Nestled about 18 miles southwest of Buena Vista, Colorado, stands the remarkable Alpine Tunnel, a testament to 19th-century railroad engineering and human perseverance. Once the highest railroad tunnel in the world, this historic narrow-gauge passage through the Continental Divide represented an unparalleled feat of construction.
The Genesis of a Mountain Passage: Building the Alpine Tunnel
In November 1879, the Denver, South Park, and Pacific Railroad initiated an ambitious project to connect the burgeoning mining town of St. Elmo to Pitkin, Colorado. At the heart of this endeavor was the construction of the Alpine Tunnel, a critical link to tap into the anticipated mineral wealth of the region. Work began simultaneously from both ends of the planned tunnel, with crews battling extreme conditions at an altitude of 11,523 feet above sea level.
The lure of a new mining “bonanza” drew as many as 10,000 different men to the construction site over time, though a core crew of around 400 worked steadily. The work was brutal, characterized by intense cold and harsh mountain weather. Laborers earned $3.50 per day, while explosives men commanded $5.00 daily, often forced to travel in groups to avoid being lost in the deep snows.
Construction Challenges and Triumphs
Excavation of the tunnel commenced in January 1880, with an optimistic six-month completion target. However, the severe winter conditions and unforeseen geological challenges quickly dispelled these hopes. The project stretched over two years, exceeding its initial budget by approximately $180,000, ultimately costing around $300,000. A significant hurdle was the crumbling granite encountered deep within the tunnel, necessitating the use of over 400,000 board feet of California redwood to support and encase 80% of its length.
Despite these immense difficulties, the two crews finally met in July 1881, marking a pivotal moment in the tunnel’s construction. It would take another year of intensive work before the passage was fully ready for train traffic. In July 1882, the first narrow-gauge train triumphantly passed through the Alpine Tunnel. Measuring 1,772 feet long and situated over two miles above sea level and 500 feet below Altman Pass (later renamed Alpine Pass), it stood as the most expensive railroad tunnel built up to that time, an extraordinary accomplishment against nature.
Life and Logistics at the Summit: Alpine Tunnel Station and Surrounding Settlements
Beyond the west portal of the Alpine Tunnel, the Alpine Tunnel Station came into existence, establishing itself as the highest railroad station in the United States. This bustling hub included a turntable for reversing locomotives, a vital water tank, a stone boarding house for crew members, and an engine house spacious enough to shelter six engines. From this strategic point, the Denver, South Park, and Pacific tracks extended onward towards Gunnison, creating a critical artery for commerce and communication.
The completion of this engineering marvel brought immense relief to those who previously endured the treacherous task of hauling supplies and mail across the daunting passes of Tin Cup, Taylor, and Altman. Along the winding tracks, several small settlements flourished, some dedicated to servicing the railroad and others housing the numerous miners drawn to the area’s rich resources. These included the townsites of Woodstock, Quartz, Sherrod, and Pitkin on the western end of the line, and the well-known St. Elmo at the eastern terminus.
The Avalanche at Woodstock
For the initial years, the railway line and the Alpine Tunnel operated relatively smoothly, despite the high elevation and harsh winter climate. However, tragedy struck in March 1884 when the town of Woodstock was annihilated by a devastating avalanche. The disaster buried 18 individuals, claiming the lives of 13, including six children. With a population that once reached 200 residents, Woodstock was never rebuilt. Many of its survivors relocated to the nearby settlement of Sherrod, and a new railroad water tank was constructed half a mile down the grade. Today, only a few stone foundations, decaying timbers, and a historical marker remain as silent witnesses to Woodstock’s past.
A Battle Against Nature and Economics: The Decline of the Alpine Tunnel
The relentless challenges of high altitude and severe winter conditions eventually began to take their toll on the Alpine Tunnel and its railway operations. Between 1887 and 1889, and again from 1890 to 1894, the tunnel was forced to close during the unforgiving winter months. Concurrently, the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad entered receivership in August 1889. It re-emerged as the Denver, Leadville & Gunnison line under the control of the Union Pacific Railroad, a company that itself would face receivership just five years later.
A Series of Disasters and Financial Strain
The year 1895 brought two more significant disasters to the tunnel. During the strenuous process of reopening the tunnel after winter, four crew members tragically suffocated. Not long after, in May, a train wreck near the tunnel claimed the lives of two more men. The financial struggles of the line persisted until 1899, when the Colorado and Southern Railway Company was formed through the merger of the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad, Union Pacific, and Denver & Gulf railroads, aiming to stabilize operations.
Despite the new corporate structure, the line continued to be plagued by a continuous string of accidents and severe storms throughout its roughly 30-year operational life. In 1901, a passenger coach and ten loaded freight cars were completely engulfed by snow. Another train wreck occurred west of the tunnel in 1904. Just two years later, a fire tragically destroyed the engine house, and yet another collision took place inside the tunnel itself.
Ultimately, the financial burden and the inherent dangers associated with maintaining the high-altitude route proved insurmountable. The railroad company made the difficult decision to abandon the perilous and accident-prone tunnel. The last train passed through the Alpine Tunnel in November 1910, marking the end of an era. Within a decade, the vast majority of the old track had been removed, leaving behind a fading legacy.
Preserving a Legacy: The Alpine Tunnel Historic District Today
Today, the area surrounding this historic passage is recognized as the Alpine Tunnel Historic District. This district encompasses a two-hundred-foot-wide right-of-way stretching thirteen miles along the original Denver, South Park, and Pacific rail bed, connecting the historic townsites of Quartz and Hancock. While the tunnel’s east portal collapsed many years ago and landslides now obscure the west portal, the district nonetheless offers a vivid window into its prosperous early years and the challenges overcome.
From Hancock westward, the former rail bed has been transformed into a popular hiking trail. The west side of the tunnel can also be accessed via a challenging and very rough road, which follows the old rail bed, leading visitors to the meticulously restored railroad station house. Although some resources list this 4-wheel drive trail as “easy,” many, including experienced visitors, consider it quite demanding, especially due to the increased roughness caused by extensive ATV traffic. Visitors should be prepared for a truly rugged journey, often best traversed by ATVs, mountain bikes, or on foot.
The Alpine Historical District is typically open from July to September, offering a narrow dirt road that winds upward for approximately ten miles to the tunnel. Starting northeast of Pitkin, Colorado, at the junction of Cumberland Pass Road (FDR 765) and Alpine Tunnel Road (FDR 839), the first seven miles are rough but generally manageable for a four-wheel-drive jeep. Along this initial stretch, adventurers can explore the old town sites of Quartz, Woodstock, and Sherrod, observe numerous mining remnants, a restored railroad water tank, and sections of the original tracks.
However, beyond Sherrod, where the road forks (one rocky path to Hancock, the other to the Alpine Tunnel), the trail becomes extremely narrow, steep, and exceptionally rocky. This segment is highly recommended for ATVs, mountain bikes, or hiking only, a conclusion shared by several locals and ATV groups in the area. The trail, utilizing the old narrow-gauge railroad bed, offers breathtaking views, particularly when traversing the “Palisades” – an impressive 432-foot-long, 33-foot-high retaining wall built of hand-cut, mortarless stones.
The trail culminates at the Alpine Station, where the remnants of the old engine house can still be seen alongside the restored station, telegraph office, and the historic railroad roundtable. A short walk is required for the final approach, as ATVs and vehicles are restricted just before the station. The west portal of the tunnel is located approximately an eighth of a mile beyond the station, standing as a silent monument to its past.
Conclusion: A Legacy Forged in Granite and Steel
The Alpine Tunnel stands as an enduring symbol of American ingenuity and perseverance in the face of overwhelming natural obstacles. From its ambitious conception as the world’s highest railroad tunnel and the first through the Continental Divide, to its tumultuous operational life plagued by extreme weather, geological challenges, and economic hardships, it represents a remarkable chapter in Colorado’s history. Though its active days as a railway artery are long past, the Alpine Tunnel Historic District preserves its legacy, inviting modern adventurers to experience the rugged beauty and profound history of this engineering marvel. It reminds us of the extraordinary efforts undertaken to conquer the wild frontier and the indelible marks left on the landscape by those who dared to dream big.
