The Nez Perce National Historic Trail commemorates a harrowing chapter in American history. This 1,170-mile route traces the desperate 1877 flight of the Nez Perce tribe, known as the Nimíipuu or Nee-Me-Poo, as they sought to escape forced relocation by the U.S. Cavalry and reach sanctuary in Canada. Managed by the U.S. Forest Service since its creation in 1986, the Nez Perce National Historic Trail spans four states—Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana—connecting 38 significant sites from Wallowa Lake, Oregon, to the Bear Paw Battlefield near Chinook, Montana. It stands as a powerful testament to the tribe’s resilience and sacrifice.
“This is where we were born and raised… It is our native country. It is impossible for us to leave.” – Ollokot (Frog)
The Nez Perce: A Legacy of Friendship and Homeland
For centuries, the Nez Perce people thrived in their vast ancestral lands, a rich tapestry of rivers, mountains, prairies, and valleys across present-day southeastern Washington, northeastern Oregon, and north-central Idaho, with traditional hunting grounds extending into Montana and Wyoming. Their reputation for friendship was well-established, notably aiding the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1805.
However, the influx of American settlers following the 1846 resolution of the Oregon country dispute and the subsequent creation of Oregon Territory (1848) and Washington Territory (1853) initiated a period of intense treaty negotiations. In 1855, Washington Territorial Governor Isaac Ingalls Stevens convened a council with Nez Perce leaders, resulting in the Treaty of Walla Walla. Under this agreement, the Nez Perce ceded 7.5 million acres but retained a guaranteed 5,000 square-mile reservation in Idaho, Washington, and Oregon, preserving their traditional hunting and fishing rights. This treaty, ratified by the U.S. Senate in 1859, was intended to be in perpetuity.
The Impact of Gold and the Controversial 1863 Treaty
The fragile peace shattered in 1860 with the discovery of gold in Idaho. A torrent of prospectors, merchants, and settlers swiftly overran Nez Perce lands, seizing resources and committing injustices against tribal members. In response to these escalating conflicts, the federal government initiated new treaty talks in 1863, aiming to drastically shrink the reservation to approximately one-tenth of its original size, critically including the beloved Wallowa region of northeastern Oregon and the Payette Lake region.
Many Nez Perce chiefs vehemently refused to sign, departing the council in anger. Yet, amidst immense pressure and deceptive promises, some remaining chiefs reluctantly agreed to a reservation 90 percent smaller than that established by the 1855 treaty. This document, known by many Nez Perce as the “Thief Treaty,” was signed without the consent or authority of all tribal leaders who claimed rights to the ceded lands. The federal government then arbitrarily categorized those who signed as “treaty” Nez Perce and those who did not as “non-treaty.” The 1863 Treaty was ratified by Congress in 1867, setting the stage for inevitable conflict.
The Road to Conflict: Forced Relocation and Retaliation
For several years, the non-treaty Nez Perce continued to occupy their traditional homelands, particularly in the Wallowa region, which was home to Chief Joseph and his band. As settler encroachment intensified, so did the friction, leading to increasing calls for the Nez Perce to be moved to the drastically reduced 1863 reservation in Idaho. By 1877, the U.S. Army received explicit orders to enforce this relocation.
In May 1877, General Oliver Otis Howard met with the non-treaty Nez Perce chiefs at Fort Lapwai, Idaho. Howard issued an ultimatum, ordering them to gather their families and livestock and relocate to Lapwai within 30 days, threatening military force if they failed to comply. The chiefs pleaded for an extension, arguing the time was insufficient for such a monumental task, but Howard coldly refused. This high-handed treatment, coupled with years of injustices and the looming loss of their ancestral lands, ignited a desperate fury among some young warriors. Riding from their camp at Tolo Lake, Idaho, they sought vengeance for past wrongs, resulting in the tragic killings of several white settlers.
The Epic Flight of 1877: The Nez Perce War Begins
With any hope of a peaceful relocation shattered, the Nez Perce chiefs, including Chief Joseph, Looking Glass, White Bird, Ollokot, and Lean Elk, made the heartbreaking decision to flee to Canada, believing it offered their last chance for peace and freedom. The extraordinary journey began on June 15, 1877. Approximately 800 men, women, and children embarked on a desperate trek northeast, seeking refuge with their Crow allies. Crucially, only about 250 of these were warriors; the majority were vulnerable women, children, the elderly, and the sick.
Just two days later, on June 17, U.S. Army and volunteer soldiers encountered a Nez Perce camp on White Bird Creek in western Idaho. A party of six warriors approached the soldiers under a flag of truce, but a volunteer fired upon them, tragically precipitating the official start of the Nez Perce War of 1877. After decisively defeating the cavalry at the Battle of White Bird Canyon, the Nez Perce continued their arduous flight, engaging in more than a dozen additional battles and skirmishes over the next several months. Despite their tactical brilliance and resilience, the relentless pursuit by the U.S. Army took a severe toll, diminishing their numbers.
The Bear Paw Siege and Chief Joseph’s Poignant Surrender
The journey, marked by incredible endurance and tactical genius, came to a devastating halt just 40 miles from the Canadian border. Trapped at Snake Creek, at the base of the Bear Paw Mountains in Montana, the greatly reduced Nez Perce were surrounded by the U.S. Army. After a grueling five-day siege and battle, the remaining 431 members of the tribe were utterly exhausted and outmatched. On October 5, 1877, Chief Joseph delivered one of the most famous and heartbreaking speeches in American history, surrendering his people:
“I am tired of fighting. Our chiefs are killed. Looking Glass is dead. Toohulhulsote is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men who say yes or no. He who led the young men is dead.
It is cold, and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills and have no blankets, no food. No one knows where they are–perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead.
Hear me, my chiefs. I am tired. My heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.”
Following the surrender, approximately 200-300 Nez Perce individuals managed to evade the army and successfully cross into Canada. However, the majority of the survivors were tragically sent to Indian Territory in present-day Oklahoma, a far cry from their ancestral homelands. Today, the descendants of the non-treaty bands live within three recognized groups: the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation in Washington, the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation in Oregon, and the Nez Perce Tribe in Idaho.
Even General William Tecumseh Sherman recognized the extraordinary nature of their flight, calling the Nez Perce saga “the most extraordinary of Indian wars.”
Tracing History: The Nez Perce (Nee-Me-Poo) National Historic Trail
Today, the historic route of the Nez Perce’s 1877 flight is officially recognized as the Nez Perce (Nee-Me-Poo) National Historic Trail by an act of Congress. Through dedicated cooperation with State Highway Departments and County Commissioners across Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana, over 1500 miles of federal, state, and county roads have been designated as the Nez Perce National Historic Trail Auto Route. This auto route allows visitors to roughly parallel the challenging course traveled by the Nez Perce bands during their harrowing and historic journey.
The trail commences at Wallowa Lake, Oregon, proceeds northeast, and crosses the Snake River at Dug Bar. It then enters Idaho at Lewiston, traversing north-central Idaho before entering Montana near Lolo Pass. From there, it winds through the Bitterroot Valley, re-entering Idaho at Bannock Pass, and then travels east back into Montana at Targhee Pass to cross the Continental Divide. The trail bisects the stunning landscapes of Yellowstone National Park and subsequently follows the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River out of Wyoming and back into Montana. Its ultimate destination is the Bear’s Paw Mountains, concluding approximately 40 miles south of the Canadian border near Chinook, Montana.
A poignant reflection on the trail’s significance comes from Frank B. Andrews, a Nez Perce descendant: “We, the surviving Nez Perces, want to leave our hearts, memories, and hallowed presence as a never-ending revelation to the story of the event of 1877. This trail will live in our hearts. We want to thank all who visit this sacred trail that will share our innermost feelings. Because their journey makes this an important time for the present, past, and future.”
Conclusion: Remembering a Profound Journey
The Nez Perce National Historic Trail serves as far more than just a pathway across the land; it is a vital, living memorial to the courage, suffering, and enduring spirit of the Nez Perce people. It educates visitors about a complex and often tragic period of American history, reminding us of the profound impact of westward expansion on Indigenous communities and the devastating consequences of broken treaties. As visitors traverse this historic route, they connect directly with the past, gaining a deeper understanding of the struggles and the unwavering determination of the Nez Perce to protect their homeland and way of life. The trail stands as a permanent tribute, ensuring that the remarkable journey of 1877, and the stories of those who walked it, will never be forgotten.
