The journey along the Oatman Highway south of Kingman, Arizona, is not merely a drive; it is an immersive historical experience through a legendary stretch of Route 66. This iconic roadway, often simply referred to as the Oatman Highway, carves its way through the rugged Black Mountains, offering travelers a glimpse into America’s motoring past. From forgotten roadside havens to breathtaking mountain passes, every mile on this historic byway tells a story of perseverance, innovation, and the enduring spirit of the Mother Road. As you leave Kingman, the landscape transitions from sparse desert to rising elevations, signaling the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.
Cool Springs Camp: A Phoenix from the Ashes of Route 66
One of the first significant stops along the Oatman Highway is the meticulously restored Cool Springs Camp. Gleaming brightly against the desert backdrop today, it’s difficult to imagine that this vibrant outpost was once a forgotten ruin. Established in 1926, Cool Springs served as a vital amenity for early Route 66 travelers, offering a café, a Mobil Oil Station, and much-needed respite before the daunting ascent of the Goldroad grade. It was the last chance for motorists to check their vehicles’ oil, water, and gas, and grab a satisfying meal before tackling the treacherous mountain pass ahead.
In the 1930s, James Walker and his family took the reins, enhancing the station and adding eight quaint tourist cabins, cementing Cool Springs’ reputation as a welcoming haven. After a family transition, Mrs. Walker and her children continued to operate the camp, later joined by her new husband, Floyd Spidell. Following World War II, as travel boomed, Cool Springs became legendary for its delicious chicken dinners, drawing travelers from across the nation heading towards the promise of California. However, the golden era was not to last forever. The construction of the Yucca Bypass in the early 1950s dramatically diverted traffic away from this historic alignment, leading to the decline of both Cool Springs and the nearby town of Oatman, effectively turning them into ghost towns.
Despite dwindling visitors, Floyd Spidell and his niece, Nancy Schoenherr, along with her husband Chuck, valiantly kept the camp running until 1966. Tragically, in that same year, the entire camp was engulfed in flames, reduced to mere stone foundations. For decades, the site remained desolate and neglected, even serving as a brief set for the movie “Universal Soldier” in 1991, only to be promptly exploded for the film’s dramatic effect. The future of Cool Springs seemed bleak until 2001 when Ned and Michelle Leuchtner purchased the property. With immense dedication, and the skilled craftsmanship of builder Dennis DeChenne, Ned meticulously restored the Cool Springs Camp station to its former glory by 2004, relying on historical photographs. Today, Cool Springs welcomes a new generation of Route 66 enthusiasts, featuring a charming gift shop and museum, making it an essential stop for photographs, a refreshing soda, and a dive into history.
Ed’s Camp: A Quirky Relic of Roadside Ingenuity
Just a mile further down the road from Cool Springs, travelers encounter the poignant remains of Ed’s Camp, a site that, unlike its revitalized counterpart, has succumbed to the ravages of time. This unique roadside stop was founded by Ed Edgerton, a miner who arrived in the area in 1917. When Route 66 began to bring a steady stream of traffic through the region, Ed, with a characteristic independent spirit, decided to build a trading post. Instead of completing a traditional enclosed structure, he famously declared, “The hell with the building; we will leave it open,” and simply put a roof over the foundation. Thus, Ed’s open-air trading post was born, quickly becoming a memorable stop for travelers.
Over time, Ed’s Camp expanded to include the Kactus Kafe, a gas station, and several cabins, providing comprehensive services for weary travelers. Today, however, the once-bustling camp stands as a lonely, abandoned testament to a bygone era. The property is strewn with iron bed frames, weathered rocks, old tires, railroad ties, and various other debris, offering a stark contrast to its former vitality. Despite its dilapidated state, the area remains private property, with prominent “no trespassing” signs. Across the historic Route 66 from the camp, visitors can still discern the large white letters spelling “ED’S CAMP” etched into the rocky hillside, a final, fading beacon of Ed Edgerton’s unconventional legacy.
Conquering Sitgreaves Pass: The Challenge of the Black Mountains
Beyond Ed’s Camp, the Oatman Highway truly begins to earn its legendary reputation as the road narrows and intensifies its ascent into Sitgreaves Pass. This formidable pass, rising to an elevation of 3,550 feet, dramatically weaves through the rugged terrain of the Black Mountains. The pass bears the name of Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves, who, in 1851, led a pioneering American scientific and military expedition. His mission was to explore and map the Zuni River, the Little Colorado River, and the mighty Colorado River, traversing west across Arizona and south to Fort Yuma in California. The expedition’s primary objective was to determine the navigability of these crucial waterways for river steamers.
The climb towards Sitgreaves Pass is renowned for its challenging conditions. The narrow road features numerous hairpin turns, clinging precariously to the mountainside with minimal shoulders and very few guardrails. In the nascent days of Route 66, when automobiles possessed limited power, ascending this steep 3,550-foot grade presented a significant hurdle. Many early drivers, particularly those with gravity-fed fuel systems, ingeniously navigated the incline by driving backward, as reverse gear provided superior torque and a more reliable fuel flow. For those less daring, or whose vehicles simply couldn’t make the climb, various services sprang up to assist. Travelers could hire a team of horses to pull their Model Ts to the summit, or engage the services of local wreckers who specialized in hauling stranded motorists over the pass, no doubt turning a tidy profit. Some “flatlanders,” intimidated by the steepness and winding nature of the road, would even pay a local to drive their car over the summit for them, highlighting the formidable reputation of this section of the Mother Road.
Upon reaching the summit, a convenient pull-off offers a spectacular panoramic view of the vast, surrounding Arizona landscape. From this vantage point, visitors can observe remnants of old mining operations, including the still-active Gold Road operation, before the road begins its descent towards the historic town of Oatman. Oatman itself, with its vibrant Old West charm and resident burros, promises a fun-filled culmination to a truly memorable journey along this preserved segment of old Route 66.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Oatman Highway
The Oatman Highway stands as a powerful testament to the allure and historical significance of Route 66. From the painstaking restoration of Cool Springs Camp, a beacon of perseverance, to the poignant, untouched remnants of Ed’s Camp, and the challenging yet rewarding ascent of Sitgreaves Pass, this Arizona byway offers an unparalleled journey into the past. It’s a route where history comes alive, where the pioneering spirit of early travelers and entrepreneurs is palpable. A drive along this scenic and historic stretch is more than just a trip; it’s an exploration of American heritage, inviting every traveler to experience the enduring magic of the Mother Road and discover the unique stories woven into the fabric of the Black Mountains.
