Nestled in the picturesque Kansas Ozarks, the small town of Elk Falls, Kansas, holds a unique distinction, proudly touting itself as the “World’s largest living ghost town” and the “Outhouse Capital of the World.” This captivating settlement, though a mere shadow of its vibrant past, continues to draw curious visitors with its eccentric charm and rich history. From its early days as a hopeful frontier town to its modern-day reinvention, Elk Falls offers a compelling glimpse into resilient small-town American life.
The journey of Elk Falls began in February 1870, when R.H. Nichols became the first settler to establish roots on the townsite. Recognizing the potential of the area, Nichols, alongside six other shrewd businessmen, quickly formed a townsite company. They meticulously laid out lots and began planning for a thriving new community. Nichols himself constructed a small house that ingeniously doubled as a loan and real estate office, while a general store, drug store, and blacksmith shop soon followed. The establishment of a post office marked official recognition, and education commenced with Miss Dora Simmons teaching 25 pupils from her father’s residence.
The Naming and Early County Seat Disputes
By 1871, the burgeoning settlement was officially named Elk Falls, a moniker derived from the beautiful, nearby waterfall on the Elk River. Its strategic location initially earned it the temporary designation as the county seat of Howard County. However, the path to a permanent county seat was fraught with challenges. Elections held in 1872 and 1873 failed to produce a decisive winner among Elk Falls, Peru, Boston, Longton, and Howard.
The intense competition escalated dramatically after a questionable election in 1873. Citizens of Boston, fueled by ambition and frustration, audaciously raided Elk Falls, seizing the county records and furnishings. These crucial documents were subsequently hidden in Cowley County, and the town of Boston even posted armed guards to prevent their retrieval by the Howard County sheriff. This bitter rivalry, however, became academic when Howard County was divided into Elk and Chautauqua Counties in 1875. With this realignment, Elk Falls found itself within Elk County, but the town of Howard ultimately secured the permanent county seat due to its more central location.
Industrial Growth and the Enduring Dam
Despite the political setbacks, Elk Falls continued its development. In 1875, entrepreneurs E.A. Hall and L.J. Johnston embarked on a significant industrial venture, constructing a grist and flour mill on the river near the falls. This impressive three-story frame building, costing $1600, was powered by a robust turbine water wheel. The mill processed wheat from local farmers and even those who shipped it in, supplying flour throughout the state of Kansas.
Ensuring a consistent water supply for the mill proved challenging due to frequent droughts and destructive floods. Several dams, constructed from logs, lumber, and timbers along the Elk River, were repeatedly swept away by turbulent waters. It was a Swedish immigrant from Minnesota, Jo Johansen, who finally engineered a lasting solution. Taking over the mill, Johansen built a resilient dam from sandstone rocks cemented together, a structure that has remarkably withstood the floods for over a century, a testament to his craftsmanship. The town’s spiritual life also flourished, with a Baptist Church built in 1879, followed by a Methodist Episcopal Church in 1880.
Population Peak and Decline
By 1880, Elk Falls reached its population zenith, boasting 513 residents. The town continued to attract prospects, with significant improvements and a bustling atmosphere. By 1883, the population still exceeded five hundred, and the local school was thriving with over 200 students, indicating a vibrant community brimming with families.
The Historic Pratt Truss Bridge: A Symbol of Resilience
A crucial piece of infrastructure was added on November 15, 1892, when the Elk County Commissioners voted to construct an iron Pratt Truss Bridge over the Elk River. This vital link connected dirt roads to the main thoroughfare leading into Elk Falls from the northeast. Completed in 1893 at a cost of $2,000, the bridge featured unique expansion joints made from rollers rather than wheels. This engineering marvel stands today, a proud inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places.
Sometime in the late nineteenth century, the grist mill ceased operations, and its building was repurposed for hay storage on the south side of the river. Although Elk Falls still supported two stores, two barbershops, a doctor’s office, a dentist, a drug store, and a feed store, its population had begun to decline, numbering only 269 residents by 1927. The construction of Kansas Highway 160 through Elk Falls in 1957 further diminished traffic on the old steel bridge. A dramatic flood in 1976 washed away most of its wooden planks, leading the Elk County Commissioners to condemn and close the bridge. Fortunately, plans for its demolition were delayed, and in 1983, it was preserved as a cherished footbridge. Recognition for its historical significance came in 1992 from the Kansas State Historical Society, culminating in its placement on the National Register of Historic Sites in 1994.
Reinvention: The Living Ghost Town and Outhouse Capital
Today, while Elk Falls candidly describes itself as a living ghost town, its residents proudly proclaim, “We ain’t dead yet!” Far from a typical tourist destination, this off-the-beaten-path town has made extraordinary efforts to endure. It’s a place where visitors can truly slow down, immerse themselves in the tranquil beauty of the Falls, relax, and connect with history without the usual urban frenzy.
Years ago, a resourceful resident conceived the idea of embracing the town’s diminishing size by calling it the “World’s largest living ghost town.” While initially met with mixed reactions, the concept resonated, attracting numerous artists and craftsmen. Within a few short years, this unique approach drew thousands of visitors annually. Though many artists and performers have since moved on, and Elk Falls once again leans into its
