Tucked away north of Thompson Springs, Utah, Sego Canyon offers a captivating journey through time, revealing layers of human history etched into its desert landscape. This remarkable side trip off I-70, just west of the Utah/Colorado line, not only provides an unparalleled glimpse into ancient civilizations through its extensive collection of prehistoric rock art but also tells the poignant story of the once-thriving coal mining community known as Sego, now a silent ghost town.
Known also as Book Cliffs and Thompson Wash, Sego Canyon is a unique destination where visitors can explore petroglyphs and pictographs left by diverse cultures and wander amidst the crumbling remnants of a bygone industrial era.
Sego Canyon’s Enduring Legacy of Rock Art
Approximately 3.5 miles north of Thompson Springs, along Sego Canyon Road, lies an extraordinary gallery of rock art, a testament to the myriad peoples who once inhabited this rugged terrain. These intricate petroglyphs and colorful pictographs represent several distinct cultural periods, each offering unique insights into the beliefs, daily lives, and artistic expressions of ancient inhabitants.
The Ancient Artists of Sego Canyon
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Archaic Period (circa 7000 B.C.): The oldest art in Sego Canyon dates back to the Archaic period, demonstrating humanity’s long presence in this region. These early works often depict hunting scenes, human figures, and abstract symbols, hinting at the survival strategies and spiritual worldviews of nomadic hunter-gatherer societies.
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Barrier Canyon Period (around 2000 B.C.): The Barrier Canyon style is particularly striking and distinctive. Characterized by life-size, mummy-like human shapes that often lack arms or legs, these figures are frequently depicted with elaborate headdresses, internal body decorations, and sometimes accompanied by smaller animal figures or anthropomorphic beings. The ethereal and sometimes haunting nature of these pictographs suggests a profound spiritual or ceremonial significance.
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Fremont Culture (A.D. 600 to 1250): Contemporaneous with the Anasazi culture of the Four Corners area, the Fremont culture left behind a rich array of rock art in Sego Canyon. Their style often includes trapezoidal human figures, intricate designs, and depictions of animals, particularly bighorn sheep. Fremont art is typically more naturalistic and represents aspects of their agricultural lifestyle and spiritual practices.
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Ute Tribe (A.D. 1300 onwards): The Ute tribe, who are the most recent indigenous group to leave their mark, contributed artwork that often includes equestrian figures, hunting scenes, and depictions of warfare or encounters with Europeans. Their petroglyphs reflect a later period of interaction and adaptation to changing environments and technologies.
Despite ongoing preservation and restoration efforts, a regrettable amount of graffiti and damage mars some of these priceless ancient artworks. Visitors are strongly urged to respect these irreplaceable historical sites and help protect them for future generations.
The Ghost Town of Sego: A Coal Mining Saga
Beyond the ancient art, further north on Sego Canyon Road, lies the eerie and evocative ghost town of Sego. Once a vibrant coal mining camp, its silent ruins now tell a dramatic story of ambition, struggle, and eventual abandonment.
From Ballard’s Discovery to American Fuel Company
The origins of Sego trace back to the early 1890s when Harry Ballard, a prosperous farmer and rancher, secretly discovered coal on his land. He quietly acquired adjacent properties and commenced small-scale coal operations, giving rise to a small community initially known as Ballard. Coal was laboriously dug by hand and transported by wagons down the narrow canyon.
Word of the high-quality coal reached Salt Lake City, catching the attention of B.F. Bauer, a hardware store owner. Bauer eventually bought out Ballard’s holdings, establishing the American Fuel Company and boldly selling stock valued at $1 million, signaling grand plans for the canyon’s coal reserves.
By 1911, the American Fuel Company was committed to extensive development. They constructed essential infrastructure, including the American Fuel Company Store, a substantial boarding house, various mining buildings, the first coal washer west of the Mississippi River, and a coal tipple. The settlement was then renamed Neslin, in honor of the company’s general manager, Richard Neslin.
Challenges, Renaming, and Financial Strain
In 1914, the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad completed a five-mile spur line from Thompson to the coal camp, a route that remarkably crossed the stream 13 times. Almost immediately, the camp faced persistent water supply issues, frequently hindering the operation of the coal washer. The railroad spur itself proved problematic, with trains often derailing.
By 1916, investor B.F. Bauer, dissatisfied with meager profits, fired Richard Neslin. The town underwent another name change, this time becoming Sego, after Utah’s state flower. The mine’s operations were subsequently managed under the name Chesterfield Company.
Financial difficulties continued to plague the enterprise. The company initially generated its own power, leading to frequent breakdowns. In 1927, they invested over $100,000 to secure electricity from Columbia, Utah, more than 100 miles away, further straining their finances. There were periods when the company couldn’t meet payroll, forcing them to pay miners in company scrip, redeemable only at the company store.
Unionization, Persistence, and the Final Blow
The worsening financial conditions prompted the miners to reorganize under the United Mine Workers Union in 1933, which helped secure regular wages. At its peak, the mine employed around 125 miners, supporting a community of approximately 500 residents.
In 1947, the company’s struggles culminated in the mine’s closure and its property being offered at a Sheriff’s auction. Devastated, the 27 remaining miners, many of whom had worked there for decades, pooled their resources. They successfully purchased the equipment and property for $30,010, renaming their operation the Utah Grand Coal Company and resuming mining.
Tragedy struck in 1949 when a fire destroyed the tipple, severely impacting production. In the same year, the railroad ceased operations to Sego, forcing the new company to invest in dump trucks, loading ramps, and a new tipple. Despite these setbacks, the employee-owned company persevered and recovered.
However, an unforeseen technological shift delivered the ultimate blow. In the early 1950s, railroads transitioned to diesel engines, significantly diminishing the demand for coal. By 1955, the Utah Grand Coal Company sold all its holdings for $25,000 to a Texas-based company more interested in the 700 acres for potential oil and natural gas reserves than for coal. Many buildings were then relocated to Moab, and Sego officially became a ghost town.
A Tragic Loss: The Destruction of 1973
For several decades, many homes and buildings still stood in the canyon, albeit in various states of disrepair. Sadly, in the spring of 1973, a devastating act of human greed further ravaged the site. Two carloads of treasure hunters were observed using metal detectors in the old town. Later that day, many of the remaining structures lay in smoldering ruins, as the “treasure hunters” sifted through the cooling ashes. This senseless destruction irrevocably erased much of the camp’s tangible history, leaving a permanent scar on this historic site.
Visiting Sego Canyon Today: Remnants of the Past
Today, Sego Canyon continues to display numerous compelling signs of its prosperous, albeit troubled, past. The sturdy stone walls of the old American Fuel Company Store still stand sentinel, though its windows and roof have long since succumbed to time and elements. Nearby, the remnants of another stone building can be found, alongside the crumbled, two-story wooden structure of what was once the “American” boarding house. (Note: As of 2011, this building had completely collapsed, reducing it to a pile of wood).
Throughout the canyon, visitors can discover a scattering of other crumbling structures, silent mine shafts, foundational remains, and the skeletal frames of the old railroad bridges that once spanned the creek. The old cemetery offers an overgrown, poignant glimpse into the lives and deaths of Sego‘s former residents, marked by a few legible headstones amidst many unmarked graves.
Travel Advisory for Sego Canyon
The drive into Sego Canyon requires a high-clearance vehicle. It is critically important to avoid attempting this journey if storms are anticipated, as flash floods are a common and dangerous occurrence. During or after recent rains, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is highly recommended to navigate the potentially rocky and muddy roads safely.
To reach Sego Canyon, take Exit 187 from I-70, approximately 25 miles east of Green River, Utah. Drive north on the main road through the town of Thompson Springs. The impressive rock art sites are located about 3.5 miles north. Continuing another half-mile beyond the rock art, the road forks. The left fork leads into Thompson Canyon, while the right fork directs you towards the old Sego Cemetery. The main ghost town site of Sego is situated approximately one mile north of the cemetery.
We implore all visitors to show the utmost respect for the town of Sego, its structures, and the ancient Native American rock art. All these sites are on private property. Your careful and respectful visitation will ensure that these invaluable historical remains can be appreciated by generations to come.
