Nestled within the vast expanse of the Kiowa National Grassland, about 12 miles north of Roy, New Mexico, lies the quiet, yet historically rich, settlement of Mills, New Mexico. Once a vibrant hub of activity, today only a few structures stand as testament to its storied past, a poignant reminder of the American West’s fluctuating fortunes. Despite its diminished physical presence, the enduring spirit and compelling history of Mills continue to captivate those who journey through this remote part of Harding County.
The roots of Mills, New Mexico, trace back to 1898, when an ambitious homesteader named Melvin W. Mills established the first iteration of the community. A man of formidable talent and drive, Melvin W. Mills cultivated crops in the fertile grounds of Mills Canyon, along the Canadian River. His endeavors quickly expanded, transforming him into a successful rancher, farmer, attorney, and eventually a respected state Senator, Judge, and Governor. Mills was instrumental in transporting fresh produce to neighboring towns like Springer and Wagon Mound, thanks in part to his extensive orchards. His early life also saw him embroiled in the infamous “Colfax County War” of the 1870s, where he notably crossed paths with the notorious gunfighter, Clay Allison, adding a touch of frontier drama to his already remarkable biography.
The Railroad’s Arrival and Mills’ Flourishing Era
The town’s true boom commenced with the arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which laid its tracks from Dawson to Tucumcari, establishing a crucial depot in Mills in 1889. This railway connection breathed new life into the budding settlement, transforming it into a vital transportation and trade center. The same year, a post office was established, with local hotelier Henry Lebert famously meeting the incoming trains to collect and distribute mail, connecting the remote community to the wider world. However, prosperity was briefly interrupted when a devastating flood swept through the town in 1904, nearly wiping it off the map.
Undaunted by the setback, local landowners Cress and Pelphey generously provided 40 acres for a new townsite, signaling a collective determination to rebuild. Their efforts were significantly bolstered by the Wilson Company of New York, which made substantial investments, erecting a general store, a towering grain elevator, a bean house, a lumberyard, a new hotel, extensive stockyards, and homes for their employees. This influx of capital and development rapidly propelled Mills into a period of remarkable growth.
By 1913, the revived town of Mills had blossomed into a bustling community, boasting an impressive array of amenities. It featured five hotels, a lively theatre, a dance hall, the services of four doctors, a hospital, a barbershop, three general stores, a bank, two saloons, three churches, a school, and a boarding house, among other establishments. The community swelled to a peak population of 3,000 residents, a testament to its economic vitality and strategic importance in Harding County. Even after the original school tragically burned down in the early 1920s, a new one was promptly constructed next to the prominent grain elevators, emphasizing the town’s commitment to education and continuity.
Decline, Resilience, and a Sporting Legend
Despite its impressive growth, Mills was not immune to the broader national hardships that would eventually lead to its decline. The catastrophic impact of the Great Depression and the environmental devastation of the Dust Bowl severely crippled the region’s agricultural economy. Compounding these challenges, the eventual closure of the railway dealt a final, irrecoverable blow, isolating Mills from the arteries of commerce and communication that had once sustained it. Residents began to leave in search of better opportunities, and the vibrant town slowly began to empty.
Even as its population dwindled, Mills demonstrated remarkable resilience and spirit. In 1940, the small community garnered statewide recognition for its exceptional basketball team, the Mills Bobcats, who achieved an undefeated season. This local triumph, however, ended in a bittersweet quarterfinal loss when an overconfident coach benched the first string, leading to a one-point defeat. The town’s school eventually closed its doors in the early 1940s, and the imposing two-story brick high school, a symbol of its former ambition, was ultimately torn down in the early 1980s.
Remarkably, the Mills Post Office, which moved into the old bank building in 1944, remains open and active to this day, serving the few remaining residents and representing a tangible link to the town’s storied past. It stands as a silent sentinel, a testament to the enduring, albeit diminished, presence of Mills.
The Legends of Mills Canyon
Beyond the town itself, the nearby Mills Canyon holds a rich and often dramatic history. For centuries, it served as a vital stagecoach stop on the arduous journey from Kansas to Santa Fe, becoming a nexus for travelers, traders, and sometimes, outlaws. Tales of high-stakes gambling, Eastern girls held hostage, and fierce encounters persist within the local lore. The canyon also played a significant role in the history of Native American tribes, with accounts of Indigenous groups utilizing its rugged terrain to launch raids on wagon trains, swiftly retreating into its natural defenses. Today, the Mills Canyon Recreation Area offers a tranquil escape, providing opportunities for fishing, hunting, and hiking along the picturesque Canadian River, inviting visitors to connect with both nature and history.
Conclusion: An Enduring Echo in the Grassland
The journey of Mills, New Mexico, from a pioneering settlement to a thriving railroad town, and ultimately to a quiet collection of historical remnants, mirrors the broader narrative of many communities in the American West. It is a story of ambition, resilience, prosperity, and the inevitable ebb and flow of fortune. Though the bustling streets and vibrant community of its heyday are long gone, the legacy of Melvin W. Mills and the town he founded continues to resonate. Mills stands as a powerful symbol of frontier life, a reminder of the human spirit’s ability to build, rebuild, and endure, even when faced with overwhelming challenges. Visitors today can still sense the echoes of its past, making Mills, New Mexico, a compelling destination for those seeking to understand the deep historical tapestry of the Southwest.
