Mesa Verde National Park, Spanish for “green table,” stands majestically in southwest Colorado, offering an unparalleled window into the lives of the Ancient Puebloan people. This remarkable national park, encompassing 52,073 acres, preserves over 600 extraordinary cliff dwellings and approximately 4,000 known archaeological sites, many of which remain unexcavated.
The region around Mesa Verde was continuously inhabited for approximately 800 years by agricultural communities. These early inhabitants began settling the area shortly after the beginning of the Christian Era, marking the dawn of a rich cultural history that would shape the landscape.
The Evolution of Ancient Puebloan Culture at Mesa Verde
The Early Basketmakers (100 A.D. – 400 A.D.)
The first farming people in the Mesa Verde area are known as the Basketmakers, a name derived from their exceptional skill in weaving intricate baskets. During this early period, the people had not yet developed pottery, constructed permanent houses, or utilized the bow and arrow. Interestingly, no sites definitively dating from these early Basketmakers have been discovered within the current boundaries of Mesa Verde National Park itself.
The Modified Basketmakers (400 A.D. – 750 A.D.)
Around 400 A.D., a significant cultural shift occurred as the inhabitants began to produce pottery and build more substantial, roofed dwellings. Approximately 250 years later, around 750 A.D., the bow and arrow became a staple tool. This period of gradual development and innovation is referred to by archaeologists as the Modified Basketmaker era. During this time, pithouses, semi-subterranean dwellings, were constructed in alcoves and on the mesa tops. Dozens of these sites have been identified across the mesas, with two having been carefully reconstructed for modern understanding.
The Pueblo Period (750 A.D. – 1100 A.D.)
Beginning around 750 A.D., the people started to group their individual houses into more compact villages, which archaeologists and historians refer to as “pueblos,” a Spanish term meaning village. A variety of construction methods were employed for house walls, including adobe and poles, stone slabs topped with adobe, mixtures of adobe and stone, and eventually, refined layered masonry. These houses were strategically joined together, forming dense clusters around open communal courts. Within these courts, pithouses evolved, becoming progressively deeper and eventually transforming into the specialized ceremonial rooms known today as kivas.
The Classic Pueblo Period and the Iconic Cliff Dwellings (1100 A.D. – 1300 A.D.)
The zenith of the Pueblo culture at Mesa Verde National Park is marked by the Classic Pueblo Period. During this era, particularly after 1100 A.D., the Ancient Puebloans began to relocate from the mesa tops, constructing their remarkable homes within the natural alcoves and overhangs that are abundant in the many canyon walls of the region. These spectacular cliff dwellings represent the pinnacle of their architectural and engineering achievements, showcasing their adaptability and ingenuity.
The Great Departure: The Mystery of the Mesa Verde Abandonment
The prosperity of the Classic Pueblo Period came to an abrupt end. Beginning in A.D. 1276, the region was struck by a severe and prolonged drought that lasted for 23 years, bringing scarce precipitation. As the springs dried up one by one, the survival of the communities became untenable. Facing dire circumstances, the inhabitants had no alternative but to seek areas with more reliable water sources. Village after village was abandoned. By the time the extensive drought finally ended, the entire Mesa Verde National Park area had been completely depopulated, leaving behind the silent, enduring structures as a testament to their presence.
Rediscovery and the Birth of a National Park
The first documented mention of Mesa Verde by European Americans occurred in 1859 during Captain J.N. Macomb’s expedition through what is now Utah. Professor J.S. Newberry, accompanying Macomb, submitted a geological report and described ascending one of Mesa Verde’s highest points, possibly Park Point. However, his account made no mention of the hidden cliff dwellings, suggesting his exploration was not in-depth.
The true “discovery” of the cliff dwellings by white men began in September 1874, when William H. Jackson, a photographer for the U.S. Geological and Geographical Survey, was led by prospector John Moss into Mancos Canyon. There, Jackson entered Two-Story Cliff House in what is now Ute Mountain Tribal Park, marking the first known entry. He also identified other smaller cliff dwellings but only named this one.
The following year, W.H. Holmes, leading another government survey party, discovered Sixteen Window House in Mancos Canyon. Over the subsequent decades, more explorers brought to light other magnificent sites, including Balcony House, Cliff Palace, and Square Tower House, among many others.
For many centuries, the pueblos remained unoccupied, subjected to the relentless forces of nature. Tragically, some were also severely damaged by looters before any significant protective measures were put in place.
The concept of preserving this invaluable cultural landscape as a national park first emerged in a Denver Tribune Republican editorial on December 12, 1886. However, it would take many years and numerous legislative attempts before action was taken. While several bills were introduced in Congress between 1901 and 1905, it wasn’t until June 29, 1906, that President Theodore Roosevelt officially established Mesa Verde National Park. This landmark designation made it the first National Park of its kind, specifically created to “preserve the works of man” rather than natural wonders, underscoring the profound historical and archaeological significance of the site.
Visiting Mesa Verde Today: A Journey Through Time
Today, the dedicated staff at Mesa Verde National Park are committed to the ongoing preservation of both its irreplaceable cultural and natural resources. Visitors have the unique opportunity to access archaeological sites spanning centuries, from the early pithouses of the 500s to the grandeur of the cliff dwellings constructed in the 1200s.
While the monumental cliff dwellings are arguably the most spectacular attractions, the equally important mesa top pithouses and pueblos offer crucial insights into the architectural evolution of the Ancient Puebloans. To ensure their maximum protection and preservation, strict regulations are enforced: visitors may enter the cliff dwellings ONLY when accompanied by a knowledgeable Park Ranger. However, the park also offers more than 20 mesa top sites and numerous scenic viewpoints that can be explored independently. It is important to note that some sites may be closed seasonally during the winter months.
Located in Southwestern Colorado, the Mesa Verde Headquarters is conveniently accessible. It’s approximately a one-hour drive east from Cortez, Colorado, via Highway 160, and a 1.5-hour drive west from Durango, Colorado, also on Highway 160 to the park turnoff. The park is open daily throughout the year and provides a comprehensive visitor experience, featuring a Visitor Center, a museum, both guided and self-guided tours, scenic hiking trails, and a well-appointed campground. Visitors are encouraged to plan ahead and check for current alerts and conditions before their visit.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Mesa Verde
Mesa Verde National Park stands as a powerful monument to the ingenuity, resilience, and complex social structures of the Ancient Puebloan people. Its well-preserved cliff dwellings and mesa top sites offer an unparalleled opportunity to connect with a sophisticated culture that thrived for centuries before its mysterious departure. As a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mesa Verde continues to educate and inspire, reminding us of the rich tapestry of human history woven into the very fabric of the American Southwest. It is a testament to the importance of preserving cultural heritage for future generations, ensuring that the legacy of these ancient inhabitants endures.
