The Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail represents a crucial, albeit perilous, artery of American westward expansion. This historic route, often referred to as the Cimarron Cutoff, offered a shorter and faster path for traders and pioneers moving from Missouri to Santa Fe, New Mexico, compared to its Mountain Route counterpart. Its legacy in shaping the American frontier, particularly through the challenging landscapes of Kansas, is undeniable.
While speed was a significant draw, the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail was infamous for its brutal easternmost 50 to 60 miles, a desolate stretch known ominously as La Jornada (The Journey) due to its severe lack of water. This treacherous segment, combined with the ever-present threat of Native American attacks, often swayed travelers towards the longer, but safer, Mountain Route. Yet, for those brave enough to risk its dangers, the Cimarron route offered a direct link to the bustling markets of Santa Fe, making it a pivotal thoroughfare in the early days of the trail.
Haskell County: The Initial Challenge
Entering Haskell County near its northeast corner, the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail embarked on a roughly 27-mile journey through a largely unforgiving landscape. The trail passed southwest between the now-vanished towns of Ivanhoe and Santa Fe, leaving behind only echoes of their existence. A historical marker today stands north of the abandoned Santa Fe townsite, near the Ivanhoe Cemetery, serving as a silent sentinel to the thousands of wagons and countless footsteps that once carved this path.
Travelers through Haskell County found little in the way of reprieve or established stopping points. Wild Horse Lake lay to the north, but it offered no critical oases for the exhausted pioneers and their livestock. This section of the trail underscored the harsh realities of the Cimarron Cutoff, demanding constant vigilance and a deep understanding of survival in an arid environment. The absence of readily available water sources meant that every mile gained was a testament to sheer endurance and meticulous planning, highlighting why La Jornada was such a fearsome proposition for all who dared to traverse it.
Grant County: The Lifeline of Wagon Bed Spring
The trail’s journey into Grant County marked a transition from sheer desolation to the prospect of life-sustaining water. Entering midway through its eastern boundary, the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail continued its southwesterly course. Here, it crossed the North Fork of the Cimarron River before reaching one of its most vital and celebrated landmarks: the “Lower Springs,” universally known as Wagon Bed Spring. This crucial stopping place, nestled in the extreme southern part of the county near the old townsite of Zionville, represented the first truly reliable water source after the formidable Jornada.
For those undertaking the Cimarron Cutoff from Gray County, Wagon Bed Spring was an absolutely welcome oasis. After enduring some 60 miles without reliable water from the Arkansas River, the spring offered a desperate reprieve. The perils of this dry stretch were vividly illustrated by incidents where entire wagon trains teetered on the brink of perishing from thirst. Beyond the natural challenges, this region was also a notorious hotbed for fierce Plains Indian attacks, who frequently ambushed and plundered caravans, adding a layer of intense human conflict to the already formidable natural obstacles. It was near this very spring that the famed Western explorer and fur trader, Jedediah Strong Smith, tragically lost his life in 1831, ambushed by Comanche Indians after four days lost without water. Today, located about 11 miles south and 1/2 mile west of Ulysses, Kansas, Wagon Bed Spring remains accessible, with a local chapter maintaining a display near the original Lower Springs location, where numerous trail ruts are still visible, providing a tangible link to the past.
Stevens County: Navigating the River’s Edge
As the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail wound through Stevens County, it predominantly paralleled the Cimarron River, running through the northwest part of the county. Unlike the critical importance of Wagon Bed Spring, this section featured no major camping places or significant landmarks. However, the presence of the river, even if not always directly accessible, offered a sense of hope and direction for weary travelers.
Pioneers often chose their exact route based on the river’s meandering course, sometimes staying close to its banks, while at other times venturing several miles away onto the upland plains. This resulted in what essentially became two distinct routes within this area: the “river” route, which offered slightly more direct access to water, and the “upland” route, which might have provided firmer ground but at the cost of being further from essential hydration. These choices reflected the dynamic challenges of frontier travel, where even subtle topographical differences could mean the difference between timely progress and potentially fatal delays.
Morton County: Springs, Lookouts, and the Final Kansas Stretch
Morton County holds approximately 30 miles of the historic trail within its boundaries, marking the final significant stretch of the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail in Kansas. Entering the county about eight miles south of its northeast corner, the trail continued its course along the Cimarron River, leading to another vital water source: the Middle or Cimarron Spring.
Situated roughly nine miles north of present-day Elkhart, Kansas, Middle Spring was the next reliable water source after Wagon Bed Spring. This made it a particularly important stopping and camping point for caravans, providing essential relief and a chance to rest before continuing the arduous journey. This site is accessible today, inviting visitors to connect with the trail’s history. From Middle Spring, the trail pressed onward to Point of Rocks, a prominent geological feature now located within the Cimarron National Grassland. This natural landmark served as a critical lookout point for both Native Americans and traders, offering commanding views of the Cimarron Valley. One branch of the trail ran directly between the rock formation and the river, and today, wagon ruts are still visible in the surrounding grasslands, a profound testament to the countless journeys made along this path. The trail then continued through Morton County, exiting Kansas about seven miles north of the southwest corner. After leaving the modern boundaries of Kansas, the Cimarron Route persisted in following the Cimarron River, weaving through parts of present-day Colorado and Oklahoma for another 60 to 65 miles before finally entering the northeast corner of New Mexico, ultimately reaching its destination in Santa Fe.
Conclusion: Enduring Legacy of the Cimarron Branch
The Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail, though fraught with challenges including its notorious Jornada and the ever-present threat of conflict, played an indelible role in the economic and geographical expansion of the United States. Through the counties of Haskell, Grant, Stevens, and Morton in Kansas, it carved a path not only through the physical landscape but also into the very fabric of American history. Landmarks like Wagon Bed Spring and Point of Rocks stand as enduring monuments to the resilience and determination of those who braved this difficult route.
The stories of those who traversed the Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail, from daring traders to intrepid pioneers, paint a vivid picture of courage in the face of immense hardship. The spirit of the frontier is palpable in the still-visible wagon ruts and the historical sites that dot its course. The words of Milton E. Bryan, a traveler on the Jornada in 1828, encapsulate the profound struggles: “Having neglected to carry water with us, we were compelled to do without it for two days and nights after leaving the Arkansas River, and when we did come to a cool, sparkling stream, both animals and men were almost to the point of perishing.” This vital passage, despite its perils, remains a powerful symbol of American ingenuity and perseverance in the pursuit of opportunity and connection.
