic revolt, the original San Geronimo church was destroyed, a testament to the Taos people’s determination to reclaim their sovereignty.
Despite a successful Spanish military reconquest by Don Diego de Vargas in 1692, the resilience of the Taos people continued. De Vargas raided the Pueblo in 1694 when it refused to supply corn to starving settlers in Santa Fe, and another rebellion occurred in 1696, which De Vargas also suppressed. The San Geronimo Mission was rebuilt in 1706. Over a century later, with Mexico’s independence from Spain in 1821, Taos and other Rio Grande pueblos formed alliances with the new nation. The settlement around the Pueblo flourished as a trading center, attracting famous mountain men like Kit Carson, Smith Simpson, and Ceran St. Vrain in the early 1800s.
The Pueblo again faced conflict during the Mexican-American War when U.S. General Stephen Kearney occupied New Mexico in 1846. In 1847, the Taos people rebelled against American rule, killing the newly appointed Governor Charles Bent. U.S. troops retaliated, leading to the deaths of approximately 150 Indigenous people and the destruction of the San Geronimo Mission for a second time. Sixteen Indigenous individuals were executed for their involvement in the revolt. The ruins of this second mission still stand today, northwest of the main Pueblo blocks, serving as a solemn reminder of past struggles. A new church was constructed within the Pueblo walls in 1850, which continues to serve parishioners today.
Governance, Culture, and Economy Today
Today, approximately 150 members of the Tiwa tribe reside within the historic Taos Pueblo full-time, while an additional 1,800 or more live across the extensive 99,000-acre Pueblo lands. The community operates under a unique governance structure comprising a Tribal Governor, a War Chief, and their respective staffs. These officials are appointed annually by the Tribal Council, a respected body of about 30 male tribal elders. The Governor and his staff manage civil and business affairs within the village, as well as relations with the non-Indigenous world. The War Chief and his staff are responsible for protecting tribal lands, resources, and wildlife beyond the Pueblo walls. All adults living on tribal lands are expected to contribute their services to community duties when required, fostering a strong sense of collective responsibility.
The tribe holds its culture and traditions with immense reverence. Their oral traditions and the native Tiwa language remain unwritten and unrecorded, underscoring their commitment to preserving cultural integrity through spoken word and memory. A significant portion of their history, religious rituals, and traditions are considered sacred and are therefore off-limits to non-tribal members. This protective stance ensures the authenticity and privacy of their spiritual practices, yet visitors can still experience the profound architectural beauty and warm hospitality of the Pueblo residents.
Tourism, alongside native crafts and food concessions, forms a vital part of the Pueblo’s economy. Numerous vendors within the Pueblo offer an array of authentic handmade goods, including pottery, exquisite silver jewelry, traditional leather works, and freshly baked bread from adobe ovens. While these shops are open to the public, it is imperative that visitors respect private residences; entry should only be made into buildings clearly designated as “shops.”
Beyond the historic village, the tribe also owns and operates the Taos Mountain Casino, located south of the Pueblo, which contributes to the economic welfare of the community.
Visiting Taos Pueblo: Etiquette and Highlights
Taos Pueblo welcomes visitors annually from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., though it closes for special ceremonies, tribal funerals, and for ten weeks during the late winter or early spring. Admission fees and separate camera use fees are charged to help support the preservation and maintenance of this living historical site. Visitors are encouraged to explore with respect and an understanding of the Pueblo’s cultural significance.
One of the principal attractions is the San Geronimo Church, constructed in 1850. As one of the “youngest” buildings within the village, it provides a fascinating example of mission architecture and illustrates how the Taos people integrated their spiritual values into the Catholic religion. This church, designated a National Historic Landmark, remains an active place of worship, and requests for “no photography” inside should be honored without exception. Nearby, the poignant ruins of the earlier San Geronimo Church, destroyed in 1847, can be observed from outside the cemetery, offering a powerful historical context.
The annual Taos Pueblo Pow Wow is a major summer event, drawing spiritual leaders and tribal members for a vibrant gathering featuring traditional costumed dancers, singers, and various ceremonies. This event also hosts a wide array of vendors and artists, celebrating Indigenous culture through art and performance. Other cultural events are held throughout the year, offering diverse opportunities to engage with the Tiwa community.
Visitor Guidelines for a Respectful Experience
To ensure a respectful and enriching visit, the Taos Pueblo kindly requests that visitors adhere to the following guidelines:
- Please report and pay the appropriate fee for each camera carried into the Pueblo area.
- Respect all “restricted area” signs, which are in place to protect residents’ privacy and sacred religious sites.
- Do not enter doors not clearly marked as curio shops; these are private homes.
- Always ask for permission before photographing members of the tribe. If permission is granted, it is customary to offer a tip.
- No photography is allowed inside San Geronimo Chapel or during Feast Days.
- Do not enter the walls surrounding the ruins of the old church and cemetery.
- Do not wade in Red Willow Creek, as it is the sole source of drinking water for the community.
- Do not climb onto any structures or ladders.
A Living Legacy
The Taos Pueblo stands as a powerful testament to the enduring spirit and cultural resilience of the Tiwa people. For over a millennium, this remarkable community has preserved its unique architectural heritage, spiritual practices, and traditional way of life against a backdrop of historical challenge and change. It is not merely a historical site but a vibrant, living community that continues to honor its ancestors and uphold its rich legacy for future generations. A visit to Taos Pueblo offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness a profound connection to the past and an inspiring commitment to cultural preservation in the present.
