Tucked away in the majestic San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway offers an unparalleled journey through some of the state’s most rugged and historically rich terrain. This iconic, 65-mile circular route, often called simply the Alpine Loop, provides an immersive experience into the heart of the Old West, blending breathtaking natural scenery with the enduring legacy of mining pioneers.
Sculpted over millennia by volcanoes, glaciers, wind, and rain, the resulting mountains, valleys, streams, and alpine lakes are a true masterpiece of nature’s artistry. The area was originally home to the Ute Indian tribe before the arrival of miners in the 1800s, drawn by the promise of silver, gold, lead, and zinc. These hardy prospectors carved a network of challenging roads through this unforgiving landscape to transport ore and supplies to burgeoning towns like Silverton, Ouray, and Lake City.
Discovering the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway
The Alpine Loop connects the charming mountain towns of Lake City, Ouray, and Silverton. The main loop begins south of Lake City along CO-149, turning west onto County Road 30 over Cinnamon Pass towards Animas Forks, then returning east over Engineer Pass to Lake City along County Road 20. Today, while the once-bustling mines and mills lie quiet, the intricate network of roads remains, offering a tangible link to Colorado’s storied past.
Unlike most scenic byways that traverse paved highways, the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway is distinctively focused on off-the-beaten-path sights accessible via gravel and dirt roads. This designation as one of the Bureau of Land Management’s first backcountry byways highlights its commitment to preserving and showcasing remote, historic landscapes. Numerous visible exploration pits and tunnels dot the landscape, offering compelling evidence of the extensive prospecting that once defined this region. Historic mines such as the Hidden Treasure, Ute-Ulay, Golden Fleece, Little Giant, and Pride of the West are just a few of the more than 70 lodes that captivated 19th-century entrepreneurs. The skeletons of former boomtowns like Animas Forks, Mineral Point, and Capitol City serve as poignant reminders of a bygone era.
Essential Preparation for Your Alpine Loop Adventure
Embarking on the Alpine Loop requires careful planning and the right equipment to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey through its challenging yet rewarding landscape.
Vehicle Requirements and Seasonal Access
The Alpine Loop is not suitable for all vehicles. Portions of the road are unpaved and demand a four-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicle. The byway features numerous narrow twists and blind curves that require attentive driving. Depending on winter snowmelt, the Loop typically opens in late May or early June and closes in late October. Always check current conditions before departing.
Safety and Connectivity
A crucial aspect of preparing for the Alpine Loop is understanding its remote nature. Electronics and wireless devices, including cell phones, have very limited to no service in most areas along the byway. It is imperative to download or print hard-copy maps before your trip. Always inform someone of your travel plans and ensure you have plenty of water, food, and fuel to reach your destination, as services are scarce on the loop itself. The estimated driving time for the entire 65-mile loop is between 4-6 hours, but this can vary significantly based on stops and road conditions.
Courtesy Rules of the Alpine Loop
To ensure a safe and respectful experience for all visitors and to preserve the fragile environment, observe these essential courtesy rules:
- Stay on designated roads to protect sensitive ecosystems.
- Obey all posted signs for parking and trails.
- Drive slowly and remain vigilant for oncoming traffic, as roads can be narrow.
- Stay on your side of the road on blind curves, and consider a light honk to warn oncoming vehicles.
- Uphill traffic traditionally has the right-of-way on steep sections.
- Avoid parking or stopping on narrow sections of the road. Utilize designated pull-outs or wider areas for stopping.
- Most traffic moves in a clockwise direction, and it is highly suggested that you do so as well. This practice significantly helps to mitigate traffic jams on the narrow shelf sections of the route.
Exploring Historical Sites Along the Byway
Beyond the breathtaking natural beauty, the Alpine Loop is dotted with numerous historical sites, each telling a piece of the region’s rich mining heritage.
Animas Forks: A Well-Preserved Ghost Town
Established in 1875 and occupied until the 1920s, Animas Forks is arguably one of the most popular destinations along the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway. Once a bustling community with numerous buildings and mill sites, today it features nine remarkably preserved structures, including the two-story Duncan House, the Columbus Mill, and the site’s oldest building, the jail. Interpretive signs provide historical context for the foundations and other decaying structures. From Animas Forks, the Alpine Loop Road continues north along County Road 2 towards Engineer Pass, while San Juan County Road 2 heads southwest to Silverton. A scenic side spur, County Road 9, loops west of Animas Forks around Treasure Mountain, revealing several mines and mills, including the well-preserved Sound Democrat Mill.
Mineral Point: Mining Remains and Rugged Trails
From Animas Forks, San Juan County Road 2 climbs towards Engineer Pass. Approximately 2.7 miles north of Animas Forks, the trail reaches a crossroads where County Road 17 branches to the left. About a mile to the west, visitors can glimpse mining remains in the valley below, accessible via several dirt trails. Mineral Point thrived from the 1870s through the 1890s. County Road 17 continues northwest, transitioning into Ouray County Road 18, eventually connecting with Highway 550 and Ouray. This section can be extremely difficult, with some portions recommended only for expert 4×4 drivers. To continue the main Alpine Loop tour, travelers should return east on County Road 17 and rejoin County Road 2.
Engineer Pass: Summit Views and Historic Toll Road
Located 2.3 miles north of the County Road 17/County Road 2 intersection, Engineer Pass sits at an impressive elevation of 12,800 feet. The views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular, offering panoramic vistas that include Mt. Sneffels (14,150 feet) to the west, Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 feet) to the northeast, and the vast, extinct Lake City volcanic caldera to the east, which the Loop Road encircles. The first toll road over Engineer Pass was completed in 1877 by Otto Mears, becoming a vital route connecting Silverton, Animas Forks, Ouray, and Lake City. As the Alpine Loop trail crosses the pass, it transitions into Hinsdale County Road 20.
Galena Mining District: Echoes of the Mining Boom
Beyond Engineer Pass lies the Galena Mining District, a 16-mile stretch extending east from the Ouray-San Juan county line towards Lake City. Near the top of Engineer Pass’s east side, approximately 500 feet from the Alpine Loop Trail, was the Frank Hough Mine. This mine, along with the nearby Palmetto Mine and Mill, was owned by John S. Hough, a close friend of Kit Carson. Peak mining activity occurred in the early 1880s, and a mining camp known as Engineer City was established here in 1881. Today, only a portion of the Palmetto Gulch Powderhouse and scattered debris remain as testaments to these operations. Further down the road, the Empire Chief Mine, mill, and boarding house, initially discovered in 1885, operated intermittently until 1930. Although stabilized in 2000, it was unfortunately destroyed by an avalanche in 2008, with its fallen timbers still visible along the mountainside.
Rose’s Cabin: A Vanished Mining Camp
About three miles east of Engineer Pass’s summit, a sign marks the site of Rose’s Cabin. Built in 1874 by Corydon Rose, this site evolved into a small complex featuring a saloon, hotel, stable, store, and post office. A mining camp that once housed approximately 50 people flourished here, but by 1900, the settlement was deserted. Today, only the weathered timbers of an old building and an old safe, sitting solitary in the meadow, hint at its former life.
Golconda Mine: Preserving Industrial Heritage
Further along the route, beyond Rose’s Cabin, travelers encounter the intersection of County Road 20 and County Road 21. Following County Road 21 across Henson Creek for 1.5 miles leads to the historic Golconda Mine complex. Here stands the century-old Golconda Boarding House, notably the largest remaining standing log structure accessible to the public on the east side of the Alpine Loop, stabilized in 2015. Southeast of the boarding house is the compressor building, which still houses intact machinery, offering a unique glimpse into hard rock mining operations.
Rose Lime Kiln: A Monument to Industry
Back on Hinsdale County Road 20, visitors will soon come upon Rose’s Lime Kiln. This impressive 44-foot-tall structure was constructed by George S. Lee, owner of the Lee Mining & Smelting company in Capitol City. It once produced an ash-free lime, crucial as a cement additive, and was named after Rose Lee, George and Mary Jane Lee’s daughter. The kiln is now proudly listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Whitmore Falls: A Scenic Detour
Located approximately ten miles west of Lake City, Whitmore Falls is a delightful natural stop along the trail. Clearly marked by a wooden sign proclaiming “Whitmore Falls Scenic Overlook,” a short downhill walk leads to an observation point, offering a sensational photo opportunity amidst the natural beauty.
Capitol City: A Founder’s Dream
Just two miles beyond Whitmore Falls, the trail reaches the historic mining camp of Capitol City. Founded in 1877 by George Lee, who envisioned his town as the ideal future capital of Colorado. In its early days, the mining camp thrived, boasting several hotels, restaurants, saloons, smelters, a sawmill, a post office, a schoolhouse, and numerous homes, supporting a population of 400. However, the dramatic drop in silver prices in the 1890s triggered a decline, and its post office closed in 1920. Today, only the original post office and a few other log buildings remain, a quiet testament to a grand dream.
Pike Snowden Cabin: A Miner’s Retreat
About 3.5 miles east of Capitol City lies the site of the Pike Snowden Cabin. Constructed in the late 1870s near the confluence of Henson and Nellie Creeks, this cabin was home to Pike Snowden, a colorful character in local lore. Snowden lived here until around 1915, diligently prospecting for lead and silver in the surrounding mountains. Intriguingly, the cabin features bars on its windows, said to be a remnant of Snowden’s fear of being shot in his sleep after winning a significant sum in a poker game in Creede, Colorado.
Henson and the Ute-Ulay Mines: Powering Lake City’s Growth
Approximately a mile and a half beyond the Snowden Cabin, the trail leads to the old mining town of Henson. This was a rough-and-tumble town that flourished during the operation of the Ute-Ulay Mine between 1874 and 1903. At its peak, the Ute-Ulay Mine was one of Colorado’s best-known silver and lead producers and played a primary role in the development and prosperity of Lake City. Although the mines continued to produce intermittently through the 1980s, nothing remains of the original townsite today. However, numerous historic buildings associated with the mining operations can still be seen, and the Ute-Ulay Mine and Mill site are proudly listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
Final Thoughts on the Alpine Loop
The Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway is truly more than just a drive; it is a profound journey through time and nature. It invites visitors to step back into the era of the Old West, where the pursuit of fortune carved communities into the rugged San Juan Mountains. From high-alpine vistas and vibrant wildflowers to the ghostly echoes of mining towns and the raw beauty of untamed wilderness, this byway offers a uniquely rewarding experience. Whether you are a history buff, an outdoor enthusiast, a photographer, or simply seeking an adventure off the paved path, the Alpine Loop promises unforgettable memories. Remember to plan carefully, prepare thoroughly, and respect the natural and historical integrity of this extraordinary Colorado treasure. Experience the untamed beauty and enduring spirit of Colorado’s mining frontier.
