Nestled in the breathtaking Alaskan wilderness, Skagway, Alaska, stands as a living testament to one of history’s most epic human endeavors: the Klondike Gold Rush. This remote town, once a chaotic gateway for thousands of fortune-seekers, has preserved its wild past, offering visitors a unique journey back to the late 19th century. From its humble beginnings to its boomtown glory and eventual transformation, Skagway, Alaska, continues to captivate with tales of ambition, struggle, and indelible characters.
The story of Skagway began not with gold, but with the prescience of one man. William “Billy” Moore, a former steamboat captain, ventured north from British Columbia, Canada, ahead of the frenzy. While working as a surveyor, Moore discovered the promising White Pass route through the formidable Coast Range. He envisioned a strategic town at the saltwater end of this route, precisely where the Skagway River emptied into the Lynn Canal.
The Genesis of Skagway: William Moore’s Vision
In 1887, Moore took action, filing a 160-acre homestead claim at the head of what would become the White Pass Trail. Alongside his son, Ben, he meticulously built a cabin, a wharf, and a sawmill, laying the groundwork for a settlement he was convinced would one day thrive. They even undertook preliminary work on the White Pass Trail itself, patiently awaiting the gold rush Moore so confidently predicted. The town they founded was named Skagway, derived from the Tlingit Indian word “Skagua,” meaning “the place where the north wind blows.”
Moore’s foresight proved uncanny. In August 1896, the momentous discovery of gold in the distant Klondike region ignited a stampede. By the summer of 1897, the first wave of prospectors landed at Skagway. Despite his foundational efforts, Captain Moore and his son were cruelly pushed aside by the overwhelming influx of newcomers. These stampeders brazenly encroached upon the Moore homestead and its surrounding lands, hastily laying out a townsite without any consultation. Adding insult to injury, William Moore was compelled to relocate his cabin, as it obstructed a newly plotted street. Yet, William Moore, though ignored and humiliated, refused to yield. Instead, he channeled his resolve into extending his wharf, enhancing its capacity to serve the ever-increasing number of arriving ships. This improved wharf not only generated vital revenue but also contributed significantly to the town’s nascent growth, even as much of the initial traffic diverted to the rival town of Dyea and the treacherous Chilkoot Pass. While Skagway primarily served as a transit point for most, resilient merchants like Captain James Carroll established thriving enterprises, and government officers such as customs collector C.L. Andrews became permanent residents.
The Klondike Gold Rush Erupts in Skagway
Throughout the autumn and winter of 1897, steamships relentlessly discharged their human and material cargo into Skagway: gold-seekers, cattle, horses, tools, provisions, and, inevitably, villains. The town experienced explosive growth, its population surging to a peak of approximately 10,000. Stampeders swarmed the area, desperately attempting to acquire the mandated year’s worth of gear and supplies before tackling the arduous journey over the Coast Range and down the Yukon River headwaters at Lakes Lindeman and Bennett. In October 1897, a Northwest Mounted Police Report vividly described Skagway as having “grown from a concourse of tents to a fair-sized town with well-laid-out streets and numerous frame buildings, stores, saloons, gambling houses, dance houses, and a population of about 20,000.” By February 1898, Customs Office records indicated that an additional 5,000 stampeders had disembarked in that single month alone.
Amidst this pandemonium, many prospectors quickly grasped the immense challenges of the trek to the goldfields and chose instead to remain in town, providing essential goods and services to those who pressed on. Within mere weeks, stores, saloons, and offices sprang up along Skagway’s muddy streets. The population stabilized at an estimated 8,000 residents during the spring of 1898, with around 1,000 prospective miners flowing through weekly. By June 1898, with a population fluctuating between 8,000 and 10,000, Skagway, Alaska, had earned the distinction of being the largest city in the territory. Among those who chose to put down roots was Harriet Pullen. Having struggled to make a living on a marginal Washington state farm with her four children, she joined the Gold Rush in 1897, arriving in Skagway with a mere $7. Her legendary apple pies, baked in a tent, soon became a cherished delight for the men constructing Billy Moore’s wharf, allowing her to upgrade to a log cabin. For a time, she operated a pack train over White Pass using horses brought from her Washington farm. Eventually, she became Skagway’s most celebrated hostess, purchasing a substantial house from William Moore and transforming it into the renowned Pullen House, the finest hotel in town.
Lawlessness and the Reign of Soapy Smith
Among the many arrivals was Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith, a notorious gambler, con artist, and bully from Colorado, who brazenly declared his intention to rule Skagway, Alaska. By corrupting the U.S. Deputy Marshal, Skagway’s sole law enforcer, and adopting a veneer of civic-mindedness, Smith and his gang quickly seized control of the fledgling town. He established Jeff Smith’s Parlor, a saloon and gambling den, strategically placing his men along the trail to lure unsuspecting prospectors into his establishment. He wielded considerable influence over businesses and the rudimentary legal system, all while cunningly attempting to cultivate an image of benevolence towards animals, children, and widows.
Between 1897 and 1898, Skagway was a crucible of lawlessness, famously described by one member of the North-West Mounted Police as “little better than a hell on earth.” Fights, prostitutes, and the free flow of liquor were pervasive features of Skagway’s streets, with “Soapy” Smith doing little to curb the chaos he indirectly fostered. However, Smith’s unchecked power eventually led to his downfall. When his gang robbed a returning prospector named John Stewart, Stewart vociferously and publicly denounced the injustice. A fed-up Skagway population convened a vigilante meeting to finally oust Smith. Upon hearing of the gathering, Soapy, armed with a rifle, marched down to confront the town. In a dramatic showdown in July 1898, Frank Reid, the town’s surveyor, challenged Smith with a pistol. Both men fired; Soapy was killed instantly, but Reid, though delivering the fatal blow, succumbed to his wounds a few days later. Reid was hailed as a hero, but it is Soapy Smith whose exploits are more vividly remembered. Both Smith and Reid are interred at the Klondike Gold Rush Cemetery, locally known as “Skagway’s Boot Hill.”
The White Pass & Yukon Route: A Game Changer
Prior to the gold rush, the Chilkat branch of the Tlingit Indians held a tight grip on the Chilkoot Pass, effectively monopolizing all trade between white traders and the interior Indian tribes. They also possessed exclusive rights as packers for prospectors traversing the pass. However, as the stampede surged, a tense standoff quickly escalated between the Indians and the burgeoning white population, necessitating the intervention of the United States Navy to maintain peace. Soon, the Tlingit monopoly was broken, and their historical role largely disregarded.
Gold seekers predominantly utilized two main trails to reach the Yukon River headwaters. The 33-mile-long Chilkoot Trail originated in nearby Dyea and was notoriously steep, rendering it impassable for horses. In contrast, the 40-mile White Pass Trail began in Skagway. Thousands of men endured the grueling task of carrying their supplies up the Chilkoot Trail, or alternatively, braved the more gradual, yet often swampy, White Pass Trail to Lake Bennett. There, they constructed boats to navigate the 500-mile journey down the Yukon River to Dawson City and the coveted goldfields. The Chilkoot Pass, despite its difficulty, garnered more publicity and became the initially more popular route, primarily because the White Pass was infamous for its treacherous, boggy terrain. In the interim, both Skagway and its rival, Dyea, located about nine miles to the west, rapidly evolved from makeshift tent cities into established towns. Each boasted a growing array of commercial and civic amenities, including churches, schools, newspapers, and burgeoning government structures. For several years, these two ambitious towns fiercely vied for regional dominance.
By 1898, the strenuous overland routes began to see technological improvements. A 14-mile, steam-operated aerial tramway was ingeniously constructed on the Skagway side of the White Pass, significantly easing the burden for those who could afford its services. That same year, similar tramways also commenced operation on the steepest sections of the Chilkoot Trail, albeit still requiring immense effort from prospectors. However, a far more transformative development was on the horizon for Skagway, Alaska. In May 1898, the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad began laying narrow-gauge railroad tracks from Skagway. A dedicated railroad depot was swiftly constructed between September and December of that year. This ambitious railway project, meticulously paralleling the challenging White Pass Trail, was ultimately completed in 1900. The advent of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad irrevocably sealed the fate of nearby Dyea. Skagway now possessed both a deep-water port and a functioning railway, rendering Dyea obsolete. With the decline of the gold rush, only one primary town was necessary to service the diminishing traffic to the interior.
Skagway’s Evolution Post-Gold Rush and Modern Preservation
In a testament to its growing importance, construction on McCabe College began in Skagway in 1899 and was completed by 1900. It proudly became the first school in Alaska to offer a comprehensive college preparatory high school curriculum. In 1900, Skagway, Alaska, achieved another milestone, becoming the first incorporated city in the territory, boasting a population of 3,117. However, with the Klondike Gold Rush officially over, the population steadily declined, dropping to just 872 by 1910. The town might well have faded into a ghost town had it not been for the enduring presence of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad. This vital railway continued to provide essential freight, fuel, and transportation services to Whitehorse and several active mines in the Yukon, ensuring Skagway’s continued existence and relevance.
Much of Skagway’s rich history owes its preservation to dedicated early residents like Martin Itjen. Itjen, a pioneering tourism promoter, operated a popular tour bus around the historic town, sharing its fascinating stories. He was singularly responsible for saving and maintaining the Gold Rush Cemetery, preventing its complete loss to time and neglect. He also purchased Soapy Smith’s infamous saloon, Jeff Smith’s Parlor, safeguarding it from demolition. Itjen meticulously filled the parlor with countless artifacts chronicling the city’s early history, transforming it into Skagway’s first museum. Today, six blocks of downtown Skagway are proudly designated as a National Historic District, forming a crucial part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. The National Park Service manages more than 20 historic buildings within this district, along with several others just outside its boundaries. Four of these meticulously preserved buildings now function as museums, each offering a distinct window into various facets of gold rush life, from rowdy saloons to pioneer families and the dawn of tourism.
Iconic Historic Buildings of Skagway
- White Pass & Yukon Route Railway Depot and Administration Building Museum: These architecturally significant buildings served as the primary “home depot” for the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad until the 1950s. Today, they host the National Park’s visitor center, headquarters, and a comprehensive museum, offering insights into the railway’s vital role.
- The Martin Itjen House: Constructed in 1902, this was the former home of Martin Itjen, Skagway’s first dedicated tourism promoter. It now houses the Alaska Geographic bookstore, a partner museum, continuing Itjen’s legacy of sharing Alaskan heritage.
- Boas Tailor & Furrier Shop: Henry Boas, a tailor and furrier, was the first proprietor of this building in 1897. Over time, it evolved into a bustling hub for various businesses and retail shops.
- The Mascot Saloon Museum: Believed to have been built around March 1898, this structure initially served as transportation offices. By 1899, it was transformed into the Mascotte Saloon. When Skagway officially became “dry” in 1916, it underwent further transformations, serving as a drugstore and various other enterprises. Acquired by the National Park Service in 1974, it was meticulously restored to its appearance from 1905 to 1916 and now functions as an immersive “saloon” museum.
- Verbauwhede’s Cigar Store, Confectionery, and Cribs: Over a century, more than seven different businesses have operated within Verbauwhede’s cluster of buildings. Yet, the structures largely retain their original appearance from the Klondike Gold Rush era of 1897-1898. Their diverse history includes homes, famously known as “cribs” for prostitutes, a cigar store, lodging, retail shops, general businesses, and even a gas station.
- Hern Liquor Store and Pacific Clipper Line Office: During the Gold Rush, this building initially housed the Pacific Clipper Line Office. It later became an integral part of the Mascot Saloon complex and also operated as a liquor store.
- Jeff Smith’s Parlor Museum: One of Skagway’s most infamous and prominent buildings, Jeff Smith’s Parlor Museum is inextricably linked to the notorious outlaw Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith. It stands as a powerful reminder of the town’s lawless early days.
Conclusion: Skagway’s Enduring Legacy
From the ambitious vision of William Moore to the chaotic influx of gold-seekers, the reign of Soapy Smith, and the transformative power of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad, Skagway, Alaska, has lived through a dramatic and pivotal chapter in American history. Today, this charming town transcends its status as a mere historical relic; it is a vibrant community that lovingly preserves its past while embracing its future as a premier tourist destination. Visitors can walk the same wooden boardwalks as the stampeders, explore meticulously restored buildings, and ride the historic railway that carved its path through the mountains. Skagway offers an unparalleled opportunity to immerse oneself in the spirit of the Klondike Gold Rush, experiencing firsthand the triumphs and trials that shaped this remarkable Alaskan outpost. Its enduring legacy as a gateway to adventure and a keeper of history ensures that the tales of Skagway, Alaska, will continue to echo through time.
