The Johnson Canyon Railroad Tunnel stands as a powerful testament to human ingenuity and perseverance amidst the formidable challenges of constructing the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad across northern Arizona. This vital engineering marvel, though now a historical relic, played a pivotal role in connecting the American West and its story is one deeply etched with both monumental achievement and tragic peril.
By late summer 1881, the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad’s westbound track-laying crews had pushed their way near what is now Williams, Arizona. Their journey thus far had been a succession of engineering triumphs, most notably the daunting span over the 250-foot-deep chasm at Canyon Diablo.
Forging a Path West: The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad’s Challenge
As the railroad continued its westward expansion, survey crews encountered a new and imposing obstacle: the western escarpment of the Colorado Plateau. This rugged landscape was deeply scarred by steep, narrow canyons, presenting a significant challenge to engineers tasked with laying track efficiently. To circumvent the costly and time-consuming construction of a lengthy loop to the south, engineers ultimately chose to route the line through Johnson Canyon. This decision, however, came with its own set of complexities, including a roadbed featuring a dramatic 112-foot drop per mile, a gradient that far exceeded standard grade-level specifications.
The canyon’s challenging terrain quickly revealed more than just steep grades. Just west of the summit, a sheer rock shoulder formed a formidable cliff precisely where the canyon made a sharp turn. This natural barrier necessitated the construction of a tunnel, a singular engineering requirement on the central line west of Albuquerque.
The Engineering Marvel: Constructing the Tunnel
The required tunnel, though relatively short at 328 feet, was initially predicted by engineers to cause only a brief delay in the railroad’s relentless march westward. However, these predictions proved optimistic. As tunnel crews began their work, they struck an impenetrable basalt core, slowing daily progress to mere inches. This unforeseen geological challenge dramatically impacted the construction timeline and budget for the Johnson Canyon Railroad Tunnel.
While tunnel construction proceeded at a painstakingly slow pace, other crews tackled the remaining obstacles within the canyon. This included bridging two significant gorges, one of which lay immediately adjacent to the tunnel’s western face. These complex projects demanded specialized skills beyond those of a typical rail gang. The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad began an aggressive recruitment drive, luring skilled powder men, miners, and bridge builders from across the globe by offering unprecedented wages. Laborers could earn $2.40 per day, while drillers commanded an impressive $2.80 daily, reflecting the perilous and demanding nature of the work.
Life and Death in the Canyon Camps
The influx of workers and the demands of construction soon led to the emergence of a small, bustling railroad camp nestled among the pines 200 feet above the tunnel site. This vibrant, if temporary, community boasted stores, saloons, and even brothels, serving the needs of the transient workforce. Despite the harsh conditions and inherent dangers of railroad construction, work-related injuries and deaths were tragically common. Surprisingly, documented instances of shootings and similar violence were rare enough to be newsworthy when they did occur.
An article published in the Arizona Weekly Miner in February 1882 recounts one such incident. An altercation between James Casey and William Ryan escalated dramatically when Casey shot Ryan in the head. Enraged citizens, armed and determined, forced Casey to barricade himself within a saloon. The newspaper’s account concludes with a chillingly succinct statement: “Luckily, a ball from one of the guns ended his (Casey’s) villainous career, and he was sent to meet his Maker with the blood of Ryan fresh on his hands.”
A more widespread tragedy struck the camp in August when a premature explosion of blasting powder, tamped into drill holes, ignited a nearby stockpile. Several men vanished in the blast, and the official death toll for this single horrific event was six.
Financial Straits and Tunnel Completion
The prolonged and arduous construction of the Johnson Canyon Railroad Tunnel exacted a heavy toll on the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, pushing the company to the brink of financial collapse. The slow pace forced the railroad to sell stock to its rival, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. While this measure offered a temporary reprieve, it merely postponed the inevitable, and the Atlantic & Pacific soon faded into a historic footnote, its grand ambitions overshadowed by its financial woes.
Despite the immense difficulties and financial strain, the tunnel was finally completed in late 1882. However, its completion merely ushered in a new set of engineering challenges. Persistent rockfalls plagued the site, threatening the integrity of the newly constructed line. To counteract this issue, an intricate lattice of heavy timbers was installed to shore up the ceiling.
Ongoing Challenges and Modifications
Even with the timber supports, the Johnson Canyon Tunnel remained a site of considerable risk. A devastating fire in 1898, followed by a severe rockfall, led to the closure of the line for 11 days and tragically claimed the lives of two more men. Repairs following this incident included the addition of a robust riveted iron ceiling and the lowering of the tunnel floor to improve clearance and stability. Between this period and the eventual abandonment of the line in 1959, significant modifications were primarily external, including the construction of a gun emplacement directly over the tunnel during World War II. This fortification highlighted the tunnel’s strategic importance, recognizing it as a critical railroad bottleneck vital to national defense.
Johnson Canyon’s Dangerous Legacy
The human tragedies associated with the tunnel’s construction and maintenance represent only a fraction of Johnson Canyon’s bloody history. The challenging terrain contributed to a series of devastating derailments, some of which saw entire trains plummeting 100 feet to the canyon floor below. These calamitous events earned Johnson Canyon a national reputation as one of the most perilous railroad lines in all of America.
Discovering the Historic Johnson Canyon Tunnel Today
Despite its profound historical significance to Western development and railroad history, the tunnel’s relative obscurity is somewhat puzzling. Its importance as a survivor of early American engineering and a witness to intense human struggle makes it a compelling destination for history enthusiasts and adventurers alike. The ease of access to the site only adds to the mystery of its overlooked status.
An adventure to the tunnel begins at Exit 151, Welch Road, on I-40 west of Williams, Arizona. Travelers should continue north on Forest Road 6, crossing two early alignments of the historic Route 66, and drive several miles to the site of Welch Station, which is easily identifiable by a large concrete slab. From there, the journey continues by following the old rail bed approximately 2.5 miles east into the canyon. This section of the hike is relatively easy, as the rail bed remains wide and level, with minimal grade, making for an enjoyable trek. However, visitors should be prepared for a remote wilderness experience. It is crucial to carry plenty of water, be vigilant for snakes (which are quite plentiful during the summer months), and notify someone of your destination and expected return time. Embracing these precautions allows one to truly savor the solitude and breathtaking scenery as you ascend deeper into the scenic canyon.
Conclusion/Final Thoughts
The Johnson Canyon Railroad Tunnel stands not merely as a passage through rock, but as a monument to an era of unyielding ambition, engineering grit, and immense human sacrifice. Its construction tested the limits of technology and human endurance, leaving behind a legacy of both triumph and tragedy. From the painstaking struggle against basalt to the devastating fires and derailments, the story of this tunnel is a microcosm of the challenges faced in taming the American West. Today, this hidden piece of history offers a unique opportunity to connect with the past, to walk in the footsteps of those who built America’s railroads, and to reflect on the enduring power of nature and the human spirit.
