In the pivotal year of 1776, as the American colonies declared independence, another significant chapter of exploration unfolded in the vast North American interior: the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition. This remarkable undertaking by Franciscan priests Atanasio Dominguez and Silvestre Velez de Escalante aimed to forge an overland connection from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Spanish mission in Monterey, California. The Dominguez-Escalante Expedition stands as one of the last major explorations conducted by the Spanish Crown in the American Southwest, charting territories previously unseen by Europeans.
Led by Fray Atanasio Dominguez and meticulously documented by Fray Silvestre Velez de Escalante, who held considerable knowledge of the northern frontier’s Indigenous tribes, the expedition commenced on July 29, 1776. Accompanied by eight dedicated volunteers, well-equipped with saddle horses, pack animals, and cattle, their initial objective was to discover a viable route north of the formidable Grand Canyon and the mighty Colorado River, traversing what was then largely considered Comanche territory. Previous Spanish encounters in this region had been marked by violent confrontations, highlighting the inherent dangers of this ambitious quest. Ultimately, the expedition would trace a sweeping loop, journeying northward rather than directly westward, thereby covering an immense expanse across present-day Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico over several challenging months.
The Men Behind the Map: Key Figures of the Expedition
The success and detailed record-keeping of the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition were largely due to the diverse skills of its participants. While Fray Dominguez assumed overall command, Fray Escalante diligently maintained a journal, meticulously logging daily events and observations. Crucial to their cartographic achievements was Bernardo de Miera y Pacheco, the expedition’s skilled cartographer. Pacheco was a man of many talents, serving variously as an army engineer, merchant, Indian fighter, government agent, rancher, and artist, whose contributions were instrumental in mapping the unexplored portions of the American West.
Beyond the friars and Pacheco, several other brave men embarked from Santa Fe:
- Don Juan Pedro Cisneros, Alcalde mayor of Zuni Pueblo
- Don Joaquín Lain, a native of Santa Cruz in Castilla la Vieja and citizen of Santa Fe
- Lorenzo Olivares from La Villa del Paso, a citizen of El Paso
- Andres Muniz from Bernalillo, New Mexico, who served as a vital Ute language interpreter
- Lucrecio Muniz, Andres’s brother, from Embudo, north of Santa Fe
- Juan de Aguilar, born in Santa Clara, New Mexico
- Simon Lucero, a servant to Don Pedro Cisneros, possibly of Zuni heritage
The small size of the expedition amplified the inherent perils of their journey. Early encounters with Ute Indians underscored this danger, as they warned the priests of the increased need for protection as they ventured beyond settled areas.
Charting New Lands: From New Mexico to Colorado’s Ancestral Ruins
The initial stages of the journey saw the expedition camping at Santa Clara Pueblo and then Santa Rosa de Abiquiu Pueblo, before pressing north and northwest towards what is now Dulce, New Mexico. Along the way, they diligently observed and named prominent landmarks. Their passage into Colorado took them through locations like Arboles, Ignacio, Durango, and Hesperus. A significant discovery occurred on August 10, when they encamped at the base of the La Plata Mountains, near the modern Mesa Verde National Park. Here, Escalante and Dominguez became the first recorded white men to encounter and document the ancestral Puebloan ruins in southwestern Colorado, a testament to the ancient civilizations that thrived in the region.
Continuing north and west of the San Juan Mountains, the group repeatedly crossed the Dolores River, eventually camping along its banks northeast of present-day Cahone. It was here that they met two Native American slaves, whom they named Genízaro and Coyote, who subsequently joined the expedition, providing invaluable local knowledge and assistance.
Navigating Arid Lands and Seeking Guides in Colorado
As the expedition pushed further northwest through canyons and then near present-day Egnar and along the San Miguel River, the landscape transformed. The land grew increasingly arid, offering scarce pasture for their horses and insufficient water. The rugged canyons presented considerable challenges. Recognizing the signs of local settlements and the critical need for guidance, they actively sought out Ute Indians, hoping to secure knowledgeable guides to navigate the difficult terrain.
Their perseverance paid off northeast of Nucla, at the confluence of the San Miguel and Dolores Rivers, where they finally encountered a member of the Ute tribe. After camping along a tributary of the San Miguel, they traveled east through the Uncompahgre National Forest onto the Uncompahgre Plateau, eventually reaching an area near Montrose where they met with a Ute chief. Learning of the Timpanogo Ute men in the vicinity, the party resumed their northwesterly course, crossing the north fork of the Gunnison River and arriving at the site of what is now Hotchkiss.
Ute Encounters and a Difficult Decision
On September 1, traveling northeast, the expedition reached the Bowie area, where they encountered 80 Timpanogo Ute men on horseback. Father Dominguez, through interpreter Andres Muniz, preached to them after meeting with the chief and his sons. The Ute strongly advised the Spanish to turn back, warning of fierce Comanche Indians to the west and expressing concern that the Spanish governor would hold them responsible if the expedition suffered harm. A troubling incident occurred when Muniz and his brother, Lucrecio, contravening the expedition’s spiritual mission and the agreement that allowed passage through Ute territory, traded goods for firearms.
Despite this, the expedition secured new guides, swapping their weary horses for fresh Ute steeds. They gained agreement to continue their journey, led by a Ute man they named “Silvestre” (after Fray Escalante) and a boy called “Joaquín.” Silvestre, hailing from present-day Utah, became the primary Native guide from Colorado into Utah, and his recognition among the Ute tribes facilitated safe passage for the explorers.
The group traversed the Grand Mesa National Forest to the south side of Battlement Mesa, then crossed the Colorado River near Una, Colorado. Here, further Ute encounters helped clarify the best route forward, and they learned that the Comanche had shifted eastward, away from their intended path. After moving north and west through Canyon Pintado, south of Rangely, Colorado, the expedition entered Rio Blanco County. They crossed the White River east of Rangely on September 10, observing the landscape flatten after weeks of challenging mountain, canyon, and mesa travel.
Entering Utah: Dinosaur Monument to Utah Lake
By mid-September 1776, the expedition had reached the vicinity of present-day Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado, successfully hunting a bison near the Yampa Plateau. They continued along Cliff Creek, noting landmarks like Blue Mountain and Musketshot Springs, which they described as “a musket shot apart from each other.” The friars were profoundly impressed by the Green River, which they christened the San Buenaventura, recording its dramatic flow “between two lofty stone hogbacks which, after forming a sort of corral, come so closely together that one can barely make out the gorge through which the river comes”—an uncannily accurate description of Split Mountain Canyon. They made camp on the riverbank, about a mile from their intended ford, by a large stand of cottonwoods where a member carved “Year of 1776.”
The Dominguez-Escalante Expedition pressed onward into Utah’s Uinta Basin, passing through areas now known as Jensen, Roosevelt, Duchesne, and Myton. The friars consistently praised these regions as ideal for settlement. Their arrival in Utah Valley brought them into contact with friendly Ute people, from the same band as their guides. The explorers expressed their good fortune and promised to return within the year to establish settlements and preach the gospel. On September 23, guided by their Indigenous companions, they reached Utah Lake, near what would one day become Salt Lake City, which they named the Lake of the Timpanogos Tribe.
A smaller contingent, including Silvestre, Joaquín, Muniz, and Dominguez, journeyed to a Native American village on the Provo River. Initially met with brandished weapons, recognition of Silvestre quickly transformed the reception into a warm welcome. They met with Chief Turunianchi, whose people were astonished to learn the Spaniards had safely traversed Comanche territory. The purpose of their visit, including the desire to share their faith, was clearly explained.
The Long Road Home: Trials and Triumphs of the Return Journey
With dwindling provisions, the looming threat of winter, and the potential loss of their guide, trepidation mounted among the expedition members. A crucial decision lay ahead: continue towards Monterey or return to Santa Fe. After much deliberation and some initial resistance, a drawing of lots confirmed the path back to Santa Fe, abandoning the push for California.
Dominguez requested new guides for the return. Joaquín, along with another boy named Jose María (approximately 12 years old), agreed to assist. The fathers bestowed gifts upon the tribe and received a generous supply of dried fish for their journey. On September 25, the group departed Silvestre’s village near Spanish Fork, venturing southwest into unfamiliar territory. They camped near sites that would eventually become Springville, Payson, Starr, Levan, and Scipio, encountering several small, generally friendly Native American groups along the way.
Beyond Scipio, the challenges intensified. They struggled to find adequate pastureland and potable water. Adding to their difficulties, Jose María, one of the new guides, abandoned the party after witnessing a servant being punished, leaving the expedition without clear direction. Fortunately, Joaquín remained steadfast in assisting the explorers. They traveled south along Ash Creek to its confluence with the Virgin River, near modern-day Hurricane, in Washington County. Escalante’s journal indicates the party camped atop Sand Mountain before continuing south along Fort Pearce Wash.
By October 22, they reached the Paria River. As they made their arduous way east across Arizona, illness, and the persistent scarcity of water, pastureland, and supplies plagued them. Guided by local Native Americans, the expedition reached the site of present-day Lees Ferry, only to find the river too treacherous to cross. They were then led to a second ford of the Colorado River, where they faced the monumental task of carving steps into the canyon wall to allow their mounts passage. As recorded in the Fathers’ translated journal: “In order to have the mounts [mules, donkeys, and horses] led down to the canyon mentioned, it became necessary to cut steps with axes on a stone cliff.”
After safely descending the animals, they located a relatively calm crossing point in the river. On November 7, 1776, they successfully crossed the Colorado River at this ford, now famously known as the Crossing of the Fathers, a site now submerged beneath the waters of Lake Powell.
To survive the harsh conditions of their return, the expedition was forced to resort to eating many of their horses, their only remaining provisions. They turned south, seeking succor among the villages of the Hopi and Zuni Tribes, whose generous supplies proved vital to their survival. Eventually, they headed north along the Rio Grande, finally reaching Santa Fe on January 2, 1777, after a monumental journey spanning more than 2,000 miles over six months. Upon their return, Joaquín, the loyal guide, was baptized into the Catholic Church in Santa Fe, marking a spiritual close to an extraordinary chapter of exploration and endurance. Fray Francisco Atanasio Dominguez subsequently submitted a comprehensive report of the expedition’s findings to Mexico City, forever cementing the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition‘s place in history.
