Nestled high in the majestic San Juan Mountains, Creede, Colorado, stands as a captivating testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. This remote yet vibrant town, with its rich mining heritage and breathtaking scenic beauty, offers an unforgettable journey into history and adventure, truly making Creede, Colorado a jewel of the Rockies.
Long before silver sparked a rush, the Upper Rio Grande Valley played a significant role in the lives of indigenous peoples, including the Ute tribe. These nomadic groups traversed the San Juan Mountains seasonally, moving between high country in summer and valleys in winter. The hot springs at what is now known as Wagon Wheel Gap, a short distance downriver from Creede’s future site, served as another important attraction. By the 1840s, settlers began farming in the area, gradually curtailing Native migrations as troops from Fort Garland eventually forced them onto reservations. The 1870s saw further settlement driven by stage stations connecting mining camps with the East, alongside a growing interest in tourism fueled by captivating books about the American West. The arrival of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad in 1883 brought tourists directly to Wagon Wheel Gap, transforming the hot springs into a popular destination for those seeking healing waters.
Nicholas C. Creede and the Silver Discovery that Ignited a Boom
In 1889, the course of this tranquil valley changed dramatically. Nicholas C. Creede, a seasoned prospector and former soldier, discovered his fortune in Willow Creek Canyon. While he had previously unearthed rich mineral veins, including the Monarch in Chaffee County and the Bonanza, he lacked the capital and expertise to develop them, selling his claims to fund further prospecting and broaden his knowledge. His discovery of the Holy Moses, a high-grade silver vein along a Rio Grande tributary, sparked an unprecedented rush. Within just two years, by 1891, the population of the surrounding mining camps exploded from 600 to over 10,000.
Creede’s success caught the attention of David Moffat, one of Denver’s most influential financiers. In June 1891, convinced by the immense potential of the Holy Moses mine, Moffat and his consortium leased the mine from Creede. They entered an agreement to fund his prospecting, granting him a one-third share of all future finds and a monthly stipend. This partnership proved incredibly fruitful for Creede, who soon after discovered a rich Amethyst vein, leading to the establishment of several significant mines including the Bachelor, Annie Rooney, Sunnyside, and the Commodore. It is estimated that in 1892 alone, the Amethyst vein generated up to $1,000 a day for Nicholas Creede.
The Wild West: Boomtown Life and Infamous Characters
The original townsite, which would become Creede, was situated on East Willow Creek. After the discovery of the Holy Moses, the entire area encompassing East Willow, Stringtown, Jimtown, and Amethyst was consolidated and renamed Creede in honor of Nicholas. Railroad tycoon William Palmer extended the rail line from Wagon Wheel Gap into Willow Creek Canyon in 1891, establishing a crucial link that saw two trains arriving and departing daily. By 1892, this railway was shipping over a million dollars in silver down-valley.
The boom era also attracted a colorful, and often dangerous, array of individuals. With Denver undergoing a reform movement against drinking and gambling, many infamous figures gravitated to Creede. Soapy Smith, the notorious confidence man, soon became the uncrowned king of Creede’s criminal underworld. Other well-known personalities included lawman Bat Masterson, William Sidney “Cap” Light (the first deputy sheriff and Smith’s brother-in-law), and the infamous Robert Ford, known for killing Jesse James a decade earlier in Missouri.
Ford opened his Ford’s Exchange Dance Hall on May 29, 1892. However, disaster struck just days later when a massive fire ravaged most of Creede’s business district, including Ford’s establishment. Undeterred, he quickly erected a makeshift tent saloon. Tragically, he would lose his life the very next day when Edward O’Kelley entered the tent and shot him with a sawed-off shotgun. While some historians speculate about Soapy Smith’s involvement, this has never been proven. Ford was initially buried in Creede, though his body was later exhumed and reinterred in his hometown of Richmond, Missouri. A marker at his original gravesite in Creede still commemorates his tumultuous presence.
Resilience and Transformation: Creede Endures
Despite the fire, Creede was officially incorporated on June 13, 1892. As political tides turned in Denver, some businessmen began relocating back to their original operations. The peak of the mining boom ended abruptly with the Silver Panic of 1893, which forced the closure of most mines. However, unlike many other boomtowns that became ghost towns, Creede demonstrated remarkable resilience. It successfully adapted by increasingly relying on lead and zinc mining. Prospectors and families from abandoned nearby camps began to settle in Creede, which by then had even installed its own electric system, a testament to its forward-thinking spirit.
Tensions also escalated between the town and the nearby Wason Ranch over the location of the county seat. M.V.B. Wason believed his ranch, with its strategic location and safety from flash floods, was better suited. The state initially agreed, naming Wason the county seat on March 27, 1893. Disagreeing vehemently, citizens in Creede voted their town as the seat that November. When Wason attempted to delay the move on technical grounds, residents of Creede took matters into their own hands, raiding Wason and confiscating all essential town records and docket books.
Mining experienced a slight resurgence in the early 1900s, and despite market fluctuations, hard rock mining remained Creede’s primary economic driver. Total production through 1966 was impressive, including 58 million troy ounces of silver, 2 million metric tons of copper, 150,000 ounces of gold, 112,000 metric tons of lead, and 34 metric tons of zinc. Mining operations continued until 1985, when the last mine, the Homestake, permanently closed, marking the end of an era.
Creede Today: A Haven for Arts, Culture, and Outdoor Adventure
With its mining days behind it, Creede has successfully returned to its tourism roots. City and County leaders spearheaded efforts to preserve historic buildings and promote the area’s rich mining history and stunning scenic views. The establishment of the Creede Historical Society in 1976 marked a pivotal step in this direction. Throughout the 1980s, the town underwent a significant transformation, evolving into a vibrant arts community boasting numerous galleries, theaters, and a diverse range of cultural events.
The Rio Grande Headwaters Land Trust, founded in 1992, works diligently to protect and conserve the region’s land, water, and wildlife resources. Creede’s prime location by the headwaters of the fourth-longest river in North America offers exceptional outdoor opportunities. Visitors can enjoy rafting and kayaking at various difficulty levels, catering to everyone from beginners to experienced adventurers. The area is also renowned for its excellent trout fishing, with the Rio Grande and its tributary streams providing prime opportunities for fly fishermen. Hiking is another extremely popular activity, with countless trails offering breathtaking vistas.
Exploring History on the Bachelor Loop Historic Driving Tour
For history enthusiasts, a journey on the Bachelor Loop Historic Driving Tour is an absolute highlight of any Creede adventure. This seventeen-mile route winds through the historic mining district above Creede, offering immersive experiences amidst mining remnants and abandoned camps. Along the tour, visitors can explore the Last Chance Mine and visit the Creede Underground Mining Museum & Community Center, conveniently located adjacent to the loop at the north end of town.
The loop features 14 interpretive pullouts that vividly recount the history of the mining operations and the abandoned camps, including Bachelor. It’s important to note that the eastern part of the loop is designated for four-wheel drive vehicles due to its steep terrain. However, the western section is much easier, and traveling this way allows visitors to bypass the rougher climbs by descending the mountains if necessary.
Towards the north end of the loop, just north of Bachelor on the west side of the route, lies the Last Chance Mine & Museum. This site, which would otherwise be a pile of ruins, has been painstakingly restored over decades by Jack Morris. He has rebuilt mining buildings, reopened the shaft for tours, and established a couple of museums on the property. A stop here to speak with Jack and delve into the history is truly worthwhile. He is even featured in a PBS documentary on Creede, discussing the history of the Last Chance Mine.
In addition to the 14 interpretive mining pullouts, stops 15 & 16 on the Bachelor Loop lead visitors to the Creede Cemetery and the original gravesite of Robert Ford, located just above Creede. These historical markers offer a poignant connection to the town’s storied past and the figures who shaped its dramatic early years.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Creede
From its humble beginnings as a Ute tribal hunting ground to its meteoric rise as a silver boomtown and its graceful evolution into a vibrant arts and outdoor recreation hub, Creede, Colorado, embodies the quintessential American frontier spirit. Its rich tapestry of history, woven with tales of prospectors, lawmen, outlaws, and resilient communities, combined with its stunning natural beauty and thriving cultural scene, ensures that Creede remains an unforgettable destination. Whether you’re drawn by the echoes of a storied past or the allure of mountain adventures, Creede promises an experience that truly captures the heart of the Rocky Mountains.
