Nestled in Dickinson County, approximately 95 miles west of Topeka, Abilene, Kansas, stands as a city rich in history, from its roots as a pioneering settlement to its legendary status as a booming cattle town and the cherished boyhood home of a U.S. President. This iconic Kansas locale, situated on the north bank of the Smoky Hill River, began its journey long before the thundering cattle drives defined its legacy. First settled in 1858 by Timothy and Eliza Hersey, the town was aptly named from a biblical passage, meaning “city of the plains.” The Herseys quickly established Abilene, Kansas, as an essential stop on the Butterfield Overland Stage Line, offering travelers and employees “the last square meal east of Denver” from their modest two log houses.
Early Foundations and the Arrival of the Railroad
As more homesteaders arrived, early structures began to dot the landscape. C.H. Thompson constructed “the Hotel” on the east bank of Mud Creek, followed by “Old Man Jones,” who opened a log house store, primarily selling whiskey. Recognizing the impending statehood of the Kansas Territory, C.H. Thompson formally laid out the town in 1860, establishing a post office by December 6, 1860. However, Abilene’s quiet existence was dramatically transformed when Joseph G. McCoy, a visionary livestock dealer from Illinois, identified it as the ideal railhead for shipping Texas cattle. McCoy was drawn to the area’s abundant grass and water, envisioning a bustling commercial center. He famously described the nascent town in 1867 as “a very small, dead place, consisting of about one dozen log huts, low, small, rude affairs, four-fifths of which were covered with dirt for roofing; indeed, but one shingle roof could be seen in the whole city.”
Despite its humble beginnings, the completion of the Kansas Pacific Railroad to Abilene in 1867 catalyzed rapid growth. McCoy aggressively marketed Abilene, Kansas, across Texas, building stockyards and the renowned “Drover’s Cottage” hotel. By the end of 1867, an astonishing 35,000 cattle had been driven to Abilene for shipment to eastern markets. Under McCoy’s leadership, the town reigned supreme as the primary market for Texas cattle for four transformative years, shaping much of its Old West identity.
Lawlessness and the Quest for Order
The prosperity brought by the cattle trade also attracted a rougher element. Gamblers, confidence men, cowboys, and “soiled doves” converged on Abilene, often overwhelming the law-abiding citizens. Shooting affrays became commonplace, and the turbulent atmosphere prompted the city’s incorporation on September 6, 1869, with Joseph G. McCoy elected as its first mayor. The new city government immediately sought to establish order, though not without resistance. An early attempt to build a stone jail was famously thwarted by a band of cowboys who tore it down. In 1870, a more substantial brick-and-stone courthouse was erected, along with the Merchant’s Hotel, providing much-needed lodging for the influx of cowboys.
The Marshals of Abilene: Smith and Hickok
Recognizing the urgent need for strong leadership, Abilene, Kansas, hired Thomas J. “Bear River” Smith as its first Chief of Police on June 4, 1870. Smith, despite a less imposing physique, possessed immense courage and diplomatic skill. He famously issued an order prohibiting firearms within city limits without a permit, a directive largely respected even by the most unruly characters. Known as the “No Gun Marshal,” Smith gained a reputation for subduing assailants with his fists, bringing a measure of law and order to the chaotic town. Tragically, Smith’s tenure was cut short on November 2, 1870, when he was brutally murdered while attempting to arrest an accused killer.
Smith’s successor, appointed on April 15, 1871, was none other than the legendary “Wild Bill” Hickok, renowned for his deadly marksmanship. Hickok’s presence alone often deterred trouble, and he frequently used his reputation to enforce the law. However, Hickok was also known for spending considerable time at the Alamo Saloon, the heart of Abilene’s nightlife, mingling with gamblers and ladies of the evening rather than solely focusing on his marshal duties. His most infamous incident occurred on October 5, 1871, during a confrontation with Phil Coe near the Alamo Saloon. In a chaotic exchange, Hickok shot Coe and tragically, in a swift turn, accidentally killed Deputy Mike Williams, who was rushing to his aid.
The End of an Era and New Beginnings
By late 1871, the citizens of Abilene, Kansas, had reached their limit with the rampant lawlessness and the cattle drives. The city fathers decreed that no more cattle drives would pass through their town, and two months later, Hickok was dismissed as city marshal. This marked the end of Abilene’s reign as a prominent cowtown, with new railheads emerging in Newton, Wichita, and Ellsworth. Over its four-year peak, Abilene facilitated the shipment of more than three million head of cattle up the 1,000-mile Chisholm Trail. With the cowboys gone, the town quickly transformed into a peaceful, law-abiding community.
As the cattle era faded, new economic opportunities arose. Theodore Henry, who had previously promoted McCoy’s stockyards, shifted his focus to agriculture. He famously introduced Turkey red winter wheat to Kansas, secretly planting 5,000 acres and proving its viability despite skepticism. By the mid-1870s, Henry owned thousands of acres and earned the moniker “Wheat King of Kansas,” profoundly impacting the state’s agricultural future. His historic carriage house can still be seen today at Old Abilene Town.
Abilene’s Enduring Legacy: Eisenhower and Community Spirit
Beyond its Old West notoriety, Abilene, Kansas, would later claim another profound connection to American history as the boyhood home of Dwight D. Eisenhower. The Eisenhower family moved to Abilene from Denison, Texas, in 1892, and young Dwight attended elementary and high school here, always considering it his true home. Eisenhower, who later became the 34th President of the United States, chose Abilene as his final resting place, alongside his wife Mamie and one of his sons. Today, the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum, & Boyhood Home stands as a significant national landmark in the city.
Abilene’s spirit of community and care for its residents is further exemplified by the establishment of the St. Joseph School for Girls in 1888 by the Sisters of St. Joseph of Concordia. This institution later transformed, in 1915, into an orphanage and home for the aged. Under the remarkable leadership of Sister Xavier Cunningham, who possessed farming experience, the facility became self-sufficient. Sister Cunningham established a thriving farm with a registered Holstein herd, 500 hens, and 12 brood sows, growing a variety of vegetables and fruits. Her tireless efforts not only fed up to 80 children and elderly residents but also generated funds to sustain the program through challenging times, including the Great Depression, while also providing employment for many of the boys living there. Sister Cunningham’s incredible legacy continued until her retirement in 1944 due to poor health.
Conclusion: A City of Resilience and Historic Significance
From its humble beginnings as a prairie settlement to its dramatic tenure as the quintessential Queen of the Cowtowns, and ultimately, as the revered home of an American President, Abilene, Kansas, embodies a spirit of resilience and transformation. Its rich tapestry of stories—featuring pioneering settlers, daring marshals, agricultural innovators, and dedicated caregivers—paints a vivid picture of a town that has continually reinvented itself. Today, Abilene stands as a vibrant community that proudly preserves its diverse history while looking toward the future, inviting visitors to explore its legendary past and the profound impact it has had on the American narrative. It remains a testament to the enduring character of the American West and a significant landmark in our nation’s history.
