Nestled about 12 miles northeast of Glenwood, Mogollon, New Mexico, stands as one of the Land of Enchantment’s most captivating ghost towns. Pronounced “muggy-YOHN” by locals, this historic locale is a dream for enthusiasts of the Old West, boasting well-preserved buildings from a once-thriving mining camp that yielded millions in precious metals. Despite enduring numerous devastating floods and fires, and its remarkably isolated location, Mogollon steadfastly clings to its storied past.
The saga of Mogollon began in 1870 when James Cooney, a soldier with the 8th U.S. Cavalry from Fort Bayard, was on a scouting mission in the rugged Mineral Creek Canyon. North of where the bustling mining camp would eventually rise, Cooney stumbled upon remarkably rich deposits of gold and silver. Unlike many prospectors of his era, Cooney chose to keep his valuable discovery a closely guarded secret, unable to work the claims due to his ongoing military service.
The Lure of Gold and Silver: Cooney’s Discovery and Apache Conflicts
Upon his discharge from the Army in 1876, Cooney wasted no time returning to the promising area, where he promptly filed several claims. He and his partner, Harry McAllister, soon began to develop their findings, but their efforts were repeatedly interrupted by the fierce resistance of the local Apache tribes. Chased out of the region initially, their determination saw them return two years later, ready to earnestly work the rich veins. News of the substantial mineral finds quickly spread, drawing a steady stream of prospectors eager to carve out their own fortunes in the rugged New Mexico landscape.
However, the influx of miners into traditional Apache territories inevitably led to escalating conflicts. The prospectors faced constant peril from the angered Apache. In a tragic turn of events in April 1880, Chiricahua Apache, under the formidable leadership of Chief Victorio, launched a series of devastating raids throughout the area. These attacks included Cooney’s claim, where James C. Cooney, along with two other prospectors, was tragically killed. This brutal event, often referred to as the “Alma Massacre,” also claimed the lives of 35 area sheepherders, underscoring the extreme dangers faced by early settlers.
Despite the persistent threat of Indian raids, the lure of gold and silver proved irresistible, and the flood of prospectors continued unabated. James Cooney’s brother, Michael, journeyed from New Orleans to inherit and continue his brother’s mining operations. As a lasting tribute, Michael constructed a unique vault from a massive boulder, sealed with silver-bearing ore from Cooney’s Mine, as a permanent resting place for his fallen brother. This poignant memorial still stands today at Cooney Cemetery, approximately seven miles east of Alma, New Mexico, a testament to the family’s enduring legacy.
Boom and Bust: The Rise and Fall of a Mining Empire
In the wake of these early discoveries and conflicts, other miners also made significant strikes, leading to the rapid emergence of the mining camp of Mogollon in Silver Creek Canyon. By 1890, the burgeoning community had established a post office and a jail, signifying its growing stability and importance. Two years later, the town’s first school was built, providing education for the children of the miners and settlers. The vital Silver City and Mogollon Stage provided crucial transportation and freight services, connecting the isolated camp to Silver City, a journey of some eighty miles that typically spanned about 15 arduous hours.
Mogollon’s Prolific Mines and Harsh Realities
Several major mines flourished in the area, including the Maud S., Deep Down, Last Chance, and the most renowned and profitable of them all, the Little Fannie. While the Little Fannie Mine was the largest employer and the greatest producer of ore, it was also infamous for its intensely dusty conditions. This environment led to widespread cases of “Miner’s Consumption,” or what is now known as “Black Lung” disease, resulting in a rapid turnover of workers. Consequently, Mogollon experienced a highly transient population, fluctuating dramatically between 3,000 and 6,000 residents during the 1890s, reflecting the boom-and-bust cycle of the mining industry.
During its heyday, Mogollon earned a reputation as one of the wildest and most lawless mining towns in the American West. Its streets were a magnet for gamblers, stagecoach robbers, ruthless claim jumpers, and dangerous gunmen, all of whom found a temporary, if not permanent, home in the rowdy camp. The town’s social fabric was a volatile mix of hard work, desperation, and unfettered opportunity.
A Town Forged in Fire and Flood
From its very inception, Mogollon was a community constantly battling the destructive forces of nature. The town was repeatedly plagued by devastating fires and floods. The first major conflagration struck in 1894, incinerating the majority of the wooden buildings. Yet, the resilient citizens of Mogollon refused to surrender, rebuilding their town with more durable brick and adobe structures. That same year, the mining camp suffered a catastrophic flood, as melting snows and heavy spring rains caused Silver Creek to overflow its banks, sweeping away homes, mining operations, and tragically, some residents. Further floods followed in 1896, 1899, and 1914, each bringing renewed destruction. Fires continued to ravage the town in 1904, 1910, 1915, and 1942, each time causing immense devastation.
By 1909, Mogollon’s population stood at approximately 2,000 inhabitants. The town boasted a vibrant commercial district that supported five saloons, two bustling restaurants, four general stores, two hotels, and several brothels concentrated in two infamous red-light districts. It also featured the Midway Theatre, a bakery, a photographer, a couple of doctors, and various other essential retail businesses, reflecting a thriving, if somewhat wild, economy.
Despite a gradual population decline due to advancements in mining technology and the slow depletion of ore, 1913 proved to be a banner year, with an estimated 1.5 million dollars in minerals extracted from the area’s mines. However, tragedy would again strike the Cooney family. In 1914, Michael Cooney, who had taken over his brother’s original claims, ventured into the mountains for more gold but failed to return. Search parties were organized but were forced to abandon their efforts with the onset of winter at high elevations. Four months later, Michael Cooney’s body was discovered in a nearby canyon; he had succumbed to the harsh elements, freezing to death.
By 1915, Mogollon’s population had settled around 1,500 residents, who were then able to enjoy modern amenities such as electricity, running water, and telephone services, marking a period of relative comfort and advancement amidst the challenging frontier life.
Decline, Resilience, and a Ghost Town’s Legacy
The dawn of World War I delivered the initial, devastating blow that would ultimately lead to Mogollon’s demise. The wartime economy significantly reduced the demand for gold and silver, forcing many of the area’s mines to cease operations. By 1930, the once-bustling town had dwindled to a mere two hundred inhabitants, a stark reminder of its volatile nature.
A brief resurgence occurred in the late 1930s when gold prices experienced a temporary rise, breathing a fleeting new life into Mogollon. However, this renewed vitality was short-lived. World War II again depressed gold values, and a catastrophic fire in 1942 nearly reduced the town to a complete ghost town overnight. Despite these repeated setbacks, the few remaining residents persevered. The resilient Little Fanny Mine continued to produce until the early 1950s, when it, too, finally fell silent. Over its operational lifespan, the mines of Mogollon collectively yielded nearly 20 million dollars in gold and silver, a testament to their immense richness.
Mogollon Today: A Living Museum
With its mines finally silent, Mogollon officially transitioned into a ghost town. Yet, remarkably, some of its property owners chose to remain. Today, it stands as a cherished destination for ghost town enthusiasts, preserving nearly 100 historic buildings and supporting a small community of about 15 permanent residents. Recognizing its immense historical significance, the entire town was proudly placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1987. The numerous buildings, in various states of repair, now serve primarily as private residences, charming summer homes, and a handful of businesses that typically open on summer weekends, offering a glimpse into the past.
One of the most impressive and enduring structures is the Silver Creek Inn, which continues to welcome guests. Housed in an 1885 two-story adobe building, this establishment was originally known as the Mogollon House. Built by Frank Lauderbaugh and operated by Henry Johnson, the Mogollon House provided upstairs rooms for rent and sold food and general merchandise on its first floor. In 1914, the building was purchased by James Holland, a barber from Philadelphia, who opened a barbershop and general store while continuing to rent out rooms on the upper level. Holland ran his businesses for over three decades until 1948, when, with a dwindling customer base, he departed for California. For many years thereafter, the building served as a family home until it was purchased by Stan King in 1980. King meticulously renovated the historic structure into the Silver Creek Inn, a charming bed and breakfast that still operates today, offering rooms filled with character and delicious food, though it is open for very limited seasons.
Across the street from the inn stands a row of three historic stone buildings. One of these now houses the Mogollon Museum, which once served as a general merchandise store for many decades. Also open seasonally, the museum showcases local history and an impressive collection of mining artifacts, welcoming visitors on weekends from May through October. Adjacent to the museum are the old Holland’s Furniture and Notions store, along with another historic two-story building, all contributing to the town’s authentic atmosphere.
Further along the road, visitors can explore the old Silver Creek Stage Stop; the old Kelly Store, which continues to display antiques and curios; the Mogollon Theatre; and Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Church, currently undergoing renovation, much like several other old homes and cabins. Interestingly, a saloon and a general store also stand in town, though these are not original structures, but rather part of a 1973 western movie set for “My Name is Nobody,” starring Henry Fonda, adding a unique cinematic layer to Mogollon’s history.
Beyond the church and up a very steep, winding hill, about two miles upward, lies Mogollon’s 1891 cemetery. In 1918, Mogollon, like communities worldwide, was devastated by the deadly influenza pandemic during the final stages of World War I. Legend speaks of a mass grave at the cemetery for flu victims, as people reportedly died faster than they could be buried, though no marked site exists. Access to the cemetery requires a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle due to the exceptionally rough road, adding to its mystique.
Visiting Mogollon: A Journey into the Past
Mogollon is approximately 12 miles northeast of Glenwood, New Mexico. To reach this historic gem from Glenwood, travelers should take NM 180 about three miles northwest, then turn right (east) onto NM-159, also known as Bursum Road. Bursum Road traverses the scenic San Francisco River Valley, initially climbing gently through fertile ranchlands for about two miles before sharply ascending the west flank of the Mogollon Mountains. Along this challenging, more than 2,000-foot ascent, the road becomes steep and narrow in many places before finally reaching Mogollon some seven miles later. The journey offers several spectacular views and the terrain is dotted with intriguing mining remains. Visitors should also watch for abundant wildlife, including small herds of Javelina (wild pigs) and potential glimpses of the White-Nosed Coati, a curious ring-tailed cat indigenous to parts of the Southwest.
Conclusion: The Enduring Spirit of Mogollon
From its tumultuous beginnings as a secret gold discovery to its eventual transformation into a wild boomtown and then a quiet ghost town, Mogollon, New Mexico, embodies the quintessential spirit of the American West. Its history is etched with tales of immense wealth, devastating natural disasters, fierce conflicts, and the unyielding resilience of those who sought their fortunes within its rugged embrace. Today, as a designated National Register of Historic Places site, Mogollon continues to captivate visitors with its remarkably preserved architecture and vivid narratives. It stands as a powerful, tangible link to an era of pioneering ambition and a testament to the enduring legacy of New Mexico’s rich mining heritage, inviting all who venture there to step back in time and experience its unique charm.
